I have them all on the way here and might do just that. I most likely will not decide until I see what you two do on the dyno. I hope you both make big numbers!


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I'm going to Sebring Oct 3-4 to give this set up a track test.


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In my opinion, the front serpentine pulley should be the last one to downsize. It has the least amount of belt wrap (around 30%). The rear pulleys have over 50% wrap, a belt that is less likely to stretch under load, and are affected less by bracket-flex.

For the sake of minimizing belt-slip, it makes more sense to increase S/C rpms by changing the ratio of the rear pulleys or going with cogs. Or even take it a step further and upsize the front pulley to a high-traction 3.3".

When people start pushing this upgraded kit, the next road block is probably going to be belt-slip.

I'm having a brace built for mine to try to cut down on slipping but you make a good point, maybe I will do the back side a wait on the Stillen 9 lb pulley. Honestly I want do just do it all and say F it but I know that's probably not a good idea. That will probably still be 11-12 lbs.


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My kit is seeing 10.5psi with the Stillen 9 lb pulley and test pipes.

What whp/tq are you getting?

Remember, by going a2a we will realize more pressure drop than the original design. Probably about 1 to 1.5 psi.

Yes im on a built motor.

Pushed my dyno back a week. So im on for the 22nd.

Sunday I built a pool slash hot tub in my driveway. A truck and a shop vac have dual purpose.

Don't need to go for carb approval. Intercoolers on gas motors are not regulated and can be added, modified, or removed without issues even if the kit is aftermarket, so if you wanted to run an air to air intercooler over the supplied air to water setup its perfectly fine. However you would not technically be able to change the tune but no smog tech/bar tech can see if the tune has been altered so who cares.

Its funny how many things are not carb regulated in California.

Edit oh you would have to recirc the BPV as opposed to letting it vent to atmosphere but if the tech can't see it venting visually, you're fine, the smog techs can not legally tear apart your car just to inspect it, so if its out of sight no sense in worrying about it.

426WHP 336TQ :driving:

Did you ever dyno it on the 8lb pulley? I'm getting 418/312 on the stock Stillen set up but I am also at sea level + 10-20.

Those sound about right on the stock pulley I was making 412 and 300 WTRQ , stock set up, What PSI are you actually seeing tho, I was seeing 9 PSI.

I think it was 8.6-8.7, I have a AFR/ boost gauge but the boost is on the outside dial part so I don't pay a lot of attention to it.

Never dyno on the stock pully.

:/ Whys this ?

Labor and more dyno time, really was no need to.

Ok so you confused me, Why wouldn't you dyno on the stock pulley almost NO one runs their can tune, so you road tuned your car :/

BTW what labor? you drive car on the dyno strap it down and make 3 pulls for 70$ :icon14:

He's saying he never tuned it on the 8lb not that you shouldn't tune with the 8 lb if thats what your using.

Ah thanx man so he was happy with making 40 more WHP? Or was he one of those who made 400 WHP on the "Stillen tune". or just go right to the 9LBS and hold your breath that the motor doesn't pop ? Thanx JWillis72

I've seen him and others do the 9lb pulley with no problems. The ones that seem to have problems are on the 9lb and upgraded impeller.

Words never said by a turbo guy. One of the benefits to having your boost set by the pulley size:tup:

But what about belt slip? :tiphat:

Belt slip? It's a toothed belt

Well last night I decided to pull out the angle grinder and get at that frame lip. Took out a 3" section of it. The volute slips right in place now and the design into the IC will work great. This requires much more effort than cutting plastic off the fan guard. In fact, I still had to cut one of the guards off just so my angle grinder could get a flat plane to cut the lip off at.

However, I am now able to use just a 45* off the SC at an angle down to a 90* then its a straight shot into the front mount. Very minimal bends in this design. Only a total of 135* hot side and only about 30 inches of pipe.

Ill post pics this weekend.

Not on my setup and many others. And cogs can still jump. This actually was happening to Jtran with those.

I have been looking at my car and I like your idea. Not only do you end up with less pipe and bends but you also get the top pipe out of the way opening up more air flow coming out of the radiator to my hood vents.

bad news, the supercharger belt is walking off.

This is because the stillen bracket is so thin.

I ended up bending it by tightening the tensioner...

So back to square one. im making the plate tonight, im extending the tensioner slot for more tension. ill keep you guys in the loop

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...psszdu1cfj.jpg

Do you have a brace on yours? Also this is the 2.75 on the SC?


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[QUOTE=EVOHUNTER;3280007]bad news, the supercharger belt is walking off.

This is because the stillen bracket is so thin.
I ended up bending it by tightening the tensioner...
So back to square one. im making the plate tonight, im extending the tensioner slot for more tension. ill keep you guys in the loop

***********
You are absolutely right ... The Stillen Bracket [as is] wasn't intended to handle much more torque beyond it's design intent.

The SC'r is actually only supported by that less than substantial spacer that attaches the SC'r to the weakest part of the bracket - just no meat there and it's prone to leverage.
The SC'r is basically hanging out there on a flimsy limb.

When I got this far in to the build I decided to eliminate the spacer and machine an elongated plate extended in to the meatier part of the bracket mounted directly on to the main part of the Stillen bracket with 3 bolts or 2 bolts and a locator pin.

This would eliminate the flimsy 'fork' and 'spacer' arrangement and hopefully drastically reduce bracket flex, belt slippage and the tendence to walk off the pulley.

its crazy, the tensioner plate is literally less than a 1/4" thick! where the tensioner pulley goes. I almost done mine, i made it a 1/2" thick. Forged steal, she won't bend now lol

Yeah, with the 2.75 pulley.

OK so the bracket works perfect, No more flexing and my belt doesn't walk off anymore. I ended up using the stock idler pulley from stillen, this is because i extended the tensioner bracket.

Do you still dyno on the 17th?

Im on the 23rd at 9 AM :)

Ill be ready to go. I'm finishing up this bracket today. Painted the big supercharger bracket black as well. Ill have it back together in a few hours.
Got my evap/intake smoke tester here. ill smoke test to make sure theres no leaks on the intake block off plate and the intake piping.

:ughdance:

Did you take any pictures?

Anyone know where I can get the tall mounts for the MAFs?

Thank you!

okay bracket is done. here you can see how much stronger this will be.

Flipped over the tensioner corner bracket thingy.


http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...pseswbxy6b.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps5lyusrgm.jpg

Doesn't look like you have to worry about that bending! Guess I need to find a machine shop.

So did you make that yourself or have it fabbed by a shop?

my buddy did it for me for a case of beer at his cnc shop. :)