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Good info, I figured that but I should be ok. Also reused the 6 lock washers on each axle on my g35 for over 100k miles without any issues. Well
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#1 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 50
Drives: 10g374dr6mt
Rep Power: 9 ![]() |
Good info, I figured that but I should be ok. Also reused the 6 lock washers on each axle on my g35 for over 100k miles without any issues. Well see how it holds up My g37 had bolts with large diameter heads which is different.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 314
Drives: 2017 Nismo Tech 6MT
Rep Power: 3938 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Decided to tackle this today. Previously had this problem on my '06 Infiniti G35 coupe. Back then, I took the regrease and rotate 180 degrees route and didn't have any additional issues. So, I'm considering this preventative maintenance. I also like that the axle nut is black (also comes in plain stainless steel). For those like me with aftermarket wheels without center caps, it is more asthetically pleasing than the crappy OEM adjusting cap.
This method seems more durable. I had trouble sourcing the Kawasaki nut so I found an equivalent at ProBolt-USA.com. I did need (3) spring washers per side to position the axle nut correctly to be secured by the cotter pin. Part Numbers Nissan spring washer 40037-1CA0A (Qty=6) Nissan cotter pin 00921-5402A (Qty=2) Pro-Bolt M24x1.50 Stainless Steel Axle Nut Black LSSNUT24150001Z2BK(Qty=2) Since I have a '17 and the rear axle click has not yet presented, I didn't feel the need to regrease with the M77 moly paste. ![]() ^Stock configuration ![]() ^Stock configuration close-up ![]() ^Deformation of the flimsy adjusting cap after 25K miles ![]() ^Adjusting cap removed ![]() ^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut without adjusting cap ![]() ^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut with adjusting cap. You will see that the castellated nut is shorter and will require more washers ![]() ^Necessary parts (catellated axle nuts, spring washers, and cotter pins). The new axle nuts come with a packet of anti-seize ![]() ^Comparison of the new axle nut with three washers and the OEM axle nut with one washer ![]() ^New axle nut installed, torqued to spec, and secured with new cotter pin ![]() ^Finished product
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SOLD2017 370Z Nismo Tech 6MT PART OUT IN PROGRESS Work | Motordyne | Powertrix | Swift | Michelin | Takeda | Hotchkis | RJM | Voodoo13 | SPL | SPC | Z1 Motorsports | ZSpeed | Morimoto | Craft Square Last edited by k67p67; 09-14-2019 at 09:01 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 972
Drives: slower than before
Rep Power: 388 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This looks so good I want to go do it even though I don't have the clunk.
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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.| |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: OH
Posts: 88
Drives: '14 370z roadster M6
Rep Power: 1066 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I just started having the click on my 14 370z at 36k miles. Trying to determine what route to take.
1) Call dealer to see if they will fix for free under the bulletin. Some on the forum said it may be covered under powertrain warranty, others said it isn't. Or even if there is a cost still have dealer fix it. Typically dealer warranties their work for 12 months. 2) Try to grease the axle shaft as per the bulletin 3) Go through the entire process of greasing and installing the kawasaki nut as juld0zer mentioned. Here is a video of the clicking sound on my Z, rear driver side, when pressing gas pedal or taking foot off gas pedal. Since my z is a manual, i get two clicks as i shift into each gear and have to take foot of gas and apply it again. So does drive me a little crazy. https://youtu.be/H4Jh3YqF-BQ attaching the bulletin in case anyone needs it NTB12-055f CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE if i was to do it myself, wonder if i really need to get that molly grease from honda or if i can just use the permatex anti seize lubricant that AARONHL mentioned (i already have that in my garage). |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: OH
Posts: 88
Drives: '14 370z roadster M6
Rep Power: 1066 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I went in hoping that powertrain warranty would cover it. Oh well, at least the clicking is gone, it was driving me crazy with the top down or the windows down. Plus it's loud and everyone can hear it when i'm rolling through the lot. The mechanic also mentioned that in automatics the clicking only happens once during takeoff because the torque is applied and held. But on manual cars (like mine) the clicking will happen as you apply torque and remove torque (which is what happens when you press gas and let it go). See attached screenshot of dealer invoice. Last edited by vman12; 10-15-2019 at 06:46 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: GTA
Posts: 368
Drives: 2010-Red-6spd-S/T
Rep Power: 15757 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
It has nothing to do with the grease, nothing at all. Yes greasing is apart of the process but it is a SMALL part of it. You need a properaxle nut from Kawasaki and you need to get rid of that stupid cheap crap bottle cap retainer that you slip the cotter pin through. I swear. Nissan needs to grow a pair. CSC, clicks, engine cooling etc. If the new Z has small issues like this I doubt Nissan will fix them if they could not do it for this Z for the past 10 years. If that's the case I rather pull the trigger on a new Supra. Oh who am I kidding. . . I'd grab the new Z anyways and continue to bitch about it on this forum with you lot
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 805
Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo
Rep Power: 40657 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
From FSM: • When installing drive shaft, change the drive shaft and wheel hub and bearing assembly matching marks put at the removal step by 180 degree. • Use the following torque range for tightening the wheel hub lock nut. : 100 – 105 N·m (10 – 11 kg-m, 74 – 77 ft-lb)
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