Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

COSMO · 03-14-2014, 09:09 AM

Hey chuck since you have seen the amount that needs to be cut and trimmed to get the maximum flow of those manifolds going to the turbo's what would you recommend to use because in the area it is Very think. I hit it yesterday a little with the tungsten bit and it didn't do much at all...

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Are you reffering to a sureflow pump and if so since the pump is pre-turbo the heat shouldn't be an issue going through the pump. Also do you think it would affect the thermostat ?

No effect on the thermostat as far as I can figure. Not sure on the pump, I've farmed out the thinking on this one. I'll install what he tells me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Hey chuck since you have seen the amount that needs to be cut and trimmed to get the maximum flow of those manifolds going to the turbo's what would you recommend to use because in the area it is Very think. I hit it yesterday a little with the tungsten bit and it didn't do much at all...

A tungsten carbide bit wouldn't cut cast iron? Odd. That's what I've always used with good success.

COSMO · 03-14-2014, 09:40 AM

Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...

Problem found. You need a cutting tool with more nuts. Hell, Harbor Freight will have a $20 air die grinder that'll work well enough to do the job. The Dremel is for final finishing, not hogging out that kind of metal. You're also using plenty of cutting oil, right?

Rusty · 03-14-2014, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Problem found. You need a cutting tool with more nuts. Hell, Harbor Freight will have a $20 air die grinder that'll work well enough to do the job. The Dremel is for final finishing, not hogging out that kind of metal. You're also using plenty of cutting oil, right?

Yea, you need an air powered 1/4" die grinder with a couple of large football shaped burr bits for roughing. Then a couple of smaller diameter burr bits for finishing. Ball shaped. If you want to go deep into the manifold. Then you need burr bits with a 6" shaft on them. You'll burn up the Dremel on the first port you try to do. I get my die grinders from Sears. I burn them up, and they give me a new one.

Local Sears store has them on stock to boot.

COSMO · 03-15-2014, 09:51 PM

Just wanted to thank rusty for the heads up on the die grinder, so far its working great. After further measuring the gtm exhaust manifolds the hole is 1/4 smaller then the flange where it connects to the turbo slowing the air flow down. Will take some pics tomorrow and show my progress. I will wait and send these to vsr because if they can fabricate these I want you guys to have the openings the same size to allow more exhaust flow going to the turbos. Stay tuned!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Yea, you need an air powered 1/4" die grinder with a couple of large football shaped burr bits for roughing. Then a couple of smaller diameter burr bits for finishing. Ball shaped. If you want to go deep into the manifold. Then you need burr bits with a 6" shaft on them. You'll burn up the Dremel on the first port you try to do. I get my die grinders from Sears. I burn them up, and they give me a new one.

Local Sears store has them on stock to boot.

Rusty · 03-16-2014, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Just wanted to thank rusty for the heads up on the die grinder, so far its working great. After further measuring the gtm exhaust manifolds the hole is 1/4 smaller then the flange where it connects to the turbo slowing the air flow down. Will take some pics tomorrow and show my progress. I will wait and send these to vsr because if they can fabricate these I want you guys to have the openings the same size to allow more exhaust flow going to the turbos. Stay tuned!!

You're welcome.

G37sHKS · 03-14-2014, 10:57 AM

Wait, what water lines? should we modify the water lines and ditch the manual instruction that came with GTM? whats wrong with water lines that GTM supplied?

And wtf is up with this replicated HKS manifold. Im a huge fan of HKS I don't not wish to put anything replicated on my damn car especially when it comes to HKS.
I hate you Charles, you know all this but you didn't warned us?!!!

GTM? George? Sam? Pablo? Is that true??

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

Wait, what water lines? should we modify the water lines and ditch the manual instruction that came with GTM? whats wrong with water lines that GTM supplied?

They daisy-chain the water lines to the turbos so the "cool" inlet on the second turbo is seeing coolant that's already been heated up from the first turbo.

G37sHKS · 03-14-2014, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

They daisy-chain the water lines to the turbos so the "cool" inlet on the second turbo is seeing coolant that's already been heated up from the first turbo.

So all we need is Y pipe connector and problem is fixed?
Why GTM didn't monitor this issue may I ask?

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

So all we need is Y pipe connector and problem is fixed? :

I thought about running separate lines, but the guy who built my car (and lots more turbo Zs) says it would be better solved by increasing flow. The coolant wants to take the path of least resisitance, which is the larger lines the turbo line comes off of. He's saying a pump on the first turbo line will take care of the issue. I'll find out soon enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

Why GTM didn't monitor this issue may I ask?

G37sHKS · 03-14-2014, 11:03 AM

I think Im using oil to cool the turbo down in my system.

Edit: Cosmo, its gonna be useless to lose money and buy a new kit. You already got good turbos all you need is a proper manifold and you're done.

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

I think Im using oil to cool the turbo down in my system.

If it's a GTM kit, you're using both. Garretts use oil and coolant.

G37sHKS · 03-14-2014, 11:24 AM

So to fix this in short, you keep the same routing that GTM supplied but with larger lines and a pump to push the water?

Chuck33079 · 03-14-2014, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

So to fix this in short, you keep the same routing that GTM supplied but with larger lines and a pump to push the water?

He doesn't even think you need new lines. We're going to just put the pump in and see if increasing flow solves the problem.

03-14-2014, 10:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
G37sHKS A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dubai Posts: 1,183 Drives: 09 G37S Coupe 7AT Rep Power: 20	Wait, what water lines? should we modify the water lines and ditch the manual instruction that came with GTM? whats wrong with water lines that GTM supplied? And wtf is up with this replicated HKS manifold. Im a huge fan of HKS I don't not wish to put anything replicated on my damn car especially when it comes to HKS. I hate you Charles, you know all this but you didn't warned us?!!! GTM? George? Sam? Pablo? Is that true?? __________________ G37 BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION

03-14-2014, 11:03 AM	#12 (permalink)
G37sHKS A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dubai Posts: 1,183 Drives: 09 G37S Coupe 7AT Rep Power: 20	I think Im using oil to cool the turbo down in my system. Edit: Cosmo, its gonna be useless to lose money and buy a new kit. You already got good turbos all you need is a proper manifold and you're done. __________________ G37 BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION

03-14-2014, 11:24 AM	#14 (permalink)
G37sHKS A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dubai Posts: 1,183 Drives: 09 G37S Coupe 7AT Rep Power: 20	So to fix this in short, you keep the same routing that GTM supplied but with larger lines and a pump to push the water? __________________ G37 BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION

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03-14-2014, 09:09 AM	#1 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 19	Hey chuck since you have seen the amount that needs to be cut and trimmed to get the maximum flow of those manifolds going to the turbo's what would you recommend to use because in the area it is Very think. I hit it yesterday a little with the tungsten bit and it didn't do much at all...

03-14-2014, 09:40 AM	#3 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 19	Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...