Hahaha.. Understatement. That Tial is one loud sumumabitch. And you will hear the sc more also.

So what did Ecutek say about the software/hardware?

Yes...the charger/blower is more distinct....u can definitely tell it's not just bolt on under the hood. With the Tial ur gonna make more noise..Lol

Was this strictly for looks? Going to paint it black?

For those of u that have done the Tial upgrade did u just buy ur couplers foe the new flange pipe locally? I've noticed different styles of couplers being used. MilkCows coupler looks like it's flexible.

I assume it's ok if he's going back on the dyno.
Hopefully hear later if the tial being the other way around was the issue or not
Fingers crossed it was or I'll be searching under the hood for every possible point of vibration
But we took great care to make sure nothing was touching

Are you using the "T" coupler with 1" adapter and looking to swap to Tial?

If so, you should just let me send you the 60* with 2.75" pipe to reducer coupler to Tial flange to hump hose.

I improved the kit with this setup so it fits up better now instead of fighting that 45* off the volute.

Unfortunately mine fell under the issue on when TopGunz was talking about issues with the treadstone FMIC mounting points being different. My setup shifted a bit, so I needed a bit more flexibility in my system due to clearance with my bumper.

I had to test a few setups, but the current one you see in the pic has been working out for me pretty well.

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For looks and to make it more permanent than bolting a plate with gasket sealer... not sure if I am going to paint it

As far as tial instructions, I wish I would have kept them, it looked like a tiny scribble on a napkin that showed absolutely no direction, just where to put it in relation to the supercharger and intake.

I did find this dimensional drawing on tial's website that clearly shows it setup as option A. They had like a dozen different drawings and never had the diffuser on the other side. So looks like I will be flipping it back

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7...0GRJ%20DIM.jpg

Yes Topz...I am currently on the T Coupler...using the stock Bosch BPV....I ordered all the stuff for the Tial that u suggested....I would appreciate the 60* pipe upgrade...Lmk what the cost and shipping will cost so I can PayPal u the funds

I've just had this email from my mapper ........



We have been mapping the car on road (dyno has been tied up) and it would appear the dv change has helped. We have just put it on the dyno now to give it some power runs but the first run, although much better, is still pulling a lot of timing out above 4,000rpm. I have made a couple of changes and will try again now then again in the morning.


So it looks like I have still got a few issues but the tial defo seems better lay on its side

Picture A I think it was

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You are SD MAP tuning right? Are they MAF tuning at WOT at all?

Not last time he used maffs at low rpm and then
Sd at higher rpm because of turbulence from the maffs on the stock stillen set up

So I assume he's doing the same now

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Ok. Because stock mafs will max out around 9psi. But if he is hybrid tuning then thats not an issue.

Ahh I see
He's a good tuner one off the best in uk so hopefully whatever the issues are he can work threw them
He did mention before that the ecu keept dropping load but hasn't said this again so hopefully whatever that issue was its gone

What psi would he see with the stock pulley ?

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With test pipes, free flowing exhaust and sci trim then under 8.

With cats and stock exhaust then over 8.

Test pipes and invidia Gemini

Yeah, less restriction, lower psi, more power

What are you guys gapping the NGK GTR Plugs to. Or are you just running them as pre-gapped?

That's Very strange as to why I'm seing 10/11 psi then topz as we discussed on email I'm baffled by that one

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Dyno results from Air to Air upgrade!!!
 

Well finally after months of waiting for and stuffing around with parts from the US and lots of $$$ my shop has finally completed my A to A upgrade! :driving:
Some things to note were that the Stillen fuel pump ran out of pressure when engine was at 5500RPM and was replaced with a 340LPH pump. I've ended up using a 3.00" improved traction SC pulley, stock jack shaft pulley and a 2.80"improved traction serp pulley, giving me 10PSI. I replaced both the SC and serp belts and used the extra idler pulley (with special spacer), that was supplied to me by the most helpful and friendly "TBatt". This is to try and stop any belt slippage on serp side. I am also using the Tial BPV.
The Stillen fuel injectors did not need replacing and I'm using BP "Ultimate" 98 RON fuel which is the best you can get here in Australia. The injectors didn't max out and are fine with my current tune. I'm also Uprev tuned and using the stock MAF's, so no SD tuning on this. The dyno is a "Dynapack chassis dyno which are popular in Japan. They are the "static" ones where your (driven) wheels are removed and connected to a unit that spins a hydraulic pump/motor. The wobbles on the dyno graph's lines are due to the Dynapack's sensor which fluctuates a bit in hotter weather (it's middle of summer here down under) and is therefore not at all to do with fluctuations with the engine, so ignore them. The tune is very stable and smooth and the engine idles perfectly.
Overall I was hoping to get a bit more power than this, but around 450 (safe) WHP and about 352 wheel torque, it's still great and I'm happy. I'm also glad it's all over and I have my car back finally! You can see the before (Standard Stillen setup) and after (TopGunz A to A upgrade) results on the dyno charts.

Definitely going to be hitting you up shortly when my A2A kit finally gets here.

Was so pissed when mine only ended up making 265rwkw @ 10 PSI & full MAF tuning.

Seb is eTuning mine with SD & MAF, and I'm very interested to see how that's going to differ to you.

Got a graph showing Boost or AFR?

Posted some of mine, and never sat well with me how leaned out my original local Tuner made mine. Take a look at the plug photo, Cylinder 1-5 were exaclty like that. Cylinder 6 was absolutely pitch black. Junked them and bought some HKS MH45L ones.

Yes it will be most interesting to compare your E "Seb" tune.

I only have the graph on the left to show boost and no AFR.

Mine has made 500 crank
It's been pulled back down to 475 as I was getting a bit of knock at the top
This is on the 7lb stillen pully
A2a 1000cc Injectors aeromotive 340 and cjm fuel return

If I can figure this knock it should fly over 500 but 420whp I'd plenty for now on UK roads trust me :)

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Sorry I don't speak gloabalism. What is this in Freedom? too lazy to convert.:icon18:

Hah, if you're too lazy to convert then I guess it's always gonna be a mystery for you. :p

Glad it's on the road again Optimizer. I bet it drives better with responsiveness also.

Yes and thanks TopZ.
I'm still getting used to it again, especially after it being off the the road for a few months. Yes it's very smooth and responsive and I think I can live with the Tial BPV noise. It's loud but not an "acute" type of noise. I'm getting new tires shortly which is really necessary with this power and a 4.08 diff. I'm going for Yokohama Advan AD08R's. The stock Potenza's aren't sticky enough. :driving:

Glad to hear it. If you want to quiet down the Tial put a 1.5" hose on it and run it back into the engine bay. Adding a filter the end of that will quiet it down even further.

Here's what 18psi on air-to-air looks like at sea level :icon17:
http://www.the370z.com/members/chase...5-img-2754.png

That's got a few other bits aswell
Rods pistons etc
Saw it on facebook the other day

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Saw that, I thought it was a different one that had a built engine not this one. A TT or something like that...

Yeah I talk with Phil quite often who built the car. I will be around the same psi with my build but will be on E. if I don't make 700 minimum I'll be upset. Lol

Daaam where is that car located? First time I've seen that thing...Those are very impressive numbers...I wonder how the piping is on that set up.

The piping is similar to tops first set where the volute stayed like it came from Stillen. He also has his BOV right before the throttle bodies which is a little different. And the dyno runs were without a filter on the supercharger.

Yeah I noticed that regarding the BPV placement. I wonder if his MAFs are still pre-blower.

I hope u hit ur goal Evan and hit the 700s man.....

Yeah they are on underside of pipework just before the manifold

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Without a filter any guy with my kit will make an extra 75whp if you take it off. I took mine off and was on my way to making well over 600whp but ran out of fuel around 6500rpms.


And it is pretty dumb to put the bpv after the intercooler. When you let off throttle the air coming out of that thing will melt light plastic (ive done it) and even at idle it still blows some very warm air. Why would you want to pre-heat soak your intercooler down when off throttle so when you go to get on it again you have more heat in the system?:shakes head:

:iagree:

I've seen some pretty insane numbers just by guys switching to just a screen on their turbo dynos.

Adding that heat to an engine bay that already has heat issues doesn't sound good.

That's kind of bullsh*t taking the filter off for the sake of inflating numbers on a dyno. Especially when a given company is basically using that form marketing saying "hey look how good we are!".

I could care less about someone's glory run, if that's not the setup they actually run..

Pick mine up from the shop tomorrow can't wait

Just got to swap out a leaky injector o ring and I can play :)

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