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However... youre asking a lot of a tire. I literally do not recommend any 305/30/19 for a TT 370z But if you must, go as aggressive competition grade as you

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Old 09-09-2014, 11:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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However... youre asking a lot of a tire. I literally do not recommend any 305/30/19 for a TT 370z But if you must, go as aggressive competition grade as you are willing. I dont think you will find any of them to hook up first or second gear. The best I ran in that size was the Toyo R888 but it seemed like it lost a lot of its grip after a few weeks.

No more rear camber for you, dial it all out![/QUOTE]

So what do you recommend?
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Hotrodz View Post
So what do you recommend?
The largest stickiest tires on the smallest diameter wheels you are willing to run, with the least amount of negative camber as you are willing to accept!

Attached is an image of the only thing I have found that will hook up first gear, and even then it takes a little heat in them. You have to change the rear brakes, and the handling isnt very good, and the VDC and ABS systems do not work. So its just a question of how bad you want to hook up and what you are willing to sacrifice when you want to do it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by COSMO View Post
Hey Charles I'm now looking for some tires that will help me hookup in the rear. Any recommendations for 305/30/19? No drag radials and something that is not noisy.. Considering ps2's..


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Old 09-09-2014, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ya true, for non-competition tires I like the RE11. They really held great in the twisties for a "normal" tires.

Most people I know with 500+ rwhp in their cars have multiple sets of wheels and tires... like personally I have 3 sets for the rear. Without AWD, its almost impossible to avoid.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Ya true, for non-competition tires I like the RE11. They really held great in the twisties for a "normal" tires.

Most people I know with 500+ rwhp in their cars have multiple sets of wheels and tires... like personally I have 3 sets for the rear. Without AWD, its almost impossible to avoid.
This is very true. I have much less than 500 and I felt the need for 4 sets.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Those style of tires will also put a ton more stress on the whole drive train as well. Just saying.

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Old 09-10-2014, 03:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Actually its the other way around. Not that there is really anything to worry about besides the axles anyway.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The race logic TC is does not work at the drag strip. My car ran slower times with it.
But the car ran straight as an arrow.
there is no launch control for a 7 AT with that system.

I emailed them about this
If I ever get my built motor from GTM ,I will post how it works with the stage 3 set up.

" IT COULD BE A VERY LONG TIME TO GET THE MOTOR FROM GTM".
15 MONTHS AND STILL WAITING.

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Old 09-10-2014, 07:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Race Logic is an awesome system but I agree its not for the drag strip.

It doesnt actually increase traction, it just reduces power to dial back wheel slip. Sort of funny when you think about it... spending all that money to make more horsepower, then spending more money to buy a system that turns it back down, lol.

If you want to go faster, youve got to increase actual traction.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Race Logic is an awesome system but I agree its not for the drag strip.

It doesnt actually increase traction, it just reduces power to dial back wheel slip. Sort of funny when you think about it... spending all that money to make more horsepower, then spending more money to buy a system that turns it back down, lol.

If you want to go faster, you've got to increase actual traction.
Yes it is a bit ironic, isn't it ... ... Spinning the wheels and going sideways doesn't increase forward progress.

The (digital) Race Logic does have an available option that will allow you to increase the max slip rate from 25% to 50%.
Combine that with setting the initial(TC) engagement to 3500 rpm or so and you have a safety buffer that will allow you to still be aggressive and will react quicker than you in an emergency situation ... at least in theory.
That was one of the things I wanted to try before the motor went poof.

It still all boils down to knowing your car and maximizing available traction in any given circumstance.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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From the GTM site:

Nismo Final Drive 3.917 as opposed to OEM 4.08 (MT)

https://www.gtmotorsports.com/produc...cat=270&page=2

Better transfer of power to the pavement / traction ?
Anybody have experience with this ?
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z&I View Post
From the GTM site:

Nismo Final Drive 3.917 as opposed to OEM 4.08 (MT)

https://www.gtmotorsports.com/produc...cat=270&page=2

Better transfer of power to the pavement / traction ?
Anybody have experience with this ?
the factory final drive is 3.69, 3.9 would be moving to a smaller final drive gear and worse for traction with boost. what you want is the 350z final drive (3.53) or the automatic final drive (3.3).
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the factory final drive is 3.69, 3.9 would be moving to a smaller final drive gear and worse for traction with boost. what you want is the 350z final drive (3.53) or the automatic final drive (3.3).
Will check in to this ... THANKS ! ... Ahhhhh : At last !!!
Makes perfect sense to go to a different ratio when drastically increasing the power... just didn't know where to go.

...wuz under the impression that my '09 6MT was 4.08 Final Drive ...
need to double check my info.
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the factory final drive is 3.69, 3.9 would be moving to a smaller final drive gear and worse for traction with boost. what you want is the 350z final drive (3.53) or the automatic final drive (3.3).
Hello esfourteen

Did a little more legwork ...

Checked the Nissan stats for the 370z and you are right ... 3.69 is OEM factory final drive.
Here comes the curve ball ...

After having owned the car for about 6 months - I - (along with my mechanic) decided on the Stillen SC'r for more streetable power.

Some wheel spinning later thanks to the added HP ... we decided to upgrade the OEM hydraulic LSD to the Quaife 1.5 LSD.

The supposed final drive was to be 4.08 ... and that's what I thought it was for 3 years even tho' I wasn't able to detect any discernable difference in actual use.

Turns out that the OEM final drive gears hadn't been changed at all, and the car was still OEM at 3.69.

I wish I would have know this long long ago.

Thanks for your input - it gave me that Eureka moment of understanding.
I will now see how the car runs with the built motor and new SC'r.

First need to know the shift points especially at the max in 4th when I get it to the track again.

Then decide on the final drive based on what the car does at the track ...

Hopefully I might be able to do that this season.

Again, thanks for looking deeper in to my question and coming up with the answer I needed.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If I ever get my engine from GTM I will be ordering the fuel system that we talked about a few months ago from you.

you are a great guy to talk to about fuel systems ..

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