Heat soak - vented hood options that are not "louvered"

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

I've heard that, in addition to seals inside the motor need some of the conditioners in coolant to stay in good condition. Water wetter and similar additives claim to have seal conditioners and corrosion inhibitors so you can run water only, but ill always run at least a little coolant just to be sure.

Alstann · 11-10-2013, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Uprev adjusts the temp they turn on. The GTM fans move a lot more air than the stock ones.

Alstann, you're right on the vents being the best way to get hot air out of the engine bay. If there were a vented hood on the market I liked from a functional/aesthetic standpoint I'd start with that. I'm just not a huge fan of the options we have on that front, so I'm going to try adding the fans to the CSF radiator I've got, lowering the fan temperature more and running less antifreeze. If that isn't enough to keep temps stable, then ill start cutting holes.

I'm right there with you on that one.

I don't know if I love any vented hood enough to warrant spending money getting one, and then even more painting it. The Seibon one is my "favorite," but still, I'm a clean and simple guy for cars at the moment. I wonder if there is any plastic shrouding near the windshield we can remove, to allow the trapped air to somewhat escape from the engine bay? I've never looked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

Corrosion does occur to some extent, such as mineral deposits and small amounts of rust on the aluminium. The solution is to run straight 100% distilled water, usually purchased from a grocery store. Of course, in cold climates, this is a very bad idea.

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

Not distilled. You only want distilled! Normal water, bottle, house etc all have minerals in it that will corrode stuff.

When I do 100% water plus water wetter it's really not 100%. I just drain the radiator till it stops dripping. The block, water pump etc will still have regular antifreeze in it so in the end you may have something like 90% water, 9% antifreeze and 1% water wetter.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 09:40 PM

I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area.

It should be one of those "can't do any harm" deals. If the pressure at the base if the windshield is high enough it will block any flow out. If higher than that, it will force a little cold air in. Removing/installing the seal (at least on the battery side) is fairly easy, so it would be worth a try. If it doesn't work, put the seal back on.

Aren't the HVAC intakes at the bottom of the windshield? I'd be afraid of sucking all that hot air into the cabin.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

It should be one of those "can't do any harm" deals. If the pressure at the base if the windshield is high enough it will block any flow out. If higher than that, it will force a little cold air in. Removing/installing the seal (at least on the battery side) is fairly easy, so it would be worth a try. If it doesn't work, put the seal back on.

Aren't the HVAC intakes at the bottom of the windshield? I'd be afraid of sucking all that hot air into the cabin.

It would be easy enough to test. My concern would be the air coming in at the back of the hood and slowing the air coming through the radiator. Somebody needs to go test it with some yarn and see which way the air goes.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

It would be easy enough to test. My concern would be the air coming in at the back of the hood and slowing the air coming through the radiator. Somebody needs to go test it with some yarn and see which way the air goes.

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

I'd love to know. My uneducated guess is that it'll act like a cowl induction hood on a muscle car and let air go in, but I'd love to be wrong. It would be really easy to add venting to that area if it turns out to be helpful.

dmhenderson · 11-11-2013, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

Very cool. Definitely keep us posted.

theDreamer · 11-11-2013, 07:51 AM

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider.

Hood to consider:

( Click to show/hide )

Here is an option to protect your engine bay, these are rain guards (came with my Seibon hood), which attach via a few bolts.

( Click to show/hide )

Adding those to the hood will give you the ability to block out the hood if you want to protect the engine area or even need to keep heat inside the car for winter reasons. Also giving you the option to remove quickly when you need to.
Also, I ran some early tests with the OEM hood and my stage 1 SC and will be adding a Seibon TS hood later to get a comparative results. Currently waiting to get the hood on and finish the results. OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing

Chuck33079 · 11-11-2013, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front.

That looks like exactly what we need.

MyKindaGuise · 11-11-2013, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider.

Hood to consider:

( Click to show/hide )

That is what I am looking to do with my hood. Or vents to go right over the turbo/downpipe or the header area would be useful I would think.

SouthArk370Z · 11-11-2013, 08:53 AM

Just got back from running the tattletale test. Removed the rear hood seal. Taped two pieces of twine (some fluorescent pink stuff I had hanging around, the stuff you see used on construction sites to hold a spirit level) to the back edge of the hood where the creases in the hood are and another to the wiper arm (centerline of car). Up to about 30-35 mph, they didn't move at all. Above that, they indicated that some air was going into the engine compartment.

But that may have just been turbulence. I parked and turned the A/C on to turn the radiator fan on. Engine was well warmed up (170F oil temp) but I could feel no heat coming from the rear of the hood. On inspection, I found the gap between the hood and the engine compartment is very small.

My conclusion is that removing the seal doesn't accomplish much, if anything. Off to put the seal back on.
Edit: the fasteners for the seal are not evenly spaced, so it's all but impossible to install it wrong.

Chuck33079 · 11-11-2013, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Just got back from running the tattletale test. Removed the rear hood seal. Taped two pieces of twine (some fluorescent pink stuff I had hanging around, the stuff you see used on construction sites to hold a spirit level) to the back edge of the hood where the creases in the hood are and another to the wiper arm (centerline of car). Up to about 30-35 mph, they didn't move at all. Above that, they indicated that some air was going into the engine compartment.
But that may have just been turbulence. I parked and turned the A/C on to turn the radiator fan on. Engine was well warmed up (170F oil temp) but I could feel no heat coming from the rear of the hood. On inspection, I found the gap between the hood and the engine compartment is very small.
My conclusion is that removing the seal doesn't accomplish much, if anything. Off to put the seal back on.

So it stands to reason that if we opened that gap up somehow we would be making matters worse as far as airflow is concerned? Thanks for actually testing it, too much of this is theory.

SouthArk370Z · 11-11-2013, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

So it stands to reason that if we opened that gap up somehow we would be making matters worse as far as airflow is concerned? Thanks for actually testing it, too much of this is theory.

Looks like it.

I'm rather surprised the the radiator fans wouldn't push at least a little bit of air out when parked. Where is the air going?

It would be interesting to see a similar test run with the undertray vented. But I'm not gonna hang my head out the door and look under the car while going 60 mph.

11-10-2013, 09:40 PM	#4 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

11-11-2013, 07:51 AM	#10 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4211	This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider. Hood to consider: ( Click to show/hide ) Here is an option to protect your engine bay, these are rain guards (came with my Seibon hood), which attach via a few bolts. ( Click to show/hide ) Adding those to the hood will give you the ability to block out the hood if you want to protect the engine area or even need to keep heat inside the car for winter reasons. Also giving you the option to remove quickly when you need to. Also, I ran some early tests with the OEM hood and my stage 1 SC and will be adding a Seibon TS hood later to get a comparative results. Currently waiting to get the hood on and finish the results. OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

11-11-2013, 08:53 AM	#13 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	Just got back from running the tattletale test. Removed the rear hood seal. Taped two pieces of twine (some fluorescent pink stuff I had hanging around, the stuff you see used on construction sites to hold a spirit level) to the back edge of the hood where the creases in the hood are and another to the wiper arm (centerline of car). Up to about 30-35 mph, they didn't move at all. Above that, they indicated that some air was going into the engine compartment. But that may have just been turbulence. I parked and turned the A/C on to turn the radiator fan on. Engine was well warmed up (170F oil temp) but I could feel no heat coming from the rear of the hood. On inspection, I found the gap between the hood and the engine compartment is very small. My conclusion is that removing the seal doesn't accomplish much, if anything. Off to put the seal back on. Edit: the fasteners for the seal are not evenly spaced, so it's all but impossible to install it wrong. Felix 808 likes this. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 11-11-2013 at 08:57 AM.

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