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Heat soak - vented hood options that are not "louvered"

Originally Posted by Alstann My 2c here: I think that hood venting is the way to go for serious heat soak issues. It's a uphill battle trying to fight the

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Old 11-10-2013, 06:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Alstann View Post
My 2c here:

I think that hood venting is the way to go for serious heat soak issues. It's a uphill battle trying to fight the motor by adding a larger radiator and higher CFM fan if the air is still getting trapped in the engine bay. I'd say that if you can live with the look of a louvered or vented hood, it's easily the best way to improve cooling efficiency of the car.

From a theoretical and practical standpoint, there are limits to using a combination of radiator and fan to cool a motor. One is the size aspect - larger radiator and larger fan is less space in the bay, and there is a limit to how large we can fit of both. Also, CFM doesn't necessarily mean cooler temps.

At my university, we build a small Formula-style car a competition hosted by SAE, called Formula SAE, and I'm part of the engine design team. It's a competition where universities build the car from the ground up - chassis, intake, exhaust, suspension, etc. For reference, the engine we use is a GSX-R 600cc. Google has lots of pictures of different cars - you'll get the idea if you search it. ^^

Something quite astounding that I've discovered while doing design on the cooling system is that the car (moving at an average of 30-45 mph on the track) is actually moving too FAST through the air, for achieving maximum cooling efficiency across the radiator. The solution to this problem is to design a sidepod (like the ones you see in Formula 1) that goes from small to big, back to small. This is to slow down the air. Of course, our motor is directly to the atmosphere, mounted in the rear.

The reason for this efficiency loss is as the air moves too quickly through the radiator, it builds up pressure behind and in front of the radiator, creating a boundary layer that lowers the true amount of air moving through the radiator. One might say: Why not use a higher flow fan to create a vacuum and move the air better? There are two reasons on a car: the first being that you want the air to spend a certain amount of time "inside" the radiator (not too slow where it's stopped, and not too fast that it creates the boundary layer), and second being that in most car engine bays, the bay is sealed enough that pressure builds up regardless. These speed values are different for every car, radiator design, hood design, grille design, etc.

But, of course I concede that a larger radiator and higher CFM fan usually increases cooling efficiency. I just know for a fact that venting the engine bay will, unless you are on the surface of the sun, always increase the cooling efficiency by letting nature do its work by letting heat escape. Also, with a larger radiator and larger fan, you also add weight to the car, and you change the dynamic of the water flow through the radiator, since the water pump is still stock. The reason we shoot for maximum efficiency, while still maintaining a reasonable safety factor, is literally, because racecar. Any amount of extra weight that isn't necessary in design, is making the car slower.

Also another thing to think about is that turbulent air and turbulent water through the radiator actually increases cooling efficiency.
You're failing to factor in the intercooler into that. With the additional flow restriction from the intercooler, not to mention the fact that now you're feeding hot air to the radiator, a larger radiator and a more powerful fan may just be getting you back stock efficiency.
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Do those fancy vented fenders I see all over the body/exterior section help at all?
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not one bit for underhood temps.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah we're dealing with a forced induction problem in this thread (or at least, I hope we are). Maybe I should specify that in the title.
If nothing else, this is a good discussion. Just turned out to be more complicated than I thought it'd be.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just turned out to be more complicated than I thought it'd be.
It's never that easy, especially dealing with aerodynamics and airflow.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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...and it turns out this is a non-functional scoop - ugh. Is there a hood that looks like this or the old 350z vented hood style? I've been told modifying the stock hood (even with a fantastic metalworker) is a bad idea for several reasons.

Any ideas?
if you cut a hole in your hood right where the hood scoop sits, you can technically turn a fake hood scoop into a real one
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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if you cut a hole in your hood right where the hood scoop sits, you can technically turn a fake hood scoop into a real one
Well I'd need to make sure it would be functional first. Consensus here seems to be that the scoop shown in that picture wouldn't do much (if anything)
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well I'd need to make sure it would be functional first. Consensus here seems to be that the scoop shown in that picture wouldn't do much (if anything)
It _probably_ won't do anything but it's impossible to tell for sure without doing some testing.

If the engine compartment is sealed as well as others have said, then trying to force more cool air in won't do much good. Sounds like letting the hot air out is the way to go. I like the idea of venting the undertray and exhausting the hot air under the car but don't know if it would actually work or what side-effects it might have.

Interesting discussion.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well I'd need to make sure it would be functional first. Consensus here seems to be that the scoop shown in that picture wouldn't do much (if anything)
well it should function, it will be scooping up air, how well it would function is a whole different question

honestly you're better off getting hood vents, ya it will dirty your engine bay but you wont have to worry about rain because most vented hoods come with covers for the vents
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would like to have some custom vents cut in that are akin to the old 280Z factory hood vents.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Maybe that's why I stay cool too. Forgot I put maybe 3/4 a gallon of Moore Cool racing fluid in (left over from doing my WRX) and a bottle of water wetter.

If you don't drive in the winter or live in a below 32 degree state, 100% distilled water and water wetter works nice like in my 600cc SS.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Maybe that's why I stay cool too. Forgot I put maybe 3/4 a gallon of Moore Cool racing fluid in (left over from doing my WRX) and a bottle of water wetter.
That probably has a lot to do with it. Moore Cool is good stuff. I figure 25%antifreeze 75% water and a bottle of water wetter will do fine. Houston rarely freezes, so that's not a huge concern. I still don't feel completely comfortable at 100% water. I wish someone other than Mishimoto made a lower temp thermostat. I'd like to go with a colder temp one, but I wouldn't run that one if you have it to me.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Maybe that's why I stay cool too. Forgot I put maybe 3/4 a gallon of Moore Cool racing fluid in (left over from doing my WRX) and a bottle of water wetter.

If you don't drive in the winter or live in a below 32 degree state, 100% distilled water and water wetter works nice like in my 600cc SS.
We freeze - i can't get away with that in Maryland.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It's always good to have at least some antifreeze, even say 10%, because then your coolant smells/feels/tastes a bit like coolant. Really helps with tracking down a leak, or confirming that water found somewhere in the bay is or isn't from your coolant system.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?
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