Car will not start after tuning

ShadowJester6

Neat. Those would appear to be the cruise control and clutch pedal switches that I had tested. Never thought about the adjustment for them. The tests I did should have ruled them out as the problem. I've got nothing to lose playing with them some more though. I'll report back with any findings.

Spooler

You need to fully depress the clutch pedal to make sure it is closing the push pin all the way. If it is a little bit off, It will not make the contact close. Only then will the clutch inhibitor relay work properly if our car even has one. The older Nissans have for years. Fixed a many...

ShadowJester6

I haven't had time to toy with them yet. The pedal is definitely actuating the switch fully though. Through the tuning software, you can watch the ECU "seeing" that the switch is being triggered open and closed.

Rusty

The one for the cruise control on my Z needs adjusted. My cruise is hit or miss. Depends on how I bring the clutch pedal back.

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ShadowJester6

I will definitely play with both of the switches.

Thanks a bunch of the feedback guys. Keep it coming please!

ShadowJester6

Maybe a visual aide can bring this problem back from the dead.

Still the same issues as before. To recap, I've replaced and/or tested the following: new battery, clutch interlock switch, neutral safety switch, wheel lock (non-existent), new starter control relay, starter tested SAT at auto store, and a new start button. I have tried my usual, and back up, key FOB, both in and out of the key slot and with a new battery. All fuses and relays have been good. I replaced the IPDM E/R fuse box with a secondhand replacement with no change, though I cannot guarantee it was in working order before being installed. I've tested bits of wiring looms and ground points as indicated in the diagrams. Everything I have tested has been good with the exception of the 12V leaving the IPDM E/R fuse box to the starter "S" terminal. Obviously if I had that, I wouldn't be here now. I've traced the 12V all the way to the starter control relay in the IPDM E/R fuse box. It would seem the relay is not receiving the control signal to close the relay. Unfortunately, Nissan doesn't want anyone to know what goes on in their magic boxes, so I'm at a loss where I can trace the control signal to. I've broken open the secondhand fuse box for science and it's more of a computer than a fuse box. So theoretically, the control signal could be getting lost absolutely anywhere in the car and with my current equipment, I have no way of tracing it any farther.

I've toyed with the idea of just jumping the starter control relay or even the starter/solenoid itself, but I have a feeling it's going to end up destroying even more if the car starts when the car is under the impression it is not "supposed" to be starting.

Any techie gurus out there know enough about the wiring to help trace where the starter control relay is losing is control control signal, stopping the relay from closing? I'm pretty over replacing every bit of this car one piece at a time at this point. Anyone want a free paperweight in the shape of a car?

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