Hey. Can you come back?

Nah, I am just not a good fit there. Not one soul has apologized for their baby chit so there is that.

Here is me teaching you how to fish.

Holey crap, I have been at this since 3-06-2018.

Time flies when you having fun, you have gave us a huge amount of info. you were the first at many different things. i always wondered why you did not try sohos o ring engine? personally i will eventually try some sort of ringed block not sohos there are better options.

Mine is built similar but different to Trash370z's. It is just a touch different. After finding out what happened to mine, we put it back together just like it was before. So far, so good.

I have a few more things that have never been done before. LOL Once you get to 900whp you learn your weak points that need to be addressed. There is so much information in this thread it is nuts.

We are just slow. It would take a DCT upgrade and more power to get the car to be a very fast car. We have to stay in our lane and just enjoy what we have.

370ztrash's build is really basic like mine but stock compression. Forged bottom end and his has Dynosty headgaskets. I'm not sure if it's a closed deck but I know it's not sleeved and no fire rings. No headwork either. What he has going for him is that his car is gutted and only weighs 3000 lbs.

I have a good idea what he has. We shall see how long it lasts.

Me, I am just sitting back and enjoying my car all by myself. I have life going on right now, I don't get as much time driving it as I would like.

My car goes in for all for all the work in a little over a week :driving:

And he wants to push it even harder. He wants to get into the 3's :eek:

There is a story behind that. LOL

Don't get so wound up on what he is doing. The misinformation ship is running full steam ahead. The Z community is notorious for it. A newbie will come along and go through the same old same old routine that has been done time and time again since the 350z days. 2 things have worked to a point but other parts on the cars started breaking.

Oh lord. Yeah, it happens when somebody wants a ride in my car. When us old farts get the need for speed, watch out, we will show you something. I wish I had a dollar for every time
someone told me I was crazy.

Good info. I haven't had time to tune my car in. This will give you some ideas of why a Standalone is so important. So I can make informed decision with quality data.

Good information. You can learn something.

I should say sorry to my wife. The older we get the more expensive our toys are. LOL We never ever grow up.

Put 12 gallons of fuel in my car and let it run for a bit. Battery tracker had it down to 13.1 volts. I couldn't go for a ride. All the rain has my road a mess. I will have to wait until it dries out. Been too busy to drive the car for the last 4 weeks.

Went for a drive today. The car is just stupid fun. I need to add more boost in 2nd and 3rd. Getting there. Traction mods are working like a champ. Noop, nobody else has them. I am still on my R888r's. No need to switch over the drag radials yet.

I talked to Pete at PRI. Specifically about getting a profiler on my car
https://moretraction.com/drag-race/

That's really great to hear!

Yeah, I did the upper rear control arm relocate to. We moved it up. I have two holes to pick from. It was in the video. That and I had the rear diff tuned so it won't one wheel peal anymore. Car is fast and I am only on R888r's. If it spins it goes straight. That's very important as you found out.

I am really laughing at all the people that go straight to a drag pack on the back with only 600 to 700whp. Learning how to drive is important especially on our short wheelbase cars.

If anyone wants a modified Subframe like mine just call up MA-Motorsports. They have a jig for it and can do the mods no problem.

While I am at it. People need to start installing larger turbos and dump the tiny ones they use today. Our engines move a ton of air. With my 1mm larger valves and ported/polished heads the little .82ar exhaust housing had to go. I installed 1.06ar exhaust housing and the engine ate them up and loves them. A pair of G35's or similar Xonarotor's would be much better. Folks need to understand that you will have reliability issues such as headgasket failures and excessive rod bearing wear. Excessive TQ too low in the rpm range will cause nothing but trouble. Who cares about lag, just drop a gear. Besides when you are driving the crap out of it you are never below 5000rpms anyway.

The only thing on my Fast Intentions twin turbo kit that has not been modified are the exhaust manifolds and the 3in downpipes. The rest of the kit is custom and it was not cheap to have upgraded. I tried my best to get them to make a kit designed for 1000whp.

Well I'll be.

Let me throw some numbers out here that way you will know if your turbo kit is efficient.
I am going to use 10:1 compression ratio. Your numbers will go up or down depending on the compression ratio you have. 9:1= lower whp at 17psi of boost. 11:1 = higher whp at 17psi of boost.

If you are not hitting somewhere close to these numbers you have an issue that needs to be addressed. So, stop turning up the boost to try and make it hit the whp numbers you want or you may hurt your engine.

17psi of boost, 10:1 compression ratio on pump E85
720whp

17psi of boost, 10:1 compression ratio on Ignite Red with 1/2 deg more timing.
770whp

To make right at 900whp you should only need 23psi of boost on a 10:1 compression engine. It is more critical that you have your turbo/turbo kit efficient. The higher the whp the easier it is to hurt an engine because your efficiency is not there. Cool dense air makes power. When our cars are right they just make power easy. There is no tuning trickery

That engine has 100k+ of performance parts. The only thing stock about it is the block :). That being said, your turbo points are 100% correct. Drag world has been in front of that for a while. Infact, the sensor setup you have is very similar to what I see in top tier drag builds.

An additional point is that boost PSI is a measure of resistance. 17psi on one car is different on another car depending on restrictions.

BTW, this isn't so much for you Spooler. Just an addendum to your thought.

A good tuner will show you where the engine falls off and explain why instead of forcing it.

I am afraid we don't have any of those on our platform. The person who tuned my car is not from the VQ community. Best kept secret there is.

FIFY

Sorry bro, its the truth for this platform :icon17:

Glad it's all come together and its all working for you. You've earned your results 10x over. :tiphat:

You have no idea. LOL This last upgrade was not cheap. Custom work costs. It is right this time. The car is amazing. We all wish we had the cookie cutter upgrades to make the power like other models and be reliable. Do this to get that whp type deal. Nobody makes a turbo kit that can make 1000whp without some serious modifications. Some kits you just sell and start over. I am happy with my car. At the end of the day that is all that matters.

Life has me busy right now. I will get to tuning my car in one day. It will just have to wait. I have other more important things to deal with right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isayimandrew View Post
If I'm not mistaken, the CSS solution does prevent head lift up to a certain point but for anyone making huge amounts of power the issue pops back up. I am running that exact set up and under 800 whp so its not an issue for me. I think Spooler mentioned going over 800 whp is where head lift becomes an issue.



That's right. If you use a quality MLS and head studs with the CSS it should hold at that level as long as your turbo and turbo kit are designed correctly. If you want more you have to do something to create more sealing pressure.

Examples:
Darton sleeves with step deck cut block, Quality MLS, Head studs
CSS with a copper o-ring/Quality MLS with headstuds.
CSS with Top fuel hoops, copper headgasket, Head studs.

Every one of these solutions can be broken if you don't do not size your turbos properly and do not have an optimal turbo kit. High drive pressure will take out a headgasket with the quickness. Too high of cylinder pressure to low in the rpm range will make our blocks dance. We are not able to push our blocks like other platforms can. At 800whp or above one little tuning mistake or pushing your small turbos too hard will cause major grief. You have to know when to stop turning up the boost. You will get warning signs before destruction happens. A standalone with sensors is worth it and will pay for itself. One rebuild will cost more than the cost of a standalone.

Welp, we can all add Vulcan Cut Ring headgaskets for the VQ. CSS is selling them now.