FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

juld0zer · 01-04-2017, 07:40 PM

I sold the car a few years ago. It was still good by the time i sold it too

Wonka2581 · 01-23-2017, 12:55 PM

Looking for the rear axle / hub torque specs. I have tried to find them but I have come up empty handed. Trying to fix the rear axle clunk noise. Thanks.

Wonka2581 · 01-23-2017, 04:50 PM

Also check out this video I found. Dude used lock tight on the axle splines? Thoughts on this instead of grease?

https://youtu.be/3ipx1OWx3kk

JARblue · 01-23-2017, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581

Looking for the rear axle / hub torque specs. I have tried to find them but I have come up empty handed. Trying to fix the rear axle clunk noise. Thanks.

Different for different years. Check FSM rear axle (RAX) documentation. My 2011 FSM says 100-105 Nm for the wheel hub lock nut. I think some years call for something in the 80-85 Nm range - I don't remember exactly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581

Also check out this video I found. Dude used lock tight on the axle splines? Thoughts on this instead of grease?

I would say that's not a big deal, but I probably wouldn't bother. He makes a good point that the splines aren't supposed to be moving at that location. The proper % moly lube (really should be more of a paste) is fine, too.

Wonka2581 · 01-23-2017, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Different for different years. Check FSM rear axle (RAX) documentation. My 2011 FSM says 100-105 Nm for the wheel hub lock nut. I think some years call for something in the 80-85 Nm range - I don't remember exactly.

I would say that's not a big deal, but I probably wouldn't bother. He makes a good point that the splines aren't supposed to be moving at that location. The proper % moly lube (really should be more of a paste) is fine, too.

Awesome thank you. Mine is a 2011 as well!! Also the rear differential bolts for the axle torque specs? If you have them that would be awesome!!

JARblue · 01-23-2017, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581

Awesome thank you. Mine is a 2011 as well!! Also the rear differential bolts for the axle torque specs? If you have them that would be awesome!!

79.4 Nm (59 ft-lb)

You know with as many technical questions as you ask, you should really download a copy of the FSM

There are links in the Service section of the forum (or just look for a SouthArk post - the links are in his signature).

juld0zer · 01-26-2017, 07:44 PM

lol folks it's 100-105Nm for cars with spring washer and beer cap or 180-185Nm for what i assume is cars with just the nut and cotter pin.

It's been a while but i think i used 185Nm and then a big breaker bar to bump the new Kawasaki castellated nut onto the next slot for the cotter pin to go thru.

Boss_302 · 03-20-2017, 11:50 AM

I know I don't have the socket in my tool box for this nut. So before I pull it apart can someone tell me what size socket is needed.
Thanks

Boss_302 · 04-10-2017, 06:52 AM

So I answer my own question after fixing my issues with the rear frame bushing and axle clicking. The socket for the axle nuts are 32mm, this is both for the factory nuts and the upgrade.

Cbtech · 04-12-2017, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boss_302

So I answer my own question after fixing my issues with the rear frame bushing and axle clicking. The socket for the axle nuts are 32mm, this is both for the factory nuts and the upgrade.

This would have been a good heads up for me today haha. got the job done and found that the right rear nut was loose enough for me to remove the stock nut without the use of a breaker bar

Senna-F1 · 10-05-2017, 02:28 AM

The TSB. Torque for axle nut not given.

Senna-F1 · 10-05-2017, 02:55 AM

Anyone know the Torque spec for the 370z? Here is how it changed for the 350z

From Service Manual to the TSB.

Senna-F1 · 10-05-2017, 03:15 AM

Also, some confusion on which cotter pin to use. Make sure you get the right one!

The one from the TSB and mentioned in this thread, which isn't a match for my '14 Nismo, but is a match for say a 2010 Base 370z...

Nissan Part No.: 40073-0L700
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...073-0l700.html

Or the one that is a match for my '14 Nismo...

Nissan Part No.: 00921-5402A
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...921-5402a.html

Which one are y'all using, and which Z do you have?

JARblue · 10-05-2017, 07:51 AM

I torqued mine to 85 ft-lbs. It's been three years since I did the fix, and I've had no issues at all on my 2011. With the cotter pin situated properly, the torque spec really shouldn't matter as long as the nut is tightened down sufficiently (i.e. not loose).

Senna-F1 · 10-12-2017, 11:01 AM

Got a screen shot of the ESM referenced in the TSB. It’s still shows 74-77 ft-lbs for the axel nut. Not sure what years or if it matters but I told them to look it up for my 2014 Nismo. Main point is it doesn’t seem to have changed with the TSB. So, probably should use whatever your manual shows.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-04-2017, 07:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 140	I sold the car a few years ago. It was still good by the time i sold it too Wonka2581 likes this.

01-23-2017, 12:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
Wonka2581 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 3,083 Drives: MY WIFE CRAZY.... Rep Power: 2613	Looking for the rear axle / hub torque specs. I have tried to find them but I have come up empty handed. Trying to fix the rear axle clunk noise. Thanks. __________________ "I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

01-23-2017, 04:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
Wonka2581 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 3,083 Drives: MY WIFE CRAZY.... Rep Power: 2613	Also check out this video I found. Dude used lock tight on the axle splines? Thoughts on this instead of grease? https://youtu.be/3ipx1OWx3kk __________________ "I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

04-10-2017, 06:52 AM	#9 (permalink)
Boss_302 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NY NY Posts: 150 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z S Mt Rep Power: 14	So I answer my own question after fixing my issues with the rear frame bushing and axle clicking. The socket for the axle nuts are 32mm, this is both for the factory nuts and the upgrade. JARblue, Cbtech and redondoaveb like this.

10-05-2017, 03:15 AM	#13 (permalink)
Senna-F1 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Cary, NC Age: 55 Posts: 425 Drives: 370SC,EliseSC,MR2T Rep Power: 51	Also, some confusion on which cotter pin to use. Make sure you get the right one! The one from the TSB and mentioned in this thread, which isn't a match for my '14 Nismo, but is a match for say a 2010 Base 370z... Nissan Part No.: 40073-0L700 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...073-0l700.html Or the one that is a match for my '14 Nismo... Nissan Part No.: 00921-5402A https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...921-5402a.html Which one are y'all using, and which Z do you have? Last edited by Senna-F1; 10-05-2017 at 03:17 AM.

01-26-2017, 07:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 140	lol folks it's 100-105Nm for cars with spring washer and beer cap or 180-185Nm for what i assume is cars with just the nut and cotter pin. It's been a while but i think i used 185Nm and then a big breaker bar to bump the new Kawasaki castellated nut onto the next slot for the cotter pin to go thru.

03-20-2017, 11:50 AM	#8 (permalink)
Boss_302 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NY NY Posts: 150 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z S Mt Rep Power: 14	I know I don't have the socket in my tool box for this nut. So before I pull it apart can someone tell me what size socket is needed. Thanks

10-05-2017, 07:51 AM	#14 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	I torqued mine to 85 ft-lbs. It's been three years since I did the fix, and I've had no issues at all on my 2011. With the cotter pin situated properly, the torque spec really shouldn't matter as long as the nut is tightened down sufficiently (i.e. not loose). Senna-F1 likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

10-12-2017, 11:01 AM	#15 (permalink)
Senna-F1 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Cary, NC Age: 55 Posts: 425 Drives: 370SC,EliseSC,MR2T Rep Power: 51	FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise Got a screen shot of the ESM referenced in the TSB. It’s still shows 74-77 ft-lbs for the axel nut. Not sure what years or if it matters but I told them to look it up for my 2014 Nismo. Main point is it doesn’t seem to have changed with the TSB. So, probably should use whatever your manual shows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk osbornsm likes this. __________________ 618 WHP.452 WTQ.4" Python Intake.15 psi.e50.Topgunz SC.SOHO Tune.S1SE.STG 4 Clutch.Motordyne LTH/Test Pipes/Exhaust.485 Pump.1050x Last edited by Senna-F1; 10-12-2017 at 11:12 AM.

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