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Originally Posted by sirnixalot so could you not then do a spacer for the upper water neck? Due to the male/female interface between the water return pipe and the upper
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Due to the male/female interface between the water return pipe and the upper water neck there, I believe the spacer would have to be quite thick. I think it would push the water neck out quiet a bit further than anyone liked, and also interfere with the dipstick upper mounting tab.
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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If and when I pull my tranny for a clutch. I think I might look into this deeper.
I'm so used to working on cars with the thermostats on the upper radiator hoses. Sometimes things like this I overlook.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Just figured i'd through in my 2 cents.
My CSF radiator started leaking after 1.5 years (just after warranty) and couldn't get it covered. CSF and Z1Motorsports swore it was an anomaly so I purchased a a new one using my own money. Guess what?... 1.5 years later, the new one started leaking as well! I'm in the process of working with Z1 trying to get this one covered. If I can get a refund, you can be sure I'm not going with CSF again. I don't know if it's the materials or the construction, but it's crap either way. 2 leaking radiators, both 1.5 years after purchase. That's all I have to say. Russ |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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On my second CSF as well, i should have just stuck with the oem rad
Quote:
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I called a few local radiator shop. Some only buy sell, others repair or make special to order needs. When I mentioned that it was a aluminum rad and leaking where the end tank and fins connect, the owners all said, "sorry, can't fix that. I can get you a new one though." He explained to me that the end tank connection and the fines metal are to different in thickness. The fines will melt to a blob before you get penetration on the weld on the tank side. The shops that do repair them use epoxy and that is just a band aid. It will fail and you don't know the time frame. Two of the many shops I called said the exact same thing. So yes, it sucks that the CSF failed. Cost me good time and $ but it was nice when it worked. Just not worth the $700+ in material and labor IMO.
YzGyz |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I really don't know what product some people use to fix the rad. All I konw is that I'm bitter over the whole thing. $500 for the rad, $100 to get my Freon evacuated and recharged (x2 so $200, first CSF install now the oem), tow fee (lucky my insurance has tow service for $50 or something like that), time stranded (priceless), and time wrenching (probably 2-3 hours the first time and 2 hours the second time).
All I'm going to say is stick to OEM, and pass on the CSF. You should not have that many issues on a product marketed as professional and sold at that price. YzGyz |
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#12 (permalink) |
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I will say it again stay with the oem radiator and if you are function over form guy then open up your front bumper and get a vented hood or hood vents. I have had no issues with over heating or high water temperatures since I put vents in my front bumper. I had a Fugimura hood when I first put the vents in and since then I have switched back to my oem with Trackspec hood inserts and the temps are never out of the normal range even at the track.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Lots of unfortunate news in this thread.
I was intending to install a CSF radiator as I progress the Z build; it's currently sitting in the center of my floor and I have zero intention of installing it after reading these long term reports. Will probably just punch a whole through the center and get whatever I can for the item's weight in scrap. I can't intentionally re-sell this thing to someone while fully knowing it may cost them an engine. At this point it seems the best feature was how it looked coming out of the box , what a damn shame. Time to start shopping for a vented hood. Last edited by bushyguy; 02-06-2018 at 04:12 PM. |
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