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the trouble with the vvel is that to set it properly you don't need a consult3 but you do need to to have the actuators in the correct position before

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Old 05-08-2019, 08:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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the trouble with the vvel is that to set it properly you don't need a consult3 but you do need to to have the actuators in the correct position before setting the sensors. this is typically achieved using the plastic assembly hold fixtures that ship on new vvel actuator assemblies but other methods can be used. then from a fresh assemble the car is powered up with the motors disconnected so that the vvel control module doesnt move them out of postion while monitoring the voltage from each position sensor and setting it to the correct value per fsm. all you do with the consult is open that log channel. once the sensors are calibrated you plug the motors back in so the vvel can start working. plugging in the motors and turning the ignition on before setting the sensors base reading will move the vvel system out of mechanical position which wil move the position of the sensore once calibrated. That is the sole reason nissan tells you to throw out the actuators any time you take them, or their sensors off the motor, and to never run the calibration twice as when not from a fresh assembly you can not control the base position of the vvel system. to be clear when the ignition turns on the control module commands the vvel motors to sensor zero so if the sensor are not in the correct position it will move the actuators to match where the sensors are set now and no amount of performing the calibration procedure will help. unless the changed the software passed 2013 last time i had hands on vvel engine that still used actuators was a long time ago.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the trouble with the vvel is that to set it properly you don't need a consult3 but you do need to to have the actuators in the correct position before setting the sensors. this is typically achieved using the plastic assembly hold fixtures that ship on new vvel actuator assemblies but other methods can be used. then from a fresh assemble the car is powered up with the motors disconnected so that the vvel control module doesnt move them out of postion while monitoring the voltage from each position sensor and setting it to the correct value per fsm. all you do with the consult is open that log channel. once the sensors are calibrated you plug the motors back in so the vvel can start working. plugging in the motors and turning the ignition on before setting the sensors base reading will move the vvel system out of mechanical position which wil move the position of the sensore once calibrated. That is the sole reason nissan tells you to throw out the actuators any time you take them, or their sensors off the motor, and to never run the calibration twice as when not from a fresh assembly you can not control the base position of the vvel system. to be clear when the ignition turns on the control module commands the vvel motors to sensor zero so if the sensor are not in the correct position it will move the actuators to match where the sensors are set now and no amount of performing the calibration procedure will help. unless the changed the software passed 2013 last time i had hands on vvel engine that still used actuators was a long time ago.
MA has done many of these. I have to think they have it down. My current issue is a problem that I had before I took the car to them. The car would feel flat and lazy. It was if I was only getting partial throttle. Shut the car off and cranked it back up. Same issue. First time I wiggled the connector on the drivers side throttle body. Cranked the car back up and I was good to go. Second time I wiggle just the cable. No change. Wiggled the connector, good as gold. 4th time I disconnected the drivers side throttle body connector. Plugged back in and all was good. It would only happen in the summer months on the way home from work. No codes, check engine light, Nothing. If the new throttle bodies doesn't fix the issue it has to be an issue with the VVEL. I will be stuck in TURBO BUILD HELL.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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MA has done many of these. I have to think they have it down. My current issue is a problem that I had before I took the car to them. The car would feel flat and lazy. It was if I was only getting partial throttle. Shut the car off and cranked it back up. Same issue. First time I wiggled the connector on the drivers side throttle body. Cranked the car back up and I was good to go. Second time I wiggle just the cable. No change. Wiggled the connector, good as gold. 4th time I disconnected the drivers side throttle body connector. Plugged back in and all was good. It would only happen in the summer months on the way home from work. No codes, check engine light, Nothing. If the new throttle bodies doesn't fix the issue it has to be an issue with the VVEL. I will be stuck in TURBO BUILD HELL.
You mentioned wiggling the cable and connector to fix the problem. Are you sure it's not a cable/connector issue, not the throttle body itself?
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You mentioned wiggling the cable and connector to fix the problem. Are you sure it's not a cable/connector issue, not the throttle body itself?
I am about positive. I looked over the connectors in the cable really good. I didn't see any pushed back. They all appeared to be normal. I have diagnosed many a wiring harness issue. It is the first thing I looked at. The only way to say for sure NO is to go up to MA and looked at it myself. I was trying to avoid that. It did cross my mind.

By the way, when I worked as a tech for Nissan, wiring issues, chronic check engine lights, broke wires in harnesses, etc was my specialty. I always got those cars. None of this stuff is new to me except for the VVEL system.

Last edited by Spooler; 05-08-2019 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am about positive. I looked over the connectors in the cable really good. I didn't see any pushed back. They all appeared to be normal. I have diagnosed many a wiring harness issue. It is the first thing I looked at. The only way to say for sure NO is to go up to MA and looked at it myself. I was trying to avoid that. It did cross my mind.

By the way, when I worked as a tech for Nissan, wiring issues, chronic check engine lights, broke wires in harnesses, etc was my specialty. I always got those cars. None of this stuff is new to me except for the VVEL system.
I figured it was something you had looked at and had pretty much ruled out but I had to ask. I've overlooked some of the most obvious things before.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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UPS is screwing me. It appears I paid for a service they could not deliver on.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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UPS is screwing me. It appears I paid for a service they could not deliver on.
Murphy's Law
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Murphy's Law
Yes it is. UPS has stood up to it's name again. Un-Predictable Service.

The package is in UPS purgatory of IN-Transit. It didn't make it to Baltimore, Maryland.
It says it was delayed. No shiet Sherlock.

Last edited by Spooler; 05-09-2019 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 05-09-2019, 12:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes it is. UPS has stood up to it's name again. Un-Predictable Service.

The package is in UPS purgatory of IN-Transit. It didn't make it to Baltimore, Maryland.
It says it was delayed. No shiet Sherlock.
I ask for my money back. It's a bad deal when USPS is cheaper and faster!

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Old 05-09-2019, 09:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I ask for my money back. It's a bad deal when USPS is cheaper and faster!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
They have to be delivered before I can get a refund. No update on the tracking yet. This is crazy.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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UPS is screwing me. It appears I paid for a service they could not deliver on.
Unfortunately, you are to blame. See Post #1120 below.

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Everything is setup for the car to be back on the rollers Friday. UPS don't screw me now.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, you are to blame. See Post #1120 below.
Suck My Diickydooo....
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, you are to blame. See Post #1120 below.
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Suck My Diickydooo....
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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And FYI on something slightly off topic...if FedEx somehow charges you incorrectly, less than what they should’ve charged, they can add charges to your credit card afterward and there’s nothing you can do about it. CC company will side with the carrier.

Don’t know if it’s the same with UPS but I imagine the same.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If you want to get back at shipping companies, it's not difficult. Package up a bunch of rocks in a box. Ship them overseas using a credit card. Then report the card as stolen
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