to be honest, it doesn't lol.

Your mafs will only read iat temps now, so in theory you could leave them.

I will still check when I can get up there but it's probably going to be tomorrow.


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It matters if the motor will rely on accurate iats to advance/retard timing. They won't be accurate if the mafs are in backwards.

I could be wrong, but doesn't our mafs sensors have the IAT resister on the back side of the maf with the MAF signal sensor in the front? I think overall it should still receive the same temps inside the pipe no matter what. The stillen water to air setup still reads consistant iat temps with them backwards. We all know those IAT temps are not even close to what they read by the time that air hits the motor.

With that being said, it couldn't hurt to put them the right way if they are mounted wrong.

Evo I sent the shop a picture of yours and they are facing the correct direction.


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The stillen original setup still has them facing the same as every other kit or oem. It's just pull through like oem.

oh yah your right, my bad

Stillen Air to Air setup
 

Seb doing his magic today?

We are still waiting on the MAP, should be here today. This has turned into the never ending build, I dropped the car off 98 days ago today.

Dude I understand. My GReddy multi-gauge, even though I ordered it before the turbo kit, was the last thing to show up, like a week before I started the install. Sucks to possibly have your build delay because of a slow boat from China.

Guys, any idea why MAFs voltage are so far off?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11...513414f6f2.jpg


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I used GTR plugs, that shouldn't be a problem right?


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We switched the MAFs from side to side and the numbers didn't change so it's not them. Do you think that the MAF to TB distance not being the same could be a problem? I'm worried that the Y pipe isn't splitting the air evenly.

That was my first thought but I'm no tuner.

I'm next to positive the pipes are the problem. When I first installed the Stillen kit the car would go into a limp mode when it coasted, it ended up being that the guy that installed it left off the piece that blocked the lower filter so while coasting the lower MAF had more air flowing to it and kicked into a limp mode. I think the same thing is the problem now, more air is going into the outside pipe than the other pipe.


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I know from O&G piping systems that if you don't have equal length piping on your manifolds you'll get pressure differential across the different suctions. Could very well be what's happening. Question is, what's the fix?

Pressurize your system like I did and listen for leaks first. I'm not so sure it's from a bad pipe design. Mine runs perfect and my intake lengths are different and one side has way more bends before the throttle bodies.

Did you install the air straightener?

Also, start eliminating variables. Put your Bosch bpv back on.

We pumped it full of a crazy amount of smoke, it's not a leak. I bought air straighteners but I'm not sure that they used them. I think our next step is cutting up the cold side pipes and try to get a more even air split.


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The straighteners will help with those spastic readings.

When we get the pipe off we will look to see if they used them. The number stay apart, do you think installing one before the y would help it split more evenly?


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Are you using the MAF jumper / extension cables that came originally with the kit, if so check the volt readings on the cable. I had a faulty one that would cause my Z to occasionally go into limp mode. Replaced the jumper cable and never experienced it again.

Yes we are but we tested them yesterday and cant find a problem.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but does anyone know if the FI flex plate requires the spacer for the oem flex plate when it's installed? It doesn't show in the instructions and the flex plate is thicker, so I do not want to strip anything lol. Any help would be great. Thansk!

I never tried mine without it. But she idles like a champ. And mines installed right before the y. My thought was it does help to even airflow between sides.

We are going to try that and see if it helps.

Top, sometime this weekend would you mind taking me taking a few more pics of how your piping is on the cold side?


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My front clip is on now and I'm kind of displaced. I have 4 cars at my parent's place.

Okay, no problem. When the pipe goes into the engine bay does it turn up then back at the TBs?

No spacer.

This it's what it looks like. Its a 45 degree coupler coming into the y.

If you want, I'll send you the pipe sasha made. Evo says his is idling fine but it will max mafs out at 5K due to design.

At least that way you can see if yours is a bad design or not.

Can't you just shut off the MAF Voltage error code in the software so the software doesn't look for it? I just have the standard Stillen setup, but I've had to shut off a bunch of intake-related codes to get it to run without going into limp mode.

I don't think you can turn off the MAFs because you still need them for AITs.


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The shop is taking the y pipe off tomorrow morning so we can get a better look at how well the intake to the y looks. If it is hitting the y straight we are going to try mounting the air straightener but if it's not hitting y straight we are going to fix the y pipe before we move on.


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well the shop that did mu pipes blew it on the y pipe. The intake to it is in at an angle so its clearly not splitting evenly. Thinking about it now I think it's doing what it was when the kits was first installed. The shop that installed it left off the part that blocks the lower filter so when I would coast at 3-40mph one MAF was getting more air that the other and the car would go into some protective mode and go pig rich. Our thought right now is that while we are not trying to tune it with the MAFs the car is still going into that mode because of what it's seeing from the MAFs. First we are going to try to trick the car, we are going to attach both MAF signal wires to one MAF so they get the same reading and then see if we can get anything to change SD tuning it. If that doesn't work we will have to have a new y pipe made.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11...15525f8e2c.jpg


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Man! What a search for a problem! ! Awesome build!! Hope you fix that's and hit some major big numbers!! So frigging cool.

YzGyz

If you end up on the 'rebuild' path I would give them direction to have at least a small straight portion before the 'y'. It will also help to have that flow conditioner inserted too.

Sadly I had asked the shop that made this pipe to do both of those things. If we rebuild it I think we are going to do it like Evohunters, it's simpler takes up less space and with the MAFs in the same pipe they should get the same readings. Yes it will run out of MAF but I already have the 3 bar MAP for SD tuning so that shouldn't matter.