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Originally Posted by GaleForce I did it prior. Southbend stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel, 24lb i think. I didn't go with the lightest flywheel because I didn't want all

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Old 02-01-2014, 12:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GaleForce View Post
I did it prior.

Southbend stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel, 24lb i think. I didn't go with the lightest flywheel because I didn't want all the chatter. Also HD CSC and replaced the CMC. The CMC is a must. My car only had 6000 miles on it. The guys that did my clutch didn't bother changing the CMC, it failed before I got home from the shop. I ended up installing it myself and everything has been good since.

Talk to Joe @ Zspeed. His customer service is up there with Sasha's.
How was driving with a stage 3 Clutch on stock Power? Do you think CMC will fail again since it's OEM?
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How was driving with a stage 3 Clutch on stock Power? Do you think CMC will fail again since it's OEM?
The clutch is slightly stiffer than OEM. Not unbearable, it feels firm, just right. As a matter of fact, I have the RJM clutch pedal assembly in the 'same as factory' setting still. Right now the CMC is the weak link. It will likely be the first thing I check if I have issues in the future.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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bp guys, everyone upgrade there clutch prior to installing the kit? i know its a good idea, what did you put in? did you do flywheel same time?
I did mine during my install. I have a Specialty Z 6-puck clutch with Tilton Race CSC, 13lbs flywheel, 31lbs total. It's awesome. The pedal actually felt lighter with the Tilton CSC compared to the the stock one.

Shattering isn't too bad but it is a bit of a PITA in a parking lot. The low weight makes it a bit boggy at very low RPM. You definitely have to engage at a higher RPM than stock (it IS a puck type clutch after all). SRM still works but seems to overshoot and hunt for the right RPM a bit when downshifting. Idle is a bit rough and the car almost sounds like an old muscle car with cams. Higher Idle will easily fix that.

That being said, I love this clutch/flywheel combo.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Southbend Stage 3 daily with OEM flywheel. Installed well before turbo install to ensure break-in.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Southbend Stage 3 daily with OEM flywheel. Installed well before turbo install to ensure break-in.
I wont get that break in period, do to the weather here. should i dyno tune on the stock, then swap out to the clutch and do the break in?

my current stock clutch has 10.5k babied miles on it
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I wont get that break in period, do to the weather here. should i dyno tune on the stock, then swap out to the clutch and do the break in?

my current stock clutch has 10.5k babied miles on it
I would recommend dynoing with the new clutch with it broken in. Should call up project X to see what they recommend for a clutch. If I had to do it again, I would not go with southbend because of the break in period. 1000 miles to break in...

I did the BP kit install myself then brought it to project X to let them look it over. Then had them put in the new clutch and flywheel.

You probably will experience slipping with the stock clutch at 500whp.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would recommend dynoing with the new clutch with it broken in. Should call up project X to see what they recommend for a clutch. If I had to do it again, I would not go with southbend because of the break in period. 1000 miles to break in...

I did the BP kit install myself then brought it to project X to let them look it over. Then had them put in the new clutch and flywheel.

You probably will experience slipping with the stock clutch at 500whp.
pm me what they charged you for the clutch install.

this was my plan as well. install kit, then take it to them for the clutch/tune
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would recommend dynoing with the new clutch with it broken in. Should call up project X to see what they recommend for a clutch. If I had to do it again, I would not go with southbend because of the break in period. 1000 miles to break in...

I did the BP kit install myself then brought it to project X to let them look it over. Then had them put in the new clutch and flywheel.

You probably will experience slipping with the stock clutch at 500whp.

Not all clutches require a 1,000 mile break in, "ANY" full face clutch should be broke in a minimum of 500 miles, This allows the clutch material to flatten out so it will hold all of the TQ it is made to hold.

Puck style clutches can be broke in in as little as 300 miles as they are more abrasive and will seat/flatten out faster.

Kevlar clutches require a 1,000 mile break in because of the material, It is non-abrasive which will take longer to settle in, but on the up side, it doesn't wear the opposing surfaces (flywheel and pressure plate)
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I wont get that break in period, do to the weather here. should i dyno tune on the stock, then swap out to the clutch and do the break in?

my current stock clutch has 10.5k babied miles on it
I would install the new clutch and flywheel before the turbo install. Then break it in before dyno tuning the car, using the base tune. It's only 800 miles if I recall. Then giver hell on the dyno
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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800 miles, is 3 months for me LOL
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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800 miles, is 3 months for me LOL
Yeah it would have been for me too but I had some motivation to do some more driving last summer.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah it would have been for me too but I had some motivation to do some more driving last summer.

I have a feeling so will I
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I hope someone with a 7AT brings you their car so you can also offer this beautiful kit to the auto guys.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I agree with what Gale said on the stage 3 with OEM power. It's more firm but has a much better feel to it. Mine had a little bit of chatter when it was breaking in, but that is gone now.

I also had the same CMC problems. Dealer installed my clutch and ended up covering the replacement CMC under warranty. There is also a service bulletin out for our car that recommends upgrading to GTR brake fluid for the clutch. So if you have a good relationship with your dealer, there's a chance they will cover your fluid and CMC.

To my understanding, the CMC issues arise when bleeding from empty. A few people at Nissan even referred to them as one - time - use.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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When Nissan changed out my CSC they reused my CMC. I havent had any problems yet and that was around 10k miles ago. When I change my clutch out for this kit, I will replace the CMC this time though for a little peace of mind.
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