![]() |
Talking about the Z M/T with SRM. I know I have to change my "drive" thing. I don't ever switch to first. I find it pointless. If I'm coming to
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Track Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New York City
Posts: 938
Drives: 370z Pearl White
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() |
Talking about the Z M/T with SRM. I know I have to change my "drive" thing.
I don't ever switch to first. I find it pointless. If I'm coming to a stop sign I usualy just hold the clutch down and rolling look both ways and continue on 2nd gear taking off really slow. If I'm coming to a stop sign on a busy street I hold the clutch down (put it on first gear but continue to roll without letting go the clutch.) Make a complete stop 1st gear is already in with the clutch being held so then i let go the clutch slow and proceed. I don't drive with the s-mode on. I wanna practice and understand the car first, learn how to down shift as well. After I master all of that then I'll use the SRM, fix my clutch that is kicking back a lot and too high up as well |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Track Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: N/A
Posts: 899
Drives: slidewayz
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I was googling about it last night and ran into your thread
__________________
Powerhouse Amuse | K&N Typhoon Intakes | MotorDyne ART Pipes | Borla Catback Exhaust | B&M Short Shifter | Intake Ducts | Ichiba 25mm F/R Spacers | Carbon Fiber Interior Vinyl Wrap | Tints | 10000k HIDs | Vtak, yo! |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,089
Drives: 40th 370z
Rep Power: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I use engine braking as much as possible, always have, always will. IMO it is a safer alternative to throwing it in neutral and coasting, because if for whatever reason if you have to move and your in neutral its going to take a significant amount of time to get moving again.
I am not sure what sort of wear and tear you speak of? With SRM clutch wear is pretty much obsolete. Not to mention you are using your brakes less and running cool air through the engine while it slows down. Plus it sounds cool! lol
__________________
2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her ![]() My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) | |
|
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,130
Drives: 2016 Solid Redz
Rep Power: 247 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Base Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 63
Drives: '11 Nissan 370Z M6
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
My clutch pedal is never held depressed for any period of time. When decelerating, I shift down through the gears, engaging each one on the way down. In addition to adding engine braking, which helps settle the suspension during decel, this also means I can get back on the throttle at any point instantly because a gear is always engaged. The clutch is just used momentarily between gears, not held.
When coming to a stop, I ride 2nd gear to a near stop then shift into neutral. |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,130
Drives: 2016 Solid Redz
Rep Power: 247 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
that's way it should always be done in a manual. If youth driving an automatic, u don't throw her into neutral @35mph when your about to stop. U need engine braking to keep it in the right rpm range in case u need to gitty up & go
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) | |
|
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Irvine
Posts: 1,682
Drives: 13 PW sport 6mt
Rep Power: 20 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
If you want to do it manually then you need to match the engine speed with your drive shaft speed; at about 20 mph, 2nd gear should be somewhere in the vicinity of 2500-2800rpm (i can't remember because I do it manually). Either way you should never feel a jolt while driving if you are in the right gear for your speed. When driving any car I like to emphasize smoothness in any transition (gear change, lane change, turns, brake, acceleration) and speed will come. Sorry if someone already said this, I didn't take the time to read the rest of the thread but I DID notice some troll posts to, what I think, is a legitimate question.
__________________
35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Auto downshifting. WTF?! | Dav | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 28 | 07-26-2012 11:19 AM |
| Opinions on downshifting | SPOHN | Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip | 32 | 03-07-2012 10:56 PM |
| Apparent Rear Hatch Opening Technique Discrepancy | OldGuy | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 6 | 03-27-2011 07:09 PM |
| downshifting | supraman626 | Engine & Drivetrain | 7 | 12-28-2009 01:53 PM |
| Is my M/T technique ok? | Z-WHIZ | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 21 | 10-22-2009 11:40 PM |