turbo vs s/c

SAM@GTM

FYI stock clutch will hold up to 560 RWHP, We have tested it twice. one with a 350HR TT and a G37 TT .

We have many customer with Twin turbo set ups and stock clutches that lasted over 20k .

Sam

Buddy Revell

Good to know. Thank for the info, Sam.

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'08 IP G37S/GTM Supercharger/20" DPE SP-5 Wheels/ARK GRIP Exhaust

toner123

Thank you Sam. When i said this everyone wanted to flame/bash me. After I gave proof i was still getting smart remarks. If you do the TT install at a shop and the clutch at the same time. The labor charge for the clutch is going to be exactly the same as if they did it then or a year later. Unless you got a really cool shop that will discount it, because replacing the clutch does not require the removal of the engine. I said this plenty of times yet people keep saying to do it at the same time like it is going to be cheeper for you. Also why replace a good part? The stock clutch is able to handle it for a while and you already paid for it when you bought the car, so why not get your worth out of it.
Frank

xbigb4ller69z

how about the slave cylinder?

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Eibach pro kit/ Stillen sway bars / SPC rear camber arms / F.I. 12" CBE / GTM TT / Southbend clutch stg 3 / ProSport Gauges/ ZSpeed Performance Heavy Duty Concentric Slave Cylinder / Twin Oil Coolers. / Tuned by HP Logic

SAM@GTM

We had a great luck with the factory slave cylinder so far, But if would not be a bad idea to upgrade it while you are there.

Sam

RCZ

Man, Sam, if this were true then no aftermarket clutches would be available for this car and no one would have swapped. It seems that all the builds I've seen come out of GTM have an OSG clutch/flywheel combo. Why?

Hell, If something ever happens to my upgraded clutch I'm gonna go back to the stock, per your advice, if that's the case.

I don't doubt you can make it last or that it can last if you rarely put those TT's to work the way they should. I don't mean thrash the car either, good driving means smooth driving, but even so, the stock clutch is not meant to hold 400wtq+ and most will eventually slip if not fail completely. Torque comes early on the tt and as you know that means a whole lot more load and stress on the components. Most of the power is made up top on the SC, hence my comment about the TT needing it sooner.

Now as far as removing the engine. Taking the engine out of the car for a TT install saves money because less time is spent on labor of installing the rest of it. Hence it makes sense to remove it. It's not that you CAN'T, I'm aware that you can, but it will take longer and if you're paying labor that doesn't make any sense. Most of the people who choose to do it with the motor in it tend to be doing it in their garage without a time restraint.

Please don't view this post as a I was just trying to help the OP with info. You actually kinda proved my point though... you posted links that show a TT install is $3,000 more than the SC. Also Flyboy posted his quotes for the installation of SC vs TT...its twice as expensive just to install the TT.

I don't see what the problem with that is, you also get twice the torque and crazy expandability. TT is a great option, but people should be aware that it will be a little more expensive for various reasons. If you don't think a clutch should be recommended and install should be done with the engine on the car, well that's your well informed opinion. I also don't think saying the opposite is being "full of misinformation".

SAM@GTM

It's all about giving the customer accurate information so they can make an informed, educated decision. The reason why you see Twin Turbo builds with clutches, is because the customer chose to go that route. It still stands that the factory clutch can hold the power. Of course like anything else, will not hold it forever, but not completely necessary just because you are putting forced induction on the car. You would be better off spending the money somewhere else, like on an oil cooler for example. Also, as far as pulling the engine, it is not necessary when installing a twin turbo kit or supercharger kit for that matter. By doing a clutch at that time, you are incurring additional parts and labor. So would it be a bad idea to install a clutch while installing forced induction? That depends on your driving habits. Obviously dumping the clutch and doing burnouts all the time will require a clutch replacement sooner than someone who drives normally. What kills the factory clutch is not so much torque capacity, but slipping the clutch and burning up the organic friction material. Even a lot of the aftermarket clutches use the factory organic disc, but just modify the pressure plate for "additional torque capacity". That's all good and well, but that doesn't make it more durable, which is the point I'm trying to make. The factory clutch can hold the power, but cannot take a bunch of slipping and dumping. If, down the road (20,000 miles in some cases), you do end up needing a clutch, then it's best to invest in a clutch that doesn't use an organic disc, such as the OS Giken Twin Disk that you can take to the track, abuse it, and still drive home on a very driveable clutch.

Again our shop 370Z with our supercharger kit still has the original factory clutch, even with all the testing and customer test drives its endured.

Sam