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Car will not start after tuning

I went back to the beginning and re-read everything and I have a few thoughts: • If you are in the car and don't depress the clutch, press the Start

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Old 05-10-2021, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I went back to the beginning and re-read everything and I have a few thoughts:

• If you are in the car and don't depress the clutch, press the Start button once.
• Do you hear the steering wheel unlock?
• Does the start button illuminate "Acc" ?

If the steering wheel doesn't unlock, the engine will not start or turnover.


• When troubleshooting unusual problems (like this one!) you can't assume anything. I think you should check for 12v at the "S Connector" wire at the starter and at the IPDM/ER, when someone pushes the start button.

If you want to get the engine to crank over to verify the starter, you could:
• Remove the fuel pump fuse (in IPDM/ER)
• At the starter, disconnect the small wire on the S terminal
• Use a long wire (ideally with a 5-10 amp fuse inline with it) to run from the battery positive terminal and touch the S terminal on the starter.
• Engine should crank only for as long as you are touching the S terminal with 12v.
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicVQ View Post
I went back to the beginning and re-read everything and I have a few thoughts:

• If you are in the car and don't depress the clutch, press the Start button once.
• Do you hear the steering wheel unlock?
• Does the start button illuminate "Acc" ?

If the steering wheel doesn't unlock, the engine will not start or turnover.


• When troubleshooting unusual problems (like this one!) you can't assume anything. I think you should check for 12v at the "S Connector" wire at the starter and at the IPDM/ER, when someone pushes the start button.

If you want to get the engine to crank over to verify the starter, you could:
• Remove the fuel pump fuse (in IPDM/ER)
• At the starter, disconnect the small wire on the S terminal
• Use a long wire (ideally with a 5-10 amp fuse inline with it) to run from the battery positive terminal and touch the S terminal on the starter.
• Engine should crank only for as long as you are touching the S terminal with 12v.
Thanks for the response.

To address your first thought, no. There is no steering wheel lock at all. Nissan stopped installing them in 2011. I have confirmed that there is no module at all under the steering wheel, the fuse is non-existent in the IPDM E/R fuse box, and the wheel does not lock at all.

For your next thought, the start button works as normal. Both the old and new one. If the clutch pedal is NOT depressed, and the start button pressed once, it turns "acc" on". Press a second time and it shifts to "on". A third press turns the car off. Everything in that respect appears perfectly operational. When the clutch pedal IS depressed, it hops across "acc" for less than a second and stops on "on". This is usually where the starter would be engaged and the engine turns over. But as far as the start button goes, everything tests normal.

I have assumed nothing. You may have misread previous posts. I have tested for the 12V going to the starter "S" terminal at multiple locations. It is GOOD going INTO the starter control relay. I have tested pin 80 LEAVING the IPDM E/R (because I can't test the relay directly while it is installed). No 12V.

I appreciate your input for jumping the starter. But as stated, the starter has been tested and is fully operational. It is just receiving the signal to allow it to turn over. I also stated in my last post I COULD jump the starter, but due to all the electrical fuckery going on in this car, I wouldn't be surprised if more stuff breaks tryign out that test.
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