FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

SennaZ

Digging this up. I just did the job this past weekend as described by the OP. And it...WORKED!
Only thing is, OP said he used 2 washers, others said 3. I used...4. I used two new spring washers, the original, and went to Ace Harware and found a steel flat washer that was 98% perfect fit.

When greasing it, i knocked axle in just so that the tip of it was flush with the hub centric ring of the hub, so about maybe an inch in, laid some mobil 1 synthetic grease my buddy had in there with a mini brush and then the new nut pulled the axles back out.

i set torque wrench to 80 (factory) to see where'd that get me and the hole for cotter pin was about almost halfway to the next slot. I set torque wrench to a much higher number for curiosity to see if it would click by time i got to the next slot. It lined perfectly when it clicked at about 130 foot pounds. Funny how turning it a maybe a centimeter required a 50% increase in torque.

The old nut i got off with an impact gun and it put up less of a fight than my wheel nuts. Not on there very tight at all.

In fact, i'm certain the grease did next to nothing and the real issue was getting that axle nut to an acceptable torque rating.

My friend was dumbfounded when i told him factory rating was only 75 or 80 pounds as he said my 300zx was like 180 I'm pretty sure and his e46 m3 was over 200. So going up to 130 really shouldn't be an issue. Cotter pin fit very nicely in the castellated slot. My old adjusting cap wasn't destroyed, but it was widened at where the cotter pin was.

My car had the clicking bad. 140k miles. Every single pull away or lifting off accelerator in 4th gear and lower resulted in a click. Car drives smoother now, like it was actually causing extraneous lash besides just a sound.

Very appreciative of the OPs post for this idea as I'm certain it won't ever come back now with a well designed nut on there and torque spec that almost makes sense.

Zyonara91

Have to carry this out on my Z once the quarantine is over.

Wanted to ask, could I use Permatex Copper anti-sieze instead of the Moly 77 or any other grease? Also when applying the lubrication, is it okay if apply it on the bolt on which the castle nut tightens onto or would that mess with torque specs etc?

I would obviously grease the splines of the axles when the nut is removed, just wanted everyones 2cents, cheers.

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2FT3PDLZ

Rusty

There is different torque spec's. A Dry spec, and a Wet spec. About 95% of the time. It's a Dry spec that gets used. A Dry spec is no grease, oil, or any lube is used. A Wet spec is where some type of lubricant is used. It will spec what type of lube and where area it is applied to. It could be on the threads only, or under the head of the or washer.

So, read the manual.

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babyzilla

I just finished taking care of the CSC issue on my car and literally a week later I start hearing the clicking noise lol

Someone else asked what exactly is the impact of this issue/ what happens if you don't get it fixed (other than the annoying click)? Bringing this up because it was never answered, at least not that I saw.

I don't have any of the right tools to fix this issue and I live in an apartment, so it's difficult for me to work something like this. I refuse to go to a Nissan dealership especially if they are charging to fix this.

Zyonara91

I just did the change per the information that was given here. I got the Kawasaki axle nuts and the rest the material from Nissan. I did not re use the washer that was already behind the original nut, I just bought three new washers (six total) for the swap.

I could not push my axles in to grease the spline, I don't know why but whatever, I still applied the Permatex copper anti-sieze lubricant in there.

For now the clicking is not there, let's see if it comes back or not. I torqued the new axle nuts to 85lbs, then put the cotter pin in.

If you can't do it on your own, ask your buddies if they can help. Which man WOULDN'T enjoy working on a Z? Pay them in beers and Mcdonald's for lunch/dinner. Done.

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JARblue

For the record, I have put more miles on the car since the fix than it had before the clicking issue arose. No issues since and upon recent inspection every still looks to be extremely secure after about 60K miles.

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Zyonara91

Hey JB, thanks for the update, it is greatly appreciated. I hope all is well with the car and it stays that way.

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babyzilla

Another question: is this issue specific to any location in terms of left/right or rear/front? Seems like most people who experience this issue have the clicking coming from the rear. In my case, the clicking seems to be coming from the left rear. Just curious to know. Thanks.

redondoaveb

Only from the rear (drive wheels).

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750whp/700ft.lbs

BlackZMamba

agreed! Mine was the right side but I'll be doing the left too since I already did one side and bought parts for both.

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BlackZMamba

This was such an easy fix it's not even funny. I couldn't find the stupid recommended grease so I just used Valvoline Moly grease that was less than $6 a large tube at Advanced Auto Parts. The only thing that was somewhat pricey was the nut from Nissan ($14 and some cents per nut), and the caps and washers were somewhere a little over $4 each I believe. I got the cotter pins from them for free. I didn't remove the anxles or anything. I used a super small and thin flat head screwdriver to apply the grease and fit it and push it into the splines since i didn't have anything small and thin enough to apply it. It worked!

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JARblue

If you just used the stock nut and adjusting cap from Nissan, you may encounter the same issue down the road

But hey, an easy fix is an easy fix

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Asus_

Lol so i was scrolling through the site looking at threads that have had recent posts, and i come across this thread. upon reading, this sounds exactly like an issue im having that i only legit noticed last week. well...... time for a diy :P

Zyonara91

Literally takes 40 mins to do. Get the Kawasaki Axle nuts from "Snow, City Marine" in Scarborough (call them first), the part numbers are listed in this thread already in the beginning. I also recommend getting SIX new washers (three per each side that go behind the axle nut), do not re use the old washers that are behind the original nut when you take it off.

Cotter pins? Get four, in case you mess one them up or do not like how you bent it to retain the nut. Make sure when you torque the nut you do 85lbs, you may have to torque it more to get the holes to align, but that's alright. Once aligned, slip the cotter pin in and use a hammer to bonk the top to get it down as much as possible THEN bend long portion of the pin.

I used the e-brake to lock the rear wheels, but make sure you secure the front wheels with a chauk. If you do not want to torque in the "air" then what you should do is remove the centre cap from the rear tires, mount them, lug nuts on, put the car down, then torque and then jack the car back up, remove wheels and slip in the cotter pins. Though torquing it to 85lbs in the air was no issue.

My gf at the time always said I spend to much time on the car and that I was obsessed with it. I'm a stickler for doing things rights and treating everything I own with respect because ultimately its a reflection of who I am as a person. Working on my car is a stress reliever and any woman who complains and criticizes you about your hobbies should be shown one thing and one thing only and that's the door.

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babyzilla

Anyone in the DMV area willing to lend me a hand to correct this issue? Of course I will reward your time...and I'm COVID free Please let me know. Thanks!