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Originally Posted by Blackcrimzon The coolant lines would get really hard when the car was running and I thought that it had something to do with why the temperature kept
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#1 (permalink) | |
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#2 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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With the engine cold. Remove the radiator cap. Start the engine. Put your palm over the radiator fill hole. See if it feels like a pulse with pressure behind it. Have someone else rev the engine and see if the pressure increases. Take note of your coolant level. When you start the engine. It should drop down if it needs it. Leave the cap off, watch to see when the thermostat opens. Note the coolant level. Once the thermostat opens. Put your palm back over the hole to see if you feel any difference. Once you do this add coolant as needed. Put cap back on. Watch the temp gauge to see if if still pegs out. I'm thinking you have air in the system. The idiot mechanic who removed the cap and the coolant hit the ceiling did so with a hot motor.
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#3 (permalink) |
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The only real way to confirm a head gasket failure is to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. All the test listed above are signs of a head gasket failure but the only true way to confirm in hydrocarbon test. Very easy to use. If you google "Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit" it will bring you to an Amazon link. only 36.99
If your in CAL i would take the car to See at specialtyZ. I've been in the performance industry for a long time and there are very few shops i would recommend. Seb won't disappoint you. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo 750whp/700ft.lbs |
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