P2A00 - A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (bank 1 sensor 1)

jwick

Haven't done the intake check yet but I went ahead and logged considering I was in the car waiting for it to cool down enough to turn it off.

Seems like everything is in order except the heater correction. Bank 1 is running 25% lower than bank 2. I just replaced the O2 sensor less than two tanks of gas ago. Is it possible the additional heat from the turbo, which is only a foot away (physical distance, flow piping its probably 18"), is causing the drop in heater temp on that side?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Jordo!

In don't think so -- that's all based on a wire's voltage for a wire dedicated to warming up the sensor.

The heat could be killing the wire itself tho and causing misreads -- what are the values for each bank? Lower values mean the sensor is getting up to temp quickly (unless its a misread), higher values mean it can't maintain operating temps.

Are the O2 voltages and AFR'd different for each bank too?

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jwick

Bank 1 is 28.8 and bank 2 is 36.

AFRs are basic spot on and match the innovate. Which parameter is AFR voltage as I'm not sure I logged that one?

The wiring I pulled out, which had no heat protection, looked perfect. I wrapped the whole sensor cable in thermo-tec sleeve before I put the new one in so I don't see how heat could be an issue. I also have the crossover turbo piping header wrapped and the turbo bagged. I don't think its heat on the wires.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Jordo!

I think both those values are within range.

You want to log MAS A/F -B1 (V), MAS A/F -B2 (V), A/F WB-B1 (V), A/F WB-B2 (V), A/F ADJ-B1, and A/F ADJ-B2. I'd also log INJ PULSE-B1 (ms) and INJ PULSE-B2 (ms).

It's also worth logging MAF voltage for both banks just to confirm you don't have something wonky going on that far upstream.

Unless you have a specific physical symptom where you can narrow down when the problem crops up (e.g., stumbling at idle), once up to normal operating water and oil temps, I would try datalogging at idle, low load/cruise, and maybe one pull to redline in 2nd gear.

Unless the way things are plumbed for the turbo are causing Bank 1 to just suck more air than Bank 2 (it's possible -- and if so, then you'd need to apply fuel correction to Bank 1 cylinders via uprev tune), it could be a bad sensor, a vac leak, sticking injectors, or a fouled or cracked spark plug -- in other words, un-metered air slipping in, failing injectors, or a bad plug can all result in a lean condition, or at least cause the ECU to think you're running lean.

The code you got points to bad O2, but really it just means that the bank stays leaner than targeted longer than it should, so any of the aforementioned could cause that.

The datalog (as well as inspecting for vac leaks and checking out the spark plugs) should help clarify -- good luck!

EDIT: Also, yes, it's a bit like the random misfire code -- you can get this code and not have any actual issues, meaning its a detection logic problem, possibly aggravated by changing things around for the turbo. If everything looks good, all values are in range, no loss of power or evidence of knock, then I agree -- just switch it off. Definitely confirm all is good first, tho'.

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