I am not being mean. I knew what SOHO was doing also. Both Mazworx and SOHO did the development work on figuring out how to make it work. Both solutions are different but they both are working. The cost associated with that development is high. I am not going to run around and tell everyone the exact details so they can replicate it for free. So, you pay your money and take your chances.

Yeah i get that I was just scratching my head watching that video over and over, reading the thread over and over trying to figure out the riddle. But yeah it's a secret and that's ok with me! Costs of a lot of time and money to figure these things out.

Going fast costs $$$

Going fast reliably... well I'm not sure you can without damn near a bottomless wallet. That was the take I got from the GTR video. If you've got a trust fund to pull from endlessly, then cram on the horsepower, but plan on an engine rebuild/replacement frequently. :icon14:

I'd love to build my car to the 600hp range, but after doing the research (which included reading Spooler's, Elmo's and some failed build threads), I determined that I was happy with where my car is right now. I'm not at a place in life where I can drop $20K+ on a TT car and be without the car for 6 months or more. I'm okay with that. Spooler has been gracious enough to share with the community the challenges he's gone through to get his car where he wants it. I'll just live vicariously through him, Elmo & jchammond's builds and wish I had the $$$$ to do the same. :tup:

Sometimes I wish I would never have done it. Not because of the money. Because of people. You get lots of hate and much more of the Clout seekers causing trouble. I do enjoy my car though. At times I just want to go silent and enjoy my car in peace.

I thought about it selling any buying another car, depression is real lol. “F that damn thing, sike I’m just making playing I love you”

Everyone that I know that has done a build. At some point. They say to themselves. "What the fk am I doing?" :rofl2:

That is normal. LOL... After every build I have done I have said it. I will never sell the vehicle though. I just keep driving it, maintain it, and enjoying it. My diesel forum went to crap back in 2009. I still have my truck though and I enjoy it. The same will be of my Z. If the forum goes away one day, so be it.

Any project I do anymore is like that. Soon as I start it. It's "what the fk am I doing?" :rofl2:

After a while of writing checks, that is me. LMAO!!! It was worth it though. Every time I get in my car or my truck, it puts a smile on my face.

I feel like I just buy parts for a car that I haven’t seen in two years.

I can't decide if that's better or worse than buying parts for a car that's been sitting in the garage not running for 2 years lol. I think I'd rather be you cause your end result gonna be far superior :tiphat:

Your hood vents will be installed soon

That makes me happy. They probably would have sat for a while here. As I have another hood to procrastinate installation on.

Without sounding like a total pu 55y, does anyone with any success in regards to traction at this power level? I hate to say it right now man but I kinda don’t like this thing. Lol it’s damn scary, just tried a launch and it feels like I’m trying to wrangle her down and between the lines from zero to 130+. Like in 5th gear still feeling like I’m on skates. My launch is perfect, I take right off the line but as soon as I go into boost, even with boost by gear, the damn thing immediately hits redline, shift, immediately redline, 3rd is at least worth something and I get moving, but after all that power, I’d still be slower off the line than my c8 and my buddies stock supra. As soon as I go full throttle it’s immediate redline. If you try to feather it, you’ll them lose boost. I don’t get it

I have the MT super streets, 305/35/18, they are aired down to 27 cold, (originally I thought I went 24 but checked them after the run and they were cooled down) wondering if I should go lower but can’t imagine that’ll make THAT much of a difference. I did a burn out to heat up the tires, then did my launch, maybe just too cold outside? It was in the 50s when I tested this out.

Wanted tonight to boost my confidence in launching and rolling through gears, instead it did the opposite :( I love her, but damn man tonights one of those where you're just down in the dumps :/

[QUOTE=GeauxTigers1;3984076]Without sounding like a total pu 55y, does anyone with any success in regards to traction at this power level?

I have the MT super streets, 305/35/18, they are aired down to 27 cold, (originally I thought I went 24 but checked them after the run and they were cooled down) wondering if I should go lower but can’t imagine that’ll make THAT much of a difference. I did a burn out to heat up the tires, then did my launch, maybe just too cold outside? It was in the 50s when I tested this out.

You’re a bit high on pressure; though with a stick shift Z, may require more sidewall...like in a 17” wheel or smaller :ugh2:
Also factor in your rear camber settings, as 0* or even a tick on + side would be optimum for Dragstrip, as rear wheels naturally camber negative on launching :tup:

Stock springs/height and rear alignment all zeroed out made Justin’s Z hook up insanely better than mine. Needs the higher center of gravity and softer suspension both to greatly aid weight transfer to the rear tires.

Also make sure your tires are fresh. Drag radials heat cycle out and lose grip long before the tread is worn out, especially on IRS cars that heat them up a lot more during highway driving, in my experience

LOL We are in the same boat. Gotta dial in the suspension. I was going to Motec to help with this but it appears it may be a while longer until I do that. 720whp is where my car was best. I feel the same. You have to work your butt off in the drivers seat. Try 900whp, that is wild. The car is constantly trying to kill you. When it is below 80 deg, forget it. I have a new set of 325/30/19's going on when it gets warm. I need to finish getting my 17's for the rear. Going to a MT Street R 305/45/17. They will only be on the car when needed to prevent heat cycling them out.

We are learning slowly. :bowdown:

haha sounds good! She goes in Wednesday to install the splitter so I'll definitely have them check rear camber. I want 17s man but none of the wheels I like come in the fitment we need to clear Akebonos :( I might just have to settle on the wheels just to have a 17 option. Just can't imagine it'll make that much of a difference just form 18s to 17, but I guess there's a reason everyone always goes the smallest wheels possible. This stupid car. lol

Weld Wheels 6.5 in backspacing with High Hat. 17x10.5 will clear the Akebono's. You only need them for the rear. You will also need a hub ring for both sides to prevent from breaking your wheel studs. Solidus already bought my spec and put them on his car. They work like a champ. Only run them when your serious. 1/2 mile racing, etc. MT Street R Radial, size 305/45/17.

My backspacing is 6.7, I had to give Ryan the reciept so the people would believe it.

Diabel with his build awhile back had said at his peak of 77X?rwhp that felt like the limit of traction for the street. Derek, me and you saw that on our "Day of destruction" you were good till you tried that 25psi. What I need now is to score a set of DSS axles then I'm done. I have an odd feeling as soon as I get my new clutch in , I'm gonna twist up the stocks.

Your gonna make me go back and check my data.... Damnit.

dude check out sohos setup. They still twisted the UV joints on the Dss. Soho has an axle, Driveshaft combo from the gods

I feel like there's more to it than just the backspacing and high pad tho. I've only been looking at Al Tomlinsons specs he ordered that I know will fit. It's too freaking expensive to be wrong and go to put them on, only not to clear. Really don't want any spacers. Is that really all we need or isn't there other measurements to consider? offset will make a big difference too. I want to go 17x10.5 or 17x11.

I gave Al the specs. I haven't had a chance to go back and look. You can only do the 17x10.5. That is all you need for the 305/17/45 tire.

You can order them straight from DSS. They are custom axles. JCHammond has the specs.

Yup, I posted in another thread, it’s the “dark night of the soul” moment that everyone goes through on a build at some point.

Many folks end up selling their baby after that, myself included too many times, and then we reminisce about our old cars we wish we still had. Never making that mistake again.

N137 is the pt# for the one’s with 115mm outer CV’s & 108mm inners,
That’s straight through The Drive Shaft Shop in Salisbury NC :tup:

They also offer an upgraded CF driveshaft for the M/T Z’s...but mine’s an A/T, so they need my old one for accurate dimensions to make one :ugh2:

I linked these over in my thread but seems relevant to the conversation above, here.
no affiliation but maybe these could help with traction issues?



/shrug

Throttle body sizing... Live now.

So, the jest of it is to measure the boost pressure in front of the throttle body and also after the throttle body. You are looking for the pressure difference. 3/4 psi, not a big deal. 5 psi, it would be worth looking at upgrading. He also gives the math for the sizing on a N/A car.

72 deg. today. I got a good drive in this afternoon. I had to get my boost junkie fix.

Thinking of turning mine into an ice racer. Get some skinny tires with bolts in them. :driving:

Winters Quick change anyone....

There once was a man from Claxton,
Who’s twin turbos were set to maximum
He went for a spin, cause he liked to win,
And ended up scaring JChammond.

That's on my list from MA

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Wow... I'm a lot salty I just found out about the steering rack and K member modification. I literally just had a custom pan built because I couldn't find anything like that.

Great video on engine diagnoses. I have watched it before, figured I would post it if I haven't already.

Sitting here debating on what to do with the car tune wise. I have no choice but to go to boost by gear. 4 port MAC valve here we come. I think I want to do 12,12, 17, 24,30,30. 4th is iffy at 25psi right now. I am gonna need an old man tune at 12,12,17,17,17,17 when I am running pump E85. Sure would like to be driving back and forth to work again to enjoy the car. Working from home has it's good and bad.