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Originally Posted by jwick I'm not sure. If we had the harness I'm sure you could splice any sender into it. Best I know it's just sending voltage but it
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04-22-2014, 12:48 PM
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#1 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
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Quote:
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04-27-2014, 06:42 PM
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Last edited by jwick; 04-27-2014 at 11:15 PM. |
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04-27-2014, 05:20 PM
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
 
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... got mine installed this weekend. Looks pretty good in there ... I ditched the little plate as opposed to grinding the tab off. One thing I notice is after sitting all night the gauge always reads zero ... starts right up and I see no leaks. When idling it reads about 40-42.
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Last edited by sixpax; 04-27-2014 at 05:23 PM. |
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05-28-2014, 11:25 AM
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#8 (permalink) |
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try to keep the tape or putty away from the first thread though when you do it so it can't break down in the fitting and plug one of your injectors
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05-28-2014, 11:26 AM
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston
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05-28-2014, 01:40 PM
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
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Oh, and partly on-topic, for those who didnt know... stop using teflon tape on AN flare fittings! AN flares seal on the 37 degree flare, not the threads. AN O-Ring fittings seal on the o-ring against the receiving chamfer. AN washer fittings seal on the washer. Basically, straight threads = no tape, and tapered threads = tape. I am trying and cannot think of any application where straight threads are expected to provide the seal... and if the threads are not expected to seal, then no need for thread sealant.
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Last edited by phunk; 05-28-2014 at 01:43 PM. |
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05-28-2014, 03:28 PM
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#11 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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Just got off the phone with Charles, awesome guy to talk with made me want to spend more money. Just FYI they do not have any raw billet mounts till next week. They have plenty of anodized ones.
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05-28-2014, 04:58 PM
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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it should actually have 52 psi 100% of the time if you are not running a return fuel system.
if you have upgraded the fuel pump, it wouldnt be strange to see a little pressure spike at idle. if the idle pressure spike is really high, there are ways to correct it. A spike of up to 6psi or so at idle I would ignore since the o2 feedback will be able to handle this. Past that, I would consider making some modifications if there are issues with consistency in idle A/F. it also wouldnt be strange to see pressure fall a few psi towards redline on boosted cars as restrictions in the factory plumbing start to become noticable. Since the regulator is before these restrictions, the regulator doesnt see the pressure drop or react to it. This is one of the reasons for a RFS and putting the regulator up front. More than 4-5psi of fuel pressure drop is where i would strongly consider upgrading the fuel system. Fuel pressure drop means you have reached the edge of the existing fuel system, and the edge is unpredictable and inconsistent, and some days the drop could be quite greater than others and start causing big problems in the A/F ratios near redline.
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Last edited by phunk; 05-28-2014 at 05:00 PM. |
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05-28-2014, 05:35 PM
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#14 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Ok so got the gauge installed. Here's what I'm seeing on the first run.
Idle/cruising car warm - 4.3-4.4 kPa (62 - 64 psi) Idle/cruising car cold - 5ish kPa (72 psi) Boosting car warm - 3.5 - 3.8 kPa (51 - 55 psi) It appears I'm consistently running 10psi high |
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05-17-2015, 10:21 PM
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
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