How much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand?

Arrvaxx

How much is it going to cost you for build parts and install?

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phunk

Boost your stock engine first. Get it tuned well and stop at 550-600rwhp. Done right, it will last. If doesn't last, its very likely that whoever did it wasn't going to have better results from a built engine either. Except you would have spent twice as much and not had your car for 3 times as long just to end up with an empty roller and boxes of parts. Yes there are exceptions to every word I say, but we all know not to plan on being an exception.

Use the boosted stock engine as your "feeler" before you dive into the deep end. Your experience through this will help you make better decisions on your full build if *IF* you still think you need more power.

The 370z is no GT-R... past 600rwhp starts to get a little pointless unless you are going to make commitments towards traction that take away from why you purchased a Z-car rather than a Mustang to begin with.

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phunk

CSF Competition Radiator - OK
Methanol Injection - Go E85 if you can
EcuTek/Uprev Tune - OK, not like you have any other options. The real decision is "whos gonna tune it?"
Greddy High-Capacity Oil pan - OK
ARP Head Studs - L19 only or dont bother, standard ARP studs torque limit is too low
Cosworth Head Gaskets - OK, i didnt even know they had HR/VHR gaskets
Darton sleves - Never do this to a VQ, it only introduces room for error to fix a problem nobody has
Wiseco pistons - OK
Carillo/Eagle rods - Carillo OK, Eagle probably OK but scarey
ID/Bosch injectors - OK
Brian Crower Stroker Kit - Pointless
CJM Fuel pump - OK, so long as its large enough for your power
Fuel system - OK
Return fuel system - OK
Valve body upgrades - I pretend the 7AT doesnt exist so I have no opinion what to do with it.
Billet crankshaft - Waste of money
New spring and retainers - Consult JWT what to do with the VVEL heads based on your goals
Fuel pump voltage stablizer - I assume you mean upgraded wiring to the pump? If so, that is good and should be done for anything larger than a 255.

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jwick

Phunk dropping knowledge FTW!

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Nuc370z

Thanks phunk! Sadly, I can't find any E85 stations in Washington, the highest octane we have here is 93-95 octane for "premium" fuel.

phunk

A new VQ37VHR is $6000 from Courtesy Nissan (Complete). A short block is $3600.

I dont think I would bother putting a new stock one in if I blew the engine, but I also would not build an engine until attempting to exceed the power the stock is capable of.

GT-R engine swap is out of the question as far as realistically... its much too expensive, nothing bolts up including the transmission, its a lot taller and might not even clear the hood... definitely not the coveted strut tower bar, LOL. The GT-R engine tends to have rods fail before 700awhp anyway, making it almost pointless unless doing a full build on it before shoe-horning it in.

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37winner

Why is everyone going with E85? Why not just get C16?

So people actually got the GTR manifold upgrade on our cars? Can we buy the hardware now? Or was this a one time offer only?

phunk

E85 is less than $3 a gallon and available at gas stations in many areas in the USA. What is c16 pulling these days? 12+ a gallon? As far as ease of availability and cost, c16 doesn't make it into the same conversation as e85. Here in the Chicago burbs, an e85 pump is never more than 15-20 min away. You can very realistically run e85 full time... And I have for 3 years, nothing but e85 in my Z.

That cars gtr manifold conversion was done by gtm. Either a prototype or final cast piece, I doubt anyone knows for sure. Call them up and ask if they will sell you one.

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Nissan370

cost me $8700.00 to have my motor built and installed.
i call it as said before peace of mind i can beat the hell out of it all day with out that please dont blow in the back of my mind. but i drive like an old lady going to church most of the time

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370z vsr motorsports single turbo/built motor 9.1cr 525rwhp/450rwtq @ 10.5psi (stock maf maxed out)

jcosta79

As long as you can keep pre-detonation from occurring, you can boost an engine as much as you want. That's not nearly as easy as it sounds though.

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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

Rid3_FaM0uS

Charles while I fully respect your knowledge I must argue your statement that anything less than L19s are sub par. There has been NO proven evidence that the torque on the head studs is insufficient to prevent head lift and in most cases it was caused because people don't know how to properly use the ARP lube and/or use oil instead. I HAVE however read where the L19s(durning long term usage ie non race/drag motors that are frequently torn apart) are causing corrosion issues in aluminum blocks due to the material they are made of!

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Always under construction. . .

phunk

it goes way back. it was a major problem with DE's and effected all the early builds. Guys were chasing all kinds of non-existent issues like boiling coolant etc trying to figure out why it was happening. Some were even going so far as replacing the coolant plugs in the head with giant allen bolts and torquing them down to create pressure on the headgaskets between the cylinders (LOL). Eventually everyone went to 1/2" headstuds, boom, problem solved. Until the L19s came out which allowed getting real torque on the head studs without drilling and tapping the block.

I forget, what is the torque spec on the standard ARP? 65-75lb ft? Thats not going to cut it. At least, it didnt on my 350z. Made it about 5-6 blocks from the dyno. Then I swapped the block for one that was drilled and tapped for 1/2" studs, and now we are about 10 years since that engine went in the car and its still doing great! So, I like to get about 90-95ft lb on the headstuds (with moly lube).

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Rid3_FaM0uS

I just finished installing mine here about 4 days ago and they call for 3 equal steps to 85ft-lbs. I didn't feel that was too bad I could most definitely understand concern if it were only 65ft-lb though! God yes. Iirc the ones I installed are indeed half inch now ill look into that though to make sure I'm not just blowing smoke out my @ss to you!

On topic; OP I must agree with my man Charles though approach boosting your factory block. Hell I would still be on my factory block had I had a competent tune done. After having rebuild both my DE and VHR blocks now I can tell you there are several stout improvements in our block. I can assure you technology in both the bottom and top end of the block in our car has definitely been improved.

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Always under construction. . .

phunk

85ft lbs should be good to go. Perhaps they raised the torque specs or changed material of their standard studs to allow more torque? Because I am pretty sure that the stud threads and length and everything are the same as the DE arent they? Its been many years, its just burned into my brain that all the 2003-2004 DE builds were blowing headgaskets with the normal ones and then it became a non-issue when we all went to 1/2" threads.

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Wattles

My built engine was a big investment, but siting at nearly 600whp at 13lbs boost on 91 octagon fuel is very nice. It makes me comfortable I can beat on the engine on hot hot days without worry.
When I upgrade my fuel system to deal with any starvation I will push her higher to 18ish. 650-700whp should be fun.

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2012 G37 IPL 7AT | GTM Stage 1 Long Block | GTM Stage 1 Garett TT | Blitz SBC typeR Boost Controller | GTM Stage 4 Transmission | Tial BOV | Fast Intentions exhaust | GTM 8qt Oil Pan | 583whp/484trq @ 13psi