Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.
 

Sorry guys but it seems my thread my closed due to being off topic. I have yet to read any thread on this forum that actually stays on topic but hey rules are rules. And I am guessing it was too much PR on gtm since they are a paid sponser here.

I am planning on trying to work out a deal on this other motor tomorrow and will try to keep everyone posted because I will need feedback and opinions on my future options so lets please try and stay on topic. (SPOHN)
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i mentioned in your other thread, but if you (or anyone else) is looking for a short block to build, I have one available.

If u stay stock block it's fine you're just leaving potential for more power on the table.
Honestly if u don't have or know a good shop then stay stock. Safest bet is stock.

Hey Cosmogirl. I tried sending you a PM but it says your box is full.

I got the contact information for the guys who built my heads and block. If you want that info I'll relay it your way.

As long as you're content around the 500 whp level with a good tune, most people don't seem to be having any issues at all with the stock block.

i just had my new tune cuz of new 3" exhaust at Vinny Ten Racing in NY last sat and i'm putting out 518hp/ 407 tq and i'm auto @ 10psi.. Old setup with stillen exhaust netted me around 485hp and that was for 5 months. This is on stock block with GTM TT stage 2

With those with built engines, who did the build for you? Anyone happen to know any good shops in California who can tackle an engine build?

Cosmo, are you still sticking with the stock block? Or are you going to build it after you get it? Or haven't decided yet?

To be honest I really don't know yet.

Cosmo, you know I've got no issues with you, but I'm really confused as to why the fact your motor let go is a GTM issue. By your own admission, you had a broken or improperly set up boost controller and inadvertantly ran 20+psi on your stock block. You didn't get the boost controller from GTM, so where is their responsibility?

I've got my own issues with the way they run their business, but this one seems like it squarely falls under the category of "not their problem".

As far as your motor, you should throw the replacement block in as-is. Build your busted block over time. Buy a set of pistons, rods and bearings yourself and find a good local machine shop. Have everything balanced with the clutch and flywheel on. Throw it back in with some more fuel, turn up the boost and aim for 600whp. Personally, I wouldn't even touch the heads. There's too much VVEL black magic going on in there for me to feel comfortable having a shop take it apart, work on the heads and put everything back together correctly.

Sent you a pm..

Picking up a engine hoist tomorrow off of craigslist, trying to find a engine stand now. Somehow I feel I am making progress... lol

Ok so who knows how the a/c lines disconnect or is there an easy disconnect on the 370z? When I did the motor on my 350z I had to take it somewhere to have the line redone is the only reason I ask...

If you're still working on it this evening I can take a look. There's got to be an easy way to take them off.

6 Piece Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool

Line Disconnect Tool | AutoZone.com

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...t-intakes.html

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.