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How much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand?

Originally Posted by phunk 85ft lbs should be good to go. Perhaps they raised the torque specs or changed material of their standard studs to allow more torque? Because I

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Old 08-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
85ft lbs should be good to go. Perhaps they raised the torque specs or changed material of their standard studs to allow more torque? Because I am pretty sure that the stud threads and length and everything are the same as the DE arent they? Its been many years, its just burned into my brain that all the 2003-2004 DE builds were blowing headgaskets with the normal ones and then it became a non-issue when we all went to 1/2" threads.
Charles. I still haven't had time to measure the studs to get you an answer sorry but I do believe they changed to their ARP 2000 grade material for the studs so that could be where the much higher allowable torque specs are coming from. both my mains and heads were torqued 3 equal stages @ 85
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Old 10-31-2014, 06:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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So, getting back to topic - how much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand? 16,17 psi ?

Mine block is 9.0:1, arps l19, without e85 or water/meth injection.

Isn't the stock intake plenum the max limiter of boost we can go with?
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Old 10-31-2014, 07:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So, getting back to topic - how much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand? 16,17 psi ?



Mine block is 9.0:1, arps l19, without e85 or water/meth injection.



Isn't the stock intake plenum the max limiter of boost we can go with?

That's not a question that can be answered without a lot more info. 25 psi out of a tiny turbo is a lot less air than 25 psi out of a large one. The motor may hold up fine with 15 psi out of a gt28 and explode at 15 psi out of a gt42.
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Old 10-31-2014, 07:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Diabel View Post
So, getting back to topic - how much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand? 16,17 psi ?

Mine block is 9.0:1, arps l19, without e85 or water/meth injection.

Isn't the stock intake plenum the max limiter of boost we can go with?
It's all R&D at this point. No one knows. **** none of us actually know where the stock block limits are yet.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.
What would you recommend upgrading for the drivetrain? Eg. Clutch (which brand is best suited for high torque spikes), driveshaft, differential (I plan on an OS giken, but any suggestions?), gearbox, etc.

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.
Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 450ishwhp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)
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Old 11-04-2014, 12:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 480whp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)
Yup I have 370whp and I'm running out of traction need to get better tires. 500+ whp is pretty useless on these cars unless you want to go a bazillion mph.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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But see he's a 7AT, where are you going ro get the valvebody to help your tanny hold all that torque??? As far as I've read through here our 7At tranny can only hold up to 400 torque and that's pushing it if it was on a good tune? Unless I missed something please elaborate as I too plan on going boosted...Btw between ID's and Bosch injectors whoch would you go with and what about Deatschwerks??? I plan on going with 1000cc for E85..
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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But see he's a 7AT, where are you going ro get the valvebody to help your tanny hold all that torque??? As far as I've read through here our 7At tranny can only hold up to 400 torque and that's pushing it if it was on a good tune? Unless I missed something please elaborate as I too plan on going boosted...Btw between ID's and Bosch injectors whoch would you go with and what about Deatschwerks??? I plan on going with 1000cc for E85..
Bosch is who designs the cartridge for both Injector Dynamics and Fuel Injector Clinic. IIRC each company only merely designs their own spray nozzle if I were you I would go with one of the two. They are top dogs in the injector market ID being flow balanced to 1-2% and FICs being balanced to no more than 3%.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am running 13PSI peak (settles in around 12.5 under most scenarios). I had to upgrade to the CJM return fuel system to be able to support fueling at that boost (the stock system would drop ~15psi under boost). Car has been running great. Nissan did right with these engines in my book.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My Built 4.5L has already seen 30+ PSI... Then again my motor costs more than a new Z...
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My Built 4.5L has already seen 30+ PSI... Then again my motor costs more than a new Z...
Since your talking about it. How much boost have you pushed?
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The Stock intake manifold is going to start to be questionable around 800rwhp... Also boost is going to be relative to each build the turbos on the build and supporting mods.

However, if you are comparing block to block I know the regular built GTM Motors and ones built by Speed 4 Sale have handled deep into the 20+ psi range.

If you go with one of the more built motors like mine then you will need to be looking at other supporting mods to truly take full advantage of their capabilities. for example I run a GTR intake Manifold, I have built Heads and etc...
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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yea you have to know what you want out of your car
track car
drag car
drift car
street car

For me its all about the street car life and 600-700rwhp will have me killing most cars i come across on the street

i do the drag strip maybe 3times a year and this car is my summer car so that hp level will work great for me.

small example last weekend i pulled on a 2013 gtr in 4th gear having him only jump pass me as i shifted into 5th gear (paddle shift wtw)
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