Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

Chuck33079 · 11-26-2013, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

To be honest I really don't know yet. At this time I am more concerned about the moderators protecting gtm from negative feedback since they are a paid sponsor. Now I am sure when spohn see's this he will go and tell the moderators but isn't this what this forum supposed to be about, the good and bad experiences we all share from venders and parts for the cars we love? I enjoy the people on this forum and value feedback that everyone takes the time to give to help others but when it is used to protect venders from negative feedback it cry's politics. Based on that note I may even donate some money today...

Cosmo, you know I've got no issues with you, but I'm really confused as to why the fact your motor let go is a GTM issue. By your own admission, you had a broken or improperly set up boost controller and inadvertantly ran 20+psi on your stock block. You didn't get the boost controller from GTM, so where is their responsibility?

I've got my own issues with the way they run their business, but this one seems like it squarely falls under the category of "not their problem".

As far as your motor, you should throw the replacement block in as-is. Build your busted block over time. Buy a set of pistons, rods and bearings yourself and find a good local machine shop. Have everything balanced with the clutch and flywheel on. Throw it back in with some more fuel, turn up the boost and aim for 600whp. Personally, I wouldn't even touch the heads. There's too much VVEL black magic going on in there for me to feel comfortable having a shop take it apart, work on the heads and put everything back together correctly.

esfourteen · 11-26-2013, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Buy a set of pistons, rods and bearings yourself and find a good local machine shop. Have everything balanced with the clutch and flywheel on. Throw it back in with some more fuel, turn up the boost and aim for 600whp. Personally, I wouldn't even touch the heads. There's too much VVEL black magic going on in there for me to feel comfortable having a shop take it apart, work on the heads and put everything back together correctly.

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.

Chuck33079 · 11-26-2013, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.

COSMO · 11-26-2013, 09:47 AM

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the useful information today on the phone. I hope others will use this thread as a tool if and when it may be needed down the road. Pictures will be posted as soon as I get a replacement block.

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.

hollywood6973 · 11-27-2013, 03:18 PM

esforteen Whats a ball
park cost to build a motor like that?

esfourteen · 12-13-2013, 09:56 AM

in case you missed it from page 1, I would do everything on the list if you can

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.

Cell · 12-13-2013, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen

in case you missed it from page 1, I would do everything on the list if you can

Cost to purchase that entire list?

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11-27-2013, 03:18 PM	#5 (permalink)
hollywood6973 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: pittsburgh Posts: 14 Drives: 2013z sport touring Rep Power: 14	esforteen Whats a ball park cost to build a motor like that?