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Oh, and the Quaife is fantastic. Now I can put the power down! Coming out of a turn is now so much more fun without any craziness going on. Very

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Old 08-08-2016, 05:13 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Oh, and the Quaife is fantastic. Now I can put the power down! Coming out of a turn is now so much more fun without any craziness going on. Very predictable and quick! As soon as I get the brakes bedded in and some miles on them I can really play with the car.

Leak test scheduled for tomorrow evening. Today is my birthday so I'm going out to dinner with the family. 62 years young today! Living the dream!
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:08 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Oh, and the Quaife is fantastic. Now I can put the power down! Coming out of a turn is now so much more fun without any craziness going on. Very predictable and quick! As soon as I get the brakes bedded in and some miles on them I can really play with the car.

Leak test scheduled for tomorrow evening. Today is my birthday so I'm going out to dinner with the family. 62 years young today! Living the dream!
Right on man! Old guys with young minds rule!!!

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Old 08-09-2016, 04:26 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Oh, and the Quaife is fantastic. Now I can put the power down! Coming out of a turn is now so much more fun without any craziness going on. Very predictable and quick! As soon as I get the brakes bedded in and some miles on them I can really play with the car.

Leak test scheduled for tomorrow evening. Today is my birthday so I'm going out to dinner with the family. 62 years young today! Living the dream!
Happy Birthday!
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:58 AM   #124 (permalink)
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I'll probably hold off on the leak test to this weekend. I ordered the FI tow bar and it should be here by Friday so while I have the front end off I can go ahead and install that piece of hardware.

It was a happy B'day yesterday. Thanks!!
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:18 PM   #125 (permalink)
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For those of you following this, I would like to say how happy I am with the support from Seb and Topgunz as well as a bunch of you that have chimed in at times. These guys have been great and very patient as I work through the process of boosting my Z. While I am not where I thought I would be (whp wise) I am very happy with how the car runs and drives. It is waaaaaaay faster than stock and quite fun to play with so I'm overall happy with the results.

It is looking like I will need the Si impeller upgrade to reach my goal of 450 whp so that may have to wait until next year as I am rapidly running out of my summer break to get the car finished. My recording and video business is starting to book up and it is what pays for the "toys".

The new brakes are bedding in nicely and boy do they not only stop but there is a big difference in the brake feel. With the SS brake lines and Stoptech pads the pedal is very firm and gives great feedback as to what is going on. The drilled and slotted rotors cannot be heard over the exhaust so that is a bonus.

Overall the car has been greatly transformed since I started turning wrenches back in June. Has it been worth it...............4ell yeah! Would I do it again..........4ell yeah!

I'm hoping by the end of August I can reach a good stopping point of the build and just enjoy the car until next summer when I will have time to do some upgrades. When I get to the end of the month I'm planning on starting a thread on "Lessons Learned about Boosting a Z". Why you may ask, well it is because I have had a lot of PMs, text messages and direct phone calls about what I have done and besides I feel I need to give back to the Z community. Thanks guys!!!!!
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:05 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Gonna try and catch up on this thread tonight but if you need any help tinkering let me know. Pretty sure you are close to me like we talked about in PMs. From what I've seen so far it seems like a really nice build!
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Old 08-13-2016, 11:26 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Hey next time we have a Z&G crew meet in Alabama you should come out. Also if you need some time on a Dynojet and don't want to drive that far we've got a guy in Birmingham who charges $60 for 3 pulls and $100 for an hour for tuning purposes. Derraj06 and have spent a decent bit of time there with my car. Call me if you're ever in Birmingham. Brent bonham 205-901-3735.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:21 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Hey next time we have a Z&G crew meet in Alabama you should come out. Also if you need some time on a Dynojet and don't want to drive that far we've got a guy in Birmingham who charges $60 for 3 pulls and $100 for an hour for tuning purposes. Derraj06 and have spent a decent bit of time there with my car. Call me if you're ever in Birmingham. Brent bonham 205-901-3735.
Thanks Brent, that's good to know. We have a dyno here in HSV too but I'm not sure if it is a dynojet. I can ask my buddy Jimmy, the crazy guy with the Supra.

I was following the Z&G site for awhile but have been side tracked with getting my car done.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:46 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Here are the latest updates on my Z.

Saturday I spent most of the day trying to fix the toilet by working on the sink.......what I thought was a boost leak has turned out to be a belt slip issue. After working on the SC to IC plumbing for several hours trying to get the 45 degree coupler to work I gave up and went back to my 90 degree way and then did a leak test. I found that I had to really crank down on one of the clamps to get it to stop leaking. It wasn't a big leak and it didn't show up until I got to 7 psi.

What I did to perform the leak test was to disconnect the 90 degree coupler from the SC and rotate the coupler 180 degrees so I could put my homemade leak tester on. The leak tester is made from PVC pipe and electrical tape. The electrical tape was used to build up the end of the pipe so that it would stay clamped to the coupler. It worked like a charm. To introduce the air I used a spare air hose coupler I had and simply drilled a slightly undersized hole for it and then screwed it into the end cap. Next I used some 15 minute epoxy to lock the fitting to the cap by putting epoxy on the threads that were protruding on the inside of the cap.

Next I closed the regulator on my air compressor and put the hose on to the leak tester. I then turned on the car (did not start the engine) so that I could monitor the boost gauge. Then I slowly turned up the air pressure until I found the leak which took about 7 psi for it to show up.

After I had determined that I no longer had any leaks I put the new Fast Intentions tow bar on. It fit perfect.

By this time the sky was not looking very friendly so I knew that if I wanted to get a data log run in I had better do it quick. Drove the car to get it up to temp and then did a quick 3rd gear run. Got back home and dumped the log data and saw that the boost was STILL not where it should be. I started studying the log data and saw that the boost had built up pretty linear up to about 6K rpm and then started flatting out at 7 psi and then as the rpm increased the boost actually started to go down. By the time the engine was at 7K the boost had DROPPED to 5 psi. This looks like a belt slip issue.

I was going to spray the serpentine belt with some CRC belt dressing to try again but the rain had started. Looked at the radar and saw that it was going to be staying for awhile. I'll try again sometime this week and see if the belt dressing helps.

My next battle plan is to use Pauly Z's idea of using an additional idler to get more wrap of the drive belt on the SC jackshaft pulley. As soon as I get the items needed I'll be doing that mod.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:33 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Can you send me a pic of your supercharger? I think I asked this in the other thread too. If you don't have it rotated correctly, the 45 won't fit. It seems to have worked on all the other builds but this one.
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Old 08-15-2016, 03:47 PM   #131 (permalink)
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After seeing the picture of your supercharger in the other thread:

The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit.

Way up at the top of the L pipe where the coupler is, is the fulcrum of that pipe position. If it is turned off the volute 1 inch then that translates to 5 inches at the connection point to the coupler.

Its like taping a straw to a quarter. Rotate the quarter a half inch and watch the other end of the straw move 10 inches.

It really has to be installed correctly in order for it to work.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:38 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Great thread btw.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:44 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Great thread btw.
Thanks!

It's all a process and patience is a must.

I have the pulley and belt on order to do the Pauly Z belt mod. Everything should be here tomorrow along with the 8 rib belt.

Last night I looked at the spare K071045 belt I have (stock Stillen serpentine belt) and it sure looks like the belts are made from a big wide belt and simply sliced to width. All I need to do to the 8 rib belt (K081088) is cut one rib from it so that it is a 7 rib belt that is 109 3/8 inches long. The K0X portion of the belt number is the number of ribs so my new belt will be a K071088 which doesn't exist......

Cutting off one rib will either be very simple or very hard. The simple way is to use a utility knife and lay the belt flat and simply follow the gro0ve to slice off one rib. If that gives me a problem I will set up my lathe to do the cutting. That will take some time to work on a tool holder mod to hold a utility blade but it will give me a very precise cut. If that is what is needed I can make these belts for you guys at a very reasonable cost. I am hoping that the first method will work and you can make your own.

My plan is to install the belt mod this weekend.

This week is crazy busy, our main garage door broke sometime Sunday night when the helper spring broke. That is supposed to get fixed tomorrow. I'm also not in shape to work on the car right now as I got two spider bites Sunday afternoon while driving my Z to go and visit my dad. I felt a sting on my shoulder but didn't think much of it and then another sting in my arm pit. Smashed the SOB then. It was under my shirt so I never saw it and there wasn't much left of it after I ground it to mush. I'm itching like crazy!
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:50 PM   #134 (permalink)
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All of the new belt parts are in or made.

I used the NAPA pulley that Pauly Z found for us:
Pulley- 54 mm #36375
Belt- Micro V 6 rib #061093 OR MODIFIED K081088 along with a 12x1.75x50mm bolt, a 12x1.75mm hex nut and 6ea. 7/16 inch washers for spacers. I had to make a spacer to make up the difference between the inside diameter of the pulley and the 12mm bolt. A step up shank bolt would be best but you use what you have available. If you need a spacer let me know and I can make one for you. I may just go ahead and design a step spacer so that I don't have to use all of the washers. Let me see how it fits and then I can go from there on the design.

The belt cut down will happen tomorrow night (the wife has plans for me tonight). The belt I got is the fleet HD belt so it should hold up well. The bad part is that it is green........Heck as long as it doesn't slip I don't care what color it is!

I checked the K080188 eight rib belt last night and the rib size and spacing is exactly like the K071045 (stock Stillen) belt so removing one rib will make the correct belt for us at the 109 3/8 length. This is way cheaper than the $10K setup fee and 100 minimum buy from Gates.
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Last edited by TBatt; 08-30-2016 at 10:49 AM. Reason: added belt info
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:28 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Success!!! Modifying the 8 rib belt to 7 ribs was very easy to do. Just make sure you have a new blade in your utility knife and take multiple cuts. Don't try and do it with one cut, the belt is pretty tough. The blade will follow the groove so just make about four passes with the knife cutting about 4-6 inches of length at a time. Keep the blade perpendicular with the cutting surface (I used a hobby cutting mat). When I had finished the belt fell on the floor and when I picked it up I could not tell which was the original side! Perfect!

The whole operation took about ten minutes to do and saved me $10,000.

I have worked up a design for a custom spacer for the new pulley. I'll see if I can scrounge up a piece of 1 inch aluminum rod at work tomorrow to make it. I'll post pictures of the work as it progresses. I NEED MORE BOOST!!!!

PDF of the spacer design is a 3D PDF. You can use your mouse to rotate the spacer to see the design.
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Last edited by TBatt; 08-18-2016 at 09:52 AM. Reason: spacer design
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