[Build Thread] -- Journey to 700+ WHP [Supercharger]

Rusty · 06-28-2018, 12:14 PM

Idle pulleys don't count. Forget all about them.
You need the diameters of: (where the belt rides)
The drive pulley (crank).
The driven pulley (pulley on the supercharger)
Plus the internal supercharger ratio.
Max engine rpm.

cupcakez · 06-28-2018, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Idle pulleys don't count. Forget all about them.
You need the diameters of: (where the belt rides)
The drive pulley (crank).
The driven pulley (pulley on the supercharger)
Plus the internal supercharger ratio.
Max engine rpm.

Okay but the supercharger has two different pullies it uses aside from the idler. 3.2 and I replaced the other 3.2 with a 3.0. So I use the 3.0 or the 3.2 or, should I average them out and just put 3.1?

Internal SC ratio is V3 setup so thats pretty easy since they have that option.

Drive pulley (Crank) - Okay I will put 5.5" since that is what I replaced my previous crank pulley with. An ATI 5.5" Street Super Dampnr pulley.

Max engine RPM: 7800 to be general.

Diameter of where the belt rides like how big the belt is in diameter?

Rusty · 06-28-2018, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez

Okay but the supercharger has two different pullies it uses aside from the idler. 3.2 and I replaced the other 3.2 with a 3.0. So I use the 3.0 or the 3.2 or, should I average them out and just put 3.1?

Internal SC ratio is V3 setup so thats pretty easy since they have that option.

Drive pulley (Crank) - Okay I will put 5.5" since that is what I replaced my previous crank pulley with. An ATI 5.5" Street Super Dampnr pulley.

Max engine RPM: 7800 to be general.

Diameter of where the belt rides like how big the belt is in diameter?

The diameter of where the belt rides on the pulley.

This set-up uses 2 belts, right? (sorry, I was thinking of one belt) So you need the crank pulley and the driven jackshaft pulley. Then the jackshaft drive pulley and the driven supercharger pulley.

cupcakez · 06-28-2018, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

The diameter of where the belt rides on the pulley.

This set-up uses 2 belts, right? (sorry, I was thinking of one belt) So you need the crank pulley and the driven jackshaft pulley. Then the jackshaft drive pulley and the driven supercharger pulley.

Too confusing for me lol.
Theres only 4 slots on his calculator xD
And theres only 2 spots for 2 diff pulley sizes.
I give up hahaha

My blower is overspinning for a fact I just wont know how much xD

turtle64b · 06-28-2018, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez

Too confusing for me lol.
Theres only 4 slots on his calculator xD
And theres only 2 spots for 2 diff pulley sizes.
I give up hahaha

My blower is overspinning for a fact I just wont know how much xD

https://vortechsuperchargers.com/pag...eed-calculator

Instead of cog teeth, use pulley diameter.

milkcow500 · 06-28-2018, 05:21 PM

Here is the stock setup with the 9lb pulley. Slightly overspinning, hence why Stillen made you sign a warranty release form when they were selling it.

Optimiser · 06-28-2018, 06:44 PM

My current setup:

Crank 5.75"
Engine RPM 7500
Supercharger pulley 3.0"
Jack shaft pulley 3.20"
Jack shaft serpentine pulley 2.80"
= Mine is spinning at 59307 RPM.

cupcakez · 06-28-2018, 09:19 PM

Dang it. I swapped my crank pulley for the ATI Super Dampr pulley that is 5.5".
I get less spin because of that but I suppose that doesnt matter since I am already overspinning it

redondoaveb · 06-28-2018, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez

Dang it. I swapped my crank pulley for the ATI Super Dampr pulley that is 5.5".
I get less spin because of that but I suppose that doesnt matter since I am already overspinning it

Mine's spinning almost 61000 rpm and my sc isn't slinging oil.

cupcakez · 06-29-2018, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

Mine's spinning almost 61000 rpm and my sc isn't slinging oil.

How the heck does your guys sc not leak oil xD
the only diff i can think of is the 928 parts...idk?

is it my pulleys or bad install or what

cupcakez · 06-29-2018, 01:18 AM

I had an idea about how to get around the pressure build up if both plugs are plugged up with non-vented plugs in the self-contained V3 blowers!

If the pressure inside that builds up in the blower works like a soda can to where once pressure is in there it won't be released or dissipate until there is an opening, then my idea is worthless.

If the pressure inside that builds up is mainly because of heat only just like the radiator caps -- then maybe I could put the shipping plug to replace the vented plug, do a few hard pulls, then wait a bit until car is cooled off --> then take out the plug to release the pressure lol. Idk. What do you guys think?

Just a thought.

Either that or ... resort to making a custom catch can or something, or a barbed fitting that's the same size as the vent plug and use that barb fitting to connect to a container to catch all the oil that spills out while having that can relieve any pressure up top of the can as breather holes, idk haha.

What do you guys think? Thoughts?

Optimiser · 06-29-2018, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

Mine's spinning almost 61000 rpm and my sc isn't slinging oil.

Have you tried running it at constant high RPM's for 5 to 10 mins on a track?
If so I'd love to know why oil isn't coming out of the breather.
No oil comes out of mine when giving it quick bursts on the street but the track is a different matter.

redondoaveb · 06-29-2018, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimiser

Have you tried running it at constant high RPM's for 5 to 10 mins on a track?
If so I'd love to know why oil isn't coming out of the breather.
No oil comes out of mine when giving it quick bursts on the street but the track is a different matter.

The car hasn't been on the track so it's possible that it could be an issue. But I didn't build my car to be a track car so I'm not concerned. I'm am getting ready to pull the sc to send to 928 and I'll be doing some additional upgrades. I've got my fingers crossed that the upgrades don't cause the oil slinging.

Amaterazu · 07-01-2018, 07:33 PM

Good luck with that!

I may just keep my car stock ... dealing with all of the issues I read could be too much of as hassle for me!

milkcow500 · 07-01-2018, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amaterazu

Good luck with that!

I may just keep my car stock ... dealing with all of the issues I read could be too much of as hassle for me!

Welcome to boost life lol.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

06-28-2018, 12:14 PM	#151 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,852 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	Idle pulleys don't count. Forget all about them. You need the diameters of: (where the belt rides) The drive pulley (crank). The driven pulley (pulley on the supercharger) Plus the internal supercharger ratio. Max engine rpm. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 06-28-2018 at 12:17 PM.

06-28-2018, 09:19 PM	#158 (permalink)
cupcakez Track Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: California Posts: 635 Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup Rep Power: 4835	Dang it. I swapped my crank pulley for the ATI Super Dampr pulley that is 5.5". I get less spin because of that but I suppose that doesnt matter since I am already overspinning it __________________ \|\| ECUTEK (Eugene) \|\| A2A \|\| IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec \|\| RJM Short Block \|\| Quaife LSD \|\| KW V3 \|\| Stillen-Exhaust \|\| 11.0.1 CR \|\| 928 Full Rebuild \|\| CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler \|\|

06-29-2018, 01:18 AM	#161 (permalink)
cupcakez Track Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: California Posts: 635 Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup Rep Power: 4835	I had an idea about how to get around the pressure build up if both plugs are plugged up with non-vented plugs in the self-contained V3 blowers! If the pressure inside that builds up in the blower works like a soda can to where once pressure is in there it won't be released or dissipate until there is an opening, then my idea is worthless. If the pressure inside that builds up is mainly because of heat only just like the radiator caps -- then maybe I could put the shipping plug to replace the vented plug, do a few hard pulls, then wait a bit until car is cooled off --> then take out the plug to release the pressure lol. Idk. What do you guys think? Just a thought. Either that or ... resort to making a custom catch can or something, or a barbed fitting that's the same size as the vent plug and use that barb fitting to connect to a container to catch all the oil that spills out while having that can relieve any pressure up top of the can as breather holes, idk haha. What do you guys think? Thoughts? __________________ \|\| ECUTEK (Eugene) \|\| A2A \|\| IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec \|\| RJM Short Block \|\| Quaife LSD \|\| KW V3 \|\| Stillen-Exhaust \|\| 11.0.1 CR \|\| 928 Full Rebuild \|\| CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler \|\|

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07-01-2018, 07:33 PM	#164 (permalink)
Amaterazu Base Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: America Posts: 16 Drives: 2016 MT 370z Rep Power: 498	Good luck with that! I may just keep my car stock ... dealing with all of the issues I read could be too much of as hassle for me!