Sounds like that could be a tricky one. Has anyone looked into swapping the two 6 rib pulleys for 8 rib? It looks like it would fit. But then again if that would work why did some go cog?

Went with cogs for the ease and availability of changing S/C rpms. They are already run that way on the DE. You can run anywhere from a 32T-32T (1:1) to 34T-28T setup. Just have to change the idler pulley OD to make it all fit since there aren't many cog belt sizes.

Dynosty built some custom 8-rib pulleys for a Stillen S/C HR a few years ago and added a 50 shot. It's on their blog a long time ago, but it's easy to google.

I contacted ATI for a Superdampr a couple of years ago. They will custom make anything you want. I don't remember the price, but it was around $1000-$1200 for one, and $600-$800 if I could get a group buy. I was shooting for around a 6.25"-6.5" OD but gave up on the whole thing.

Did some good R&D on Sunday. Placed a massive order for all parts I think I will need and should be able to get some work done this coming weekend.

Who thinks the MAFS would work in their current location on the Y-pipe except a blow through with an air straightener right before the single inlet?

I think the MAFs preSCer are the majority of the problems with the Stillen kit.

Im excited to see what happens with this.

Id put the Mafs as close to the factory position as possible.

Im dropping my car off july 21 with sasha to start on the Air to Air.

ill keep u guys posted.

No. I mean using the Y-pipe as a splitter for the dual intake. I have a single outlet IC. After it comes out of the ic it goes into the engine bay on the passenger side only through the same route a CAI would and like my BP kit did since that shroud is already cut for the intake pipe. Right after going through that hole, I would mount the stillen Y-pipe and house my MAFS in there then place a pipe off each into each throttle body to the stillen mani. Basically, I could use the Y-pipe that has the maf inserts already in them instead of finding a different Y and MAF pipes. Obviously I would be taking both filters off.

Hence the "blow through". My question is... Is there enough pipe before the Y so the MAFS will get good readings? Or is that short distance from the Y of the pipe too short and cause turbulence leading to erratic readings?

Can't answer that one but why not use the intakes from the BP kit and just locate the MAFs in the factory location.

I don't think that there is room to Y it off if I use them. I might have to get creative and see though.

Stillen Air to Air setup
 

Shorten the passenger one and reroll the edge for the coupler. You could modify the driver or leave it as is

can't wait to see what happens with the 2 builds, ready to upgrade mine!

Was just going to go the E85/upgraded impeller route, but I'll wait and see

Ill be on E85 and decided I need to buy the Mortordyne ART test pipes.

This is what I have drawn up, nothing special but gives you guys an idea!

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...pscqqlbmos.jpg

Interesting. I have a series of questions though.

Are you going for CARB approval? Why are you recircing your dump back into intake and why are you plumbing into the valve cover?

Is your Y pipe sitting vertical and you are going to have one pipe underneath the other? Looks like that would be a long split.

Why do you have the BPV/BOV after the IC? This is going to pass hot air from the SC through the IC so at a standstill, any light, and such it is going to pre-heat soak your IC, isn't it?

Not going for CARB - only reason for this is because I don't want to change the vacuum routing. This is how the stillen kit was set up. The vacuum setup should be fine.

The one pipe will run under the one pipe only a bit, this is so I can maintain the equal length pipes up to the TBS. Giving us the same readings from bank1 to bank2. I want the Y pipe as close to the IC as possible. Don't want any turbulence to affect the MAFS.

I had a Corvette Z06 with a Votech system a few years ago. The Bypass was right after the IC on the intake pipe up too the TB, The Bypass was recirculated back into the intake Mani. So it should be fine?? But if its an issue I could always move it before the IC.

Edit, You are right.

By pass needs to go right after blower!

Checked out my old kit. that's how it was piped

Disregard how the "old stillen" was set up. That's what were trying to get away from anyway. Since you are on a blow thru setup now you can dump to atmosphere. The only reason not to is to reduce bypass noise. Just put a breather filter on your valve cover. The only reason that line is there is to supply a filter of sorts that you already have. You can eliminate 2 vacuum lines. But it will still work either way.

Is Sasha custom fabbing your Y pipe? I was going to use the Y from the stillen kit as mine. Then either place my MAFS there or move them closer to where you have them in your drawing. But then I will need to buy some MAF housing pipe and 3D print a couple of plugs to put in the old holes of the Y.

Just ordered my Motordyne ART test pipes. :happydance:


Who's looking for some low mileage Berk HFC's?

Were dumping that y pipe and making a whole new one.

Your right, im dumping those lines to the blower and venting the BPV to the atmosphere. Ill leave the lines from the intake mani to the valve cover alone.
I was thinking of putting a 1" breather filter on the bypass like they do it on the 2013 5.0 mustang votech kit.

What BPV are you using?

I have the raptor that is dual output or single if you want it to be. With it single to atmosphere it will be loud. But I like the sound. It might get a bit too loud after a while so I can make it dual and pipe one dump back into the intake behind the filter. If its still too loud then Ill dump it all in there. Not sure what ill do but it is a 5 minute fix either way.

The filter is a pre-cautionary measure for dust and will also dampen the sound. But make sure its tight or you will be shooting it at people.

I have the turbo smart Kompact Dual Port-25mm -

Ill put a 1" k&n breather filter on the one side, with the other side into the charge pipe after the blower. ill leave the vent to atmosphere cap on the bpv.

I thought in a previous post you said Aug. 20th with it on the dyno by the 30th. So he will have the car next week and you might be on the dyno before August?

You are correct. Were flying in Sebz from speciality Z to do our tuning.

They're coming around the 13th of aug now instead of the 30th.

so everything got moved around on our end.

But it worked out in the end!

Nice man! Eager to see what you guys get out of it!

Im guessing you will see much better results than me. I will lose 2psi from my crappy air pressure up here in Mile High Denver.

This year I'm only running the 9PSI pulley.

Ill be using Sasha's Injectors from his kit and his bigger fuel pump.

As of now, my motor build is going to be 8-10 weeks away.

So i won't be using my 13psi cog setup/impeller this year just because my engine won't be complete
:(

Next year - Cog setup, Return system. should be around that 500-525 who

I just want to get the kit done, get a good platform and move from there.

I should be dropping my car off tomorrow with sasha if every things good on his end.

I have the cog belts, just not the cogs themselves. Was going to go with 8 rib maybe. Less chance of walk.

How much psi increase are guys getting going cog?

It should see around 12.5 - 13 psi with the pulleys and impeller.

But it won't be this year because Specialty z is down in 2 weeks.
ill be keeping the stock pulleys system, stock impeller and 9psi stillen pulley this year.

Its been confirmed, Cars being dropped off with Sasha tomorrow!

Car was dropped off with Sasha, Hes ordering everything today that he does not have in stock. Ill keep u guys posted!

Nice man cant wait!

Update - Sasha made some good ground last night! He ditched the 2.5" intake into the blower, Built a 3" pipe into the blower, routed the filter down in front of the drivers front wheel. He mounted up the FMIC as well. He's building the MAF pipes tonight and intercooler piping. I do have some pictures but will wait until I speak with Sasha before I post up his work.

I'll start a new thread and post a lot of pictures shortly.

I wanted to go to the smaller SC pulley from Vortech but their calculator is telling me that with my pulley setup I will already be at 53K. I measured my pulleys and have the following.

Crank 5.75
Serp 2.90 - Black 9psi stillen pulley
Jackshaft - 3.2
SC - 3.2
SCI impellar upgrade

This will supposedly make 12psi at sea level. If all this is correct, then how can a guy make 16 psi if the supercharger is at max revs?

928 motorsports sells a rebuild kit that lets you spin it to 60k.

That would help. Im just confused by Vortech stating the V3 is capable of 17psi. How can they make a claim like that if it is maxed out in revs only producing 12?

I don't get that either.

I don't get it because guys are spinning them at 19Psi on the 5.0 mustangs, they arnt having any issues either.

Either way im gonna spin the F out of this blower lol

Well I would like to push this built motor. So if I could get it past 12psi I would love to. I mean you could push it to 60K but the bearings wont last long. I really don't know how the stang guys are doing it. Maybe I should get on that forum.

Unless the Vortech calculator is all off and my setup isn't really seeing 53K.

Anyone? Need some help here.

Dyno scheduled for the 15th!

That's the spirit!!

928 says they can be spun up to 72K and can run in the 60s all day.

928 Motorsports - Premium High-Speed Rebuild Kit for Vortech® Superchargers

The 350Z forum guys are doing it too. Almost every Vortech build thread on there is overspinning a SCi or Si.

In reality, It would see 52,000k etc.. at 7000-7500RPM.

You wont be a redline all the time, so I think it will be fine.

If you were tracking the car and constantly being at 6000-7500 rpm then I would look at the upgraded bearings!