Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

wheee!

Way to go team! lol It's like a pitstop... I burn in here with a fault and the crew comes to the rescue!

oh, btw, if anyone is interested, I have the local parts guy quoting the cost of the Cdn turn signal stalk with the foglight switch for those that are interested in going OEM for the foglight in the US...

__________________

JARblue

IIRC, the best price I found was $118 shipped. But that's way low on the list of priorities at the moment.

__________________

b15

Good luck, keep us updated

wheee!

FIXED!!!

I removed the clutch switch, opened it up, sanded the two sets of contacts and reassembled the switch. I now have zero ohms between the pins while clutch is depressed and the car fires everytime!!!!

Thank you 370Z.com Pit Crew!!! ++++ to everyone for helping!

__________________

b15

Boom. Now pull that steering lock fuse again!

wheee!

ugh.... unfortunately, I have to leave it in until the new steering lock goes in this week or next.... Parts came in last week but I am waiting for an appointment with my favourite dealer.

__________________

Bad Boy

How the hell did you remove it? I'm having the same issues and All I was able to do was unplug it. I tried using a wrench to get to the little nut but it wasn't budging, the metal frame surrounding the whole thing was bending a little so I didn't wanna force it...
I think Ima just take it to the dealer...

mults

For the clutch pedal switch, there is a welded 14mm square on the bracket that needs to be held with a wrench while you loosen the jam nut on the switch. Mine was tight as heck and it took a little bit to get it loose. I changed the one for the clutch pedal 3 weeks ago (about $26) and the issue went away for good...

__________________
40th Anniversary 'Z', 312.06HP/260.58TQ (Dynosty EcuTek Tune)
Build Date/Number: 1/27/2010 #706
Berk HFC + CBE, R2C CAI, Clear Bra, Cleveland Z Club[/COLOR]

Bad Boy

To be clear... both the outside welded and the inside nut are 14mm?
I did notice that the one on the outside is welded, but must it really be held in place if its welded?
I just went through my tool box and have all sorts of different wrenches except the 14mm
I tried using the adjustable wrench, but it never stays held on...
Plus how the hell did you guys manage to work with such confined space? The smallest wrench I can find is 6" and even that's too long...

jadeb0x

Same issue that I've been dealing with, thanks for the info!

__________________
www.jadecrew.com
Volk Racing // MXP // Espelir // Project Kics

wheee!

It's a PITA for sure. Keep in mind a new switch doesn't mean the problem is gone for good. The new switches are the same as the old ones and they will fail the same as the originals. Eventually, you will need to sand the connections or replace the switch again.

__________________

SouthArk370Z

Sanding the contacts is not the best solution. The contacts should be burnished (polished). Sanding leaves scratches that promote corrosion and erosion. You can get a contact burnishing tool at most electrical supply stores for $5 or so.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

cossie1600

You could also adjust it too, I shortened mine a little bit

JARblue

Any thoughts as to what might be causing the problem on Tracie's 7AT?

I was looking at this diagram from the service manual


as well as the diagram on this website trying to figure it out 251 Switch :: Body Electrical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 370Z Parts (Z34) 2009-2013 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

There are two switches for each the brake and clutch pedals. One switch on each pedal assembly appears to be basically the same thing: 25320N is the brake part and 25320Q is the clutch - both are called 370Z SWITCH ASSY-ASCD CANCEL on the parts website. In the service manual, the one on the brake pedal assembly is called the ASCD Brake Switch, and it makes sense to me that this would be the culprit. What throws me off is the equivalent ASCD switch on the clutch pedal assembly is referred to as the Clutch Pedal Position Switch and does not appear to be the switch that wheee! fixed to solve his problem. Is it possible that the other switch on the brake pedal assembly (#8 Stop Lamp Switch in the service manual) is the switch responsible for allowing the vehicle to start?

__________________

ChrisSlicks

There are 2 switches on the brake pedal as you found, one is the stop lamp switch and one is the brake pedal position switch. Both connect to the ECU via the BCM and it's not 100% clear which switch controls which function. For example pulling the stop lamp fuse disables the brake lights but also disables the throttle cut. The other one might be used for the park lock and start enable but that's just a guess.

I would test both brake switches with a multimeter for resistance.

__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms