I've been without my car three weeks and I'm going crazy, I can't imaging waiting until next year.


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I've been without my car almost 2 years now ... Long Story ... and I'm absolutely NUMB from it.

It was supposed to a SC'r impeller and power upgrade that would take only 2 weeks.
6 months later it was "Done" >>> "Quite Literally - DONE" >>> as in much smoke and oil and a blown motor.

Finally had to abandon the SC'r project after another year long wait with nothing getting done and go TT.

I did drive down to Maryland last week to check on progress though.
We are in the last phases before Dyno Day [hopefully that is]...:icon08:...

Oh crap man, that sucks. I hope it works out for you! Why is it taking so long? We are changing motors in my friend supercharged C5 Z06 for the 2nd time in 4 months this weekend. I can't imagine waiting that long.


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Thanks for the sympathies !

Biggest reason for the delay is that the original shop doing the SC'r build bit off 'just a little more than they could chew' with the Z.

It was a 2 man operation and they did European cars and mostly bolt on upgrades...not custom fabrications...and with little to no experience with the 370.
After the motor blew [drove the car exactly 1 day] it [the motor] was sent to IPP in Texas <<< they did a great job.
It came back to N.J. last September - Just in time for the shop owner to take a 5 month hiatus.

So the car sat.

When he came back in March we realized that we weren't on the same page anymore - so I pulled the plug on the build and moved the car out of his shop and down to AAM in Maryland.
AAM has also been real good support wise and they are Nissan / Infiniti specialists.
But I have also upped the goals for power and performance as well.

The car is being converted to Flex Fuel with EcuTek tune.
AAM is developing a Twin Fuel Pump for the high HP thirsty Z's ...

That should be finished soon...and then it's Dyno Day.

Till then I be drivin' 55 :driving: in my G37

Dang that sucks, I was really hoping this was the direction I would take to keep things simple from a reputable source. Sorry it will take so long for your outcome. Positive side is this venture has created lots of interest, starting other builds! :tiphat:

It's not as bad as you think. If Sasha can find a way to get more cross sectional area for the MAFs then that should be the only fix needed. The rest should just be tuning and if you aren't in the tundra know as Canada you still can get it tune and enjoy it before winter sets in.

Just wasnt comfortable with my maf placement. Idled like **** but could be the base map tune. I modified my old 3" charge pipes from the bp kit and now they have a nice 6"s of straight pipe before them.

How do you plan to plug the old slots?

I put some bubble yum in them, then hit it with a heat gun.

Or...:-)

Bought hitachi style mafs, which is what we have, for $9 on ebay. Chopped them off at the pipe level.

Does it idle any better now?


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Did you also upgrade your fuel pump when you swapped out injectors?

No but we changed out the fuel system last year to the CJM 1.5 system to get rid fuel starvation so I think I will be okay.


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PPE headers showed up today and we moved the car to the shop that doing the piping. Hopefully they can start tomorrow. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...29f620b94d.jpg


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Sick man! How long was the wait for those?

6 weeks.


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They look grey in the pic for some reason but they are stainless steel with black ceramic coating.


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It wasn't the maf placement. It still idles around 1200then shoots up to 2000for a second then drops down to 1200. it Will repeat this about5Times then idles back at1200 for aabout 20 seconds then will drop to 800 and sound like it's going to di. But will jump back to 1200 after5 seconds. Then will repeat the whole scenario. Checked for vac leaks but can't find any. Did the throttle body reset for thinking it could be the new manifold.

Is it just the tune? Any other thoughts?

My car had a crazy idle like that at one point but it was a broken T on a vacuum line.

Ive checked and double checked the vacuum lines. I am fearing it may be the intake manifold gasket. I hate how hard it is to put on/take off this manifold. I blew some propane using an unlit torch head around the manifold where it bolts up and didn't notice any idle changes. I also blew some flammable brake cleaner on it and still nothing.

It's just crazy though that the crazy idle is in a cycle. Like its programed to go through the steps of my previous post. Can a vacuum leak do this?


I am beginning to think it might be because I have the new manifold and never had the "stillen" cable with the tune for that manifold and the car just doesn't know how to handle this new mani......?

That shouldn't be a problem, I used ecutek. No stillen cable.

DIY smoke machine, look it up!

If there is no leaks, then its just the tune.


I was looking into what we should do with that pipe.

I wanna go with a 3.5" pipe out of the intercooler. instead of a 3"

Then have a 3.5"-4.75" aluminum reducer. have the 4.75" pipe about 8" long
Then have the MAF extenders in the 4.75" pipe, then have 2 pipes out of the 4.75" maf pipe into the TBS?

Mine acted a lot like that, it's been a while so I don't remember the timing. It would be normal when I stopped at a light for a few seconds then jump up for a few seconds and then back to normal. It would do that a few time then start shaking when it dropped, because my car is a 7AT I would shift out of gear and rev it and it would all start over. It never stalled on me but I took it to the shop the next day and they found the leak.

Hey TopgunZ

Look even at this part:

The small tube leading from the plenum to the BOV.
If the hose is detached or broken, then it may lead to this behavior.

My thought...

Greetings
Ivo

****...I think its the manifold then.

I also had a problem similar to this with unstable idle and erratic throttle response.
Limped it to the dealers and they recalibrated the TB's.
That did the trick.

Idle relearn
 

Found these two examples/references to Idle Relearn on some other Nissan Sites ... probably applies to the Z as well.

The first example is a shortened techique and I think the guy got lucky.
The second is a bit more involved - that's why I took mine down to the dealer to have it done.
This all happened some time after the Stillen Kit was initially installed and the 'Tuner' tried to fix it but never got it right.


From other Nissan Forums:Hope this helps


Idle relearn after unplugging throttle body


I cleaned a throttle body on 2005 Altima 2.5 and when I started the car it was idling very fast. Between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. It was actually jumping from 1000 to 1500 constantly when in park. I tried the procedure listed in service procedure several times but it did not work. I read in the forum to change the procedure just a little bit. Here is the procedure that worked for me.
warm up engine to normal operating temp.
turn off all equipment such as defrosters, a/c radio etc
1. turn key switch off for 10 seconds
2. insure accelerator pedal is fully released turn ignition switch on for 3 sec.
3. with ignition still on depress accelerator fully 5 times within 5 seconds
4. wait 7 seconds then fully depress accelerator for approx 20 sec or until the
MIL or service engine soon light stops blinking and turns on.
5. release the accelerator within seconds after service engine soon light comes
on.
6. start engine within the mentioned 3 seconds.. I did it as soon as service
engine soon light came of solid. and the idle dropped to about 700 rpms
in park. Drove around block all well so far. stopped and started engine
and relearned was maintained.

NOTE: Service Engine Soon light must be off and all faults cleared before this
procedure works. Gene Mayberry



MORE DETAILED
Well, Nissan has now totally taken away the ability to adjust idle speed. Aside from making sure that ignition timing is correctly (which really is not adjustable except for a very small amount), the idle speed is programmed into the ECU, is not adjustable, and can only be reset by performing the idle-air relearn procedure. Of course, the idle-air relearn simply allows the ECU to re-discover if the target idle rpm is incorrect, allows it to readjust.

It CAN be done without the Consult, but is MUCH easier for the dealer by using the Consult.

Without the consult:

Perform accelerator released position relearn by NOT depressing the accelerator pedal at all:

1) Turn ignition on for at least 2 seconds.
2) Turn ignition off for at least 10 seconds.
3) Turn ignition on for at least 2 seconds
4) Turn ignition off for at least 10 seconds.

Perform throttle closed position relearn by:

1) Turn ignition on for at least 2 seconds.
2) Turn ignition off for at least 2 seconds.

THEN you can perform the idle-air relearn procedure:

1.PRECONDITIONING
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
• Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
• Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
• PNP switch: ON (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
• Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is
started the headlamp will not be illuminated.
• Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
• Vehicle speed: Stopped
• Transmission: Warmed-up

• Without CONSULT-III: Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
- M/T models
• Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

Without CONSULT-III
NOTE:
• It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
• It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has
a malfunction.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
- Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
- Fully release the accelerator pedal.
7. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
8. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
9. Start engine and let it idle.
10. Wait 20 seconds.

Idle speed CVT: 600 ± 50 rpm (in P or N position)
M/T: 600 ± 50 rpm (in Neutral position)
Ignition timing CVT: 12 ± 5° BTDC (in P or N position)
M/T: 12 ± 5° BTDC (in Neutral position)

Entering the ECU into the idle-air relearn follows the same procedure as pulling fault codes from the ECU, except once the CEL starts flashing, just keep the pedal to the floor. Once it stops flashing and turns solid, let off the pedal and start the engine.

Hope this helps,
Trav

Idle Relearn
 

Another link to download a PDF for the 2012 370z
http://www.vouma.com/how-to-relearn-...ssan-370z.html

And another interesting conversation from the UK 350z site
http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/78535-i...at-does-it-do/

Thanks for the info. I did try the throttle reset..however I did already have a cel. So I will try it again after I delete that.

Another issue is that I am idling now at 10in/hg. Isn't it supposed to be 17? This is why I think its vacuum leak related. Did anyone else notice such low vacuum when you seen this issue?

Hey topz, I think your high idle is causing the Hg to lower. When I rev my car to 1200-1250 rpm, my hg is 9-11 hg.

hope this helps :)

Top, are you still tuning this weekend?


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Just got it running great! Took it all off and put it back on. Not sure what it was but I'm ready to dyno tomorrow!! Stay tuned....

Awesome ... !!!
Looking to hear that magic '500' number !!!

What did you figure out with you BPV springs?

Which one did you end up using?

Blue spring. It's loaded on the dyno. Just waiting for the tuned to get here.

Good luck!


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Good luck man!

good luck bro!

More than 3 hrs to tune?

Patience young padawan, egger he is to post the results. :shakes head:

Im wondering as well!

Well. The 500 Mark has yet to be hit. I made 490whp and 390tq. This was at 5500ft elevation. Up here I only got 10psi out of the blower. At sea level I would have see 13psi and would have been close to 550whp.

Congratulations! Thats with the Stillen 9 lb pulley and the 2.75 on the supercharger?