FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

Senna-F1

Says who?

hotprops

185Nm=140 foot lbs my torque wrench is only indexed in ft lbs

Senna-F1

I know how to convert units of measure. Where are you getting your information from that says the nut requires that amount of torque? If you look at my posts right above yours, same page, you'll see I looked very carefully into what the proper torque rating should be. In the end, I ended up with a screenshot taken at a Nissan Dealership who had access to the Electronic Service Manual last updated Nov 2016.

hotprops

says the op on top of page 8 185 nm

AARONHL

What size threads are on the axle ends?

brianx42

Are the part numbers the same for 2014?

2014:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...7717&siteid=14

2011:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...3432&siteid=14

I can't really spot the difference in parts. If anyone can clarify, that would be great.

2014 parts needed to fix this problem:

Kawasaki Axle Nut Part number (2) 92210-0280
OEM Spring Washer: (2) 43037 & (2) 43037+A
Cotter Pins: (1) 43262A & (1) 43262AA

Are the part numbers correct? One of the guys here mentioned the spring part number is 40037-1CA0A but I can't find this part. I wonder if it was a typo from 40037 to 43037??

AARONHL

I am fairly confident that I fixed the axle clicking issue without the need for a new aftermarket nut or washer. I did the following on my older G35 when I replaced the wheel bearings (because there was a TSB to put moly grease on the axle flange) and never had one axle click with the car. As soon as I got my G37 I noticed the clicking daily.

So today I decided to take the axles out...cleaned up the splines and faces, grease up the axle, hub, and splines. When I put everything back on, I tightened the oem axle nut very tight. I used a steel pipe and breaker bar to really get on the nut. I don't have a ftlbs bar that goes over 75 but I can tell it is way over the FSM setting of like 80lbs, probably somewhere over 120 (did it while the car was on the ground with the wheel center cap off). The axle nuts came off too easy when I took them off the first time.

I took the whip for a quick drive and I didn't hear one click. It was just clicking constantly yesterday so I feel something I did worked !!

I realize most of you guys have newer Zs/Gs and can't touch the car while its under warranty...but maybe you can give it a try?

Here are the pictures: you can get this permatex anti seize at autozone and many other stores. I use it on pretty much ever bolt on my car too
Also the pictures don't show the inner side of the wheel hub, I lathered that up with anti seize too, making sure I got the face of it where the axle rests. And the inside hub splines too.

Attached Images

	IMG_1282.JPG (61.7 KB, 84 views)
	image1.JPG (59.0 KB, 62 views)

axmea?

/\ this is correct. The hubs needs cleaning as well.

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AARONHL

Yes I basically cleaned the whole setup in an out. BOTH sides of the wheel hub and splines, plus the splines and flange on the axle itself. One of the axles had some black grime in the splines so I wire brushed it to clean metal first.

Not sure if this matters or not...the only thing I am thinking about is the oem washer that goes on before the axle nut. I noticed the washers on both sides were not flat, like the hub deformed them. So when I put everything back on each side, the washers were put so they looked like this on the hub []> if that makes sense. To kinda act as like a lock washer that gets crushed and holds the nut. Based on the wear stains on the washers, I think I flipped the washers the opposite way of how they were before I took them off. I don't remember how the washers were on my G35 when I did this year ago with that car.

JARblue

Good job on the fix. The stock nut will be fine. I just like the castle nut because I know it won't loosen like the adjusting cap tends to do.

FWIW, the spring washers are intended for one time use and should be replaced. That is why they look deformed.

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AARONHL

Good info, I figured that but I should be ok. Also reused the 6 lock washers on each axle on my g35 for over 100k miles without any issues. Well see how it holds up My g37 had bolts with large diameter heads which is different.

k67p67

Decided to tackle this today. Previously had this problem on my '06 Infiniti G35 coupe. Back then, I took the regrease and rotate 180 degrees route and didn't have any additional issues. So, I'm considering this preventative maintenance. I also like that the axle nut is black (also comes in plain stainless steel). For those like me with aftermarket wheels without center caps, it is more asthetically pleasing than the crappy OEM adjusting cap.

This method seems more durable. I had trouble sourcing the Kawasaki nut so I found an equivalent at ProBolt-USA.com. I did need (3) spring washers per side to position the axle nut correctly to be secured by the cotter pin.

Part Numbers
Nissan spring washer 40037-1CA0A (Qty=6)
Nissan cotter pin 00921-5402A (Qty=2)
Pro-Bolt M24x1.50 Stainless Steel Axle Nut Black LSSNUT24150001Z2BK(Qty=2)

Since I have a '17 and the rear axle click has not yet presented, I didn't feel the need to regrease with the M77 moly paste.


^Stock configuration

^Stock configuration close-up

^Deformation of the flimsy adjusting cap after 25K miles

^Adjusting cap removed

^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut without adjusting cap

^Comparison of the Pro_Bolt castellated axle nut and the OEM axle nut with adjusting cap. You will see that the castellated nut is shorter and will require more washers

^Necessary parts (catellated axle nuts, spring washers, and cotter pins). The new axle nuts come with a packet of anti-seize

^Comparison of the new axle nut with three washers and the OEM axle nut with one washer

^New axle nut installed, torqued to spec, and secured with new cotter pin

^Finished product

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B&W_Evader

This looks so good I want to go do it even though I don't have the clunk.

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vman12

I just started having the click on my 14 370z at 36k miles. Trying to determine what route to take.
1) Call dealer to see if they will fix for free under the bulletin. Some on the forum said it may be covered under powertrain warranty, others said it isn't. Or even if there is a cost still have dealer fix it. Typically dealer warranties their work for 12 months.
2) Try to grease the axle shaft as per the bulletin
3) Go through the entire process of greasing and installing the kawasaki nut as juld0zer mentioned.

Here is a video of the clicking sound on my Z, rear driver side, when pressing gas pedal or taking foot off gas pedal. Since my z is a manual, i get two clicks as i shift into each gear and have to take foot of gas and apply it again. So does drive me a little crazy.

https://youtu.be/H4Jh3YqF-BQ



attaching the bulletin in case anyone needs it
NTB12-055f CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE

if i was to do it myself, wonder if i really need to get that molly grease from honda or if i can just use the permatex anti seize lubricant that AARONHL mentioned (i already have that in my garage).

Attached Images

	NTB12-055f 1.jpg (72.1 KB, 37 views)
	NTB12-055f 2.jpg (66.6 KB, 34 views)
	NTB12-055f 3.png (53.6 KB, 22 views)
	NTB12-055f 4.jpg (69.1 KB, 24 views)
	NTB12-055f 5.png (62.0 KB, 20 views)

Senna-F1

Hmmm. I think most people notice the axle click when going very slow in transitions from 1st to reverse and back again. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone mention this noise when driving and shifting. So before you get to deep into this, make sure it’s really the axle click and not something else. You should hear it when maneuvering out of parking spaces etc.