Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z
The intakes are most probably NOT the problem - removing them would be a waste of time.
My guess is that the battery is shot.
First thing I'd do is put a VOM across the battery terminals and check the voltage - should be around 12 and a half volts if the battery is in decent shape. Then measure the voltage across the battery terminals when you can get the engine started. If voltage climbs to 14 VDC or so, the battery is probably bad. If volts stay the same or drop, the alternator/charging circuit has a problem.
Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free.
The FSM will have diagnostic procedures.
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Changed the battery and volts read 12 and don’t drop, problem is now is I’m still getting codes p010c ,which are for the maf sensors (and I just bought new ones so idk why the code is still being thrown up) and the p0444 which the code reader says is the “evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit open.” Thing is now when I turn the car on sometimes and I try to rev it, it sounds like the engine is about to die and the rpms drop.
It also still idles at 1k rpms and stutters and cant pass 2.5k.