Battery slowly died and 3 codes came up

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

The intakes are most probably NOT the problem - removing them would be a waste of time.

My guess is that the battery is shot.

First thing I'd do is put a VOM across the battery terminals and check the voltage - should be around 12 and a half volts if the battery is in decent shape. Then measure the voltage across the battery terminals when you can get the engine started. If voltage climbs to 14 VDC or so, the battery is probably bad. If volts stay the same or drop, the alternator/charging circuit has a problem.

Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free.

The FSM will have diagnostic procedures.

Originally Posted by brandad_1

Changed the battery and volts read 12 and don’t drop, problem is now is I’m still getting codes p010c ,which are for the maf sensors (and I just bought new ones so idk why the code is still being thrown up) and the p0444 which the code reader says is the “evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit open.” Thing is now when I turn the car on sometimes and I try to rev it, it sounds like the engine is about to die and the rpms drop.
It also still idles at 1k rpms and stutters and cant pass 2.5k.

Originally Posted by DrBacon

What does the in-cabin voltage gauge read when the car is running? Also, I'd have to agree with Spooler and think it's something related to the belt, too many symptoms with the same common factor.

Originally Posted by brandad_1

It reads a constant 12v no dips or anything. And I also agree that it would make most sense because I replaced the maf sensors to address the p010c code but after erasing it and restarting the car the came back up. But then again wouldn’t I be getting a different code if it was a bad alternator or belt?

Originally Posted by DrBacon

If it's reading 12volts while running I'd guess your alternator is probably bad (which would explain the heavy steering if the alternator pulley is locking up putting drag on the engine/belt), it should be closer to 14volts. I would ignore all codes until the voltage is corrected, electronics can be sensitive to that and cause false codes.

Originally Posted by brandad_1

Damn alright I’ll try to get the voltage right and see what’s up afterwards. I’ll update again tomorrow once I tinker around a little bit.