Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Spooler · 03-07-2018, 10:47 AM

For what I am doing, a Bryant crank for a VQ37 will not be needed. FI cars don't need to rev past 8K IMHO.

Rid3_FaM0uS · 03-07-2018, 11:00 AM

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

Spooler · 03-11-2018, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

What compression ratio was your engine?

Rid3_FaM0uS · 03-13-2018, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

What compression ratio was your engine?

I have built both a 9:1, and an 11:1 comp ratio engine for my car now. Spent 3 years running down the 3.7L open deck block record at 850whp on my 9:1 engine. I tried literally everything. Different head gaskets, thicknesses, gasket coatings, clamping loads, had the heads O-ringed(final engine was a culmination of the three.). 8 head gasket sets, 2 blocks, and 8 connecting rods later I called it quits July of ‘17; when I lost another head gasket set after the dyno in may. Finally broke down, and invested in a closed deck block. Wasn’t until I took a stone to my old deck surface that I realized the there indeed are very noticeable high and low spots that form from cylinder expansions that are happening under high boost pressures. At the end of the day I’m telling you, one memeber to another, I don’t care who says what or what they think they know; your car WILL blow head gaskets over 800whp if you choose not to support the cylinder from shifting in some shape or form. 1Life the dynosty built haltech car did it at 820whp which is why he had his engine rebuilt, and purposefully turned back to 780-790.

FYI Charles is not looking to push Justin’s built car without some sort of cylinder reinforcement(whether that be dowels, inserts, or a block fill time will tell); they are merely using Justin’s car as a test bed to run the GTR head bolts which are currently being used on R35s well into the 12-1300whp realm. Not too bad considering the set of 16 can be bought for less that $100.

Rusty · 03-13-2018, 10:41 PM

That's some nasty gas cutting there. Wonder where the line was before needing cylinder reinforcement.

Elmo370z · 03-14-2018, 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

I have built both a 9:1, and an 11:1 comp ratio engine for my car now. Spent 3 years running down the 3.7L open deck block record at 850whp on my 9:1 engine. I tried literally everything. Different head gaskets, thicknesses, gasket coatings, clamping loads, had the heads O-ringed(final engine was a culmination of the three.). 8 head gasket sets, 2 blocks, and 8 connecting rods later I called it quits July of ‘17; when I lost another head gasket set after the dyno in may. Finally broke down, and invested in a closed deck block. Wasn’t until I took a stone to my old deck surface that I realized the there indeed are very noticeable high and low spots that form from cylinder expansions that are happening under high boost pressures. At the end of the day I’m telling you, one memeber to another, I don’t care who says what or what they think they know; your car WILL blow head gaskets over 800whp if you choose not to support the cylinder from shifting in some shape or form. 1Life the dynosty built haltech car did it at 820whp which is why he had his engine rebuilt, and purposefully turned back to 780-790.

FYI Charles is not looking to push Justin’s built car without some sort of cylinder reinforcement(whether that be dowels, inserts, or a block fill time will tell); they are merely using Justin’s car as a test bed to run the GTR head bolts which are currently being used on R35s well into the 12-1300whp realm. Not too bad considering the set of 16 can be bought for less that $100.

I think we are all interested in phunks experiment.

Elmo370z · 03-12-2018, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

Cjm is working on a solution to not have to run a closed deck or sleeve the block.

Spooler · 03-07-2018, 12:38 PM

Well crap. I guess I will be building the engine and installing a CJ Motorsport duel fuel pump setup. If I build the engine now I basically get it for half price from what it would cost later. Editing parts list.

Spooler · 03-12-2018, 09:59 AM

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

Hotrodz · 03-12-2018, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Elmo370z · 03-12-2018, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Nobody has hotrodz money

Hotrodz · 03-12-2018, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Nobody has hotrodz money

LMAO, if anybody does it is Spooler! A closed deck block is cheap compared to some of the other mods he is doing.

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Spooler · 03-12-2018, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

LMAO, if anybody does it is Spooler! A closed deck block is cheap compared to some of the other mods he is doing.

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I have a street corner in Savannah that pays for all this. Show a little leg, get paid.

Spooler · 03-12-2018, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

If Daleon says I need it, then I will think about it. You gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere. As far as more later, I doubt it. I am doing everything I want to the first time. Cheaper that way.

Hotrodz · 03-12-2018, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

If Daleon says I need it, then I will think about it. You gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere. As far as more later, I doubt it. I am doing everything I want to the first time. Cheaper that way.

Famous last words!!! You will be the only one I know that does not ask or want more after getting used to the power. You are already down the rabbit whole and there is no bottom just a bend or two....then down it goes again!

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03-07-2018, 10:47 AM	#1 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,121 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	For what I am doing, a Bryant crank for a VQ37 will not be needed. FI cars don't need to rev past 8K IMHO. Hotrodz likes this.

03-07-2018, 11:00 AM	#2 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 45	A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you! GaleForce, Rusty, Hotrodz and 3 others like this. __________________ Always under construction. . .

03-13-2018, 10:41 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,507 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684439	That's some nasty gas cutting there. Wonder where the line was before needing cylinder reinforcement. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

03-07-2018, 12:38 PM	#8 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,121 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	Well crap. I guess I will be building the engine and installing a CJ Motorsport duel fuel pump setup. If I build the engine now I basically get it for half price from what it would cost later. Editing parts list. Rusty, Rid3_FaM0uS, jchammond and 2 others like this.

03-12-2018, 09:59 AM	#9 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,121 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out. Rusty likes this. Last edited by Spooler; 03-12-2018 at 10:04 AM.

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