How to accelerate CSC failure

[greenlawnraci]

I don't know that accelerate is the right word, but I want to make sure it is cared for under warranty. Yes, I know that I'm better to spend some money and buy an aftermarket one. However I'd at least like to start with a brand new one on Nissan's dime given that failure is immanent:

My car only has 39K on it., and rarely gets driven. Warranty (factory extended) goes until April.

Slave cylinder is STARTING to fail, just like my other nine Nissans. Loses pressure sometimes, if you hit the pedal a few times it gets pressure again. I’m fully confident it will fail again, just like all of my other Nissans.

Called the dealership today, they confirmed that it has to be in total failure to replace. Last time this happened I’d drive right to the dealership…..but enough driving and usage of the clutch on the way to the shop would give it sufficient pressure and the dealer then could not replicate the issue.

Any advice or ideas for how to show/put it into total failure? Last time I had to wait until it was really bad, pull over immediately, and call a tow truck. Unfortunately I don’t drive enough to see that happening before April.

[Rusty]

Interduce air into the clutch line. Then squirt some brake fluid into the bell housing.

[viiv]

Lol. Pump the clutch repeatedly to overheat it? Not sure if it would do it, though to increase your odds, make sure to do it on the hottest day possible. Like 100+ reps in a row?

Hope you didn't upgrade your brake fluid and still have the stock DOT 3 from the factory.

[filip00]

Do a few clutch drop accelerated runs.

[vtec to vvel]

There is no way to purposely speed up the process, unless you keep driving.

If you're so confident on it failing (which you are correct), why replace with OEM? There's really no point in utilizing the Nissan Warranty to replace with OEM parts which will fail again anyway, unless you plan on selling right after, but even this route, no point in fixing since (hopefully) the dealership is smart enough to inspect this amongst other things.

I suppose the other option in utilizing the Nissan Warranty is for the labor aspect and providing them with the aftermarket parts, which they won't warranty due to being non-OEM parts.

[greenlawnraci]

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

There is no way to purposely speed up the process, unless you keep driving.

If you're so confident on it failing (which you are correct), why replace with OEM? There's really no point in utilizing the Nissan Warranty to replace with OEM parts which will fail again anyway, unless you plan on selling right after, but even this route, no point in fixing since (hopefully) the dealership is smart enough to inspect this amongst other things.

I suppose the other option in utilizing the Nissan Warranty is for the labor aspect and providing them with the aftermarket parts, which they won't warranty due to being non-OEM parts.

Very good point that the new CSC will fail, however this meets my needs for now:

I drive the car a few thousand miles per year.

Looks like the OEM one will make it 40K.

If I can get another 40K out of the new one at no cost.....I'm deferring a big expense for many years.

[Rusty]

I still have the oem one in my 2011 Z with 55,000 miles on it.

[JARblue]

Jam the clutch pedal into the floorboard as far as you can every shift (or repeatedly in the driveway in your case). That will help kill the seals and introduce contaminants in both the master and the slave.

[ZontheRocks]

A few green light, clutch drops should help accelerate the deterioration of the CSC.

Alternatively, remove some of the fluid from the reservoir and run it dry.

[greenlawnraci]

Originally Posted by JARblue

Jam the clutch pedal into the floorboard as far as you can every shift (or repeatedly in the driveway in your case). That will help kill the seals and introduce contaminants in both the master and the slave.

Dude, I’m rolling!

For the record, it sits in the garage and off the driveway. I wanted a Z in the 90s, some 20 years later I bought a 2014 with 20,000 miles on it. But I have two kids, and I need the space in my truck almost every day even if it’s just me. I don’t drive much in general, since I work from home. So, it’s really hard to get any miles on it.

I drove it about 5 miles tonight to cheerleading practice, it started to get a little soft but after a few more shifts it was back to normal. Maybe it’s time to go.

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by Rusty

I still have the oem one in my 2011 Z with 55,000 miles on it.

I don't think there's a rhyme or reason on if or when the CSC fails. Some people get it early on, some people get it later, and some never get it at all. I had a '07 350Z that was prone to the CSC failure, but mine never did and it was the original (bought her with 5k miles and traded her at close to 90k and held up strong).

Originally Posted by greenlawnraci

Dude, I’m rolling!

For the record, it sits in the garage and off the driveway. I wanted a Z in the 90s, some 20 years later I bought a 2014 with 20,000 miles on it. But I have two kids, and I need the space in my truck almost every day even if it’s just me. I don’t drive much in general, since I work from home. So, it’s really hard to get any miles on it.

I drove it about 5 miles tonight to cheerleading practice, it started to get a little soft but after a few more shifts it was back to normal. Maybe it’s time to go.

So your clutch pedal goes soft and then back to normal after a few shifts? I have the opposite issue. My clutch starts off normal and then pressure gets softer as the engine warms up and then have to top off the clutch fluid. I'm just trying to find the time to replace everything, but in the meantime, I just drive her once every 2 weeks to get the oil running and to avoid flat spots on the tires. I guess we are of the lucky few where we get a warning that the CSC is on its way out.

[greenlawnraci]

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I don't think there's a rhyme or reason on if or when the CSC fails. Some people get it early on, some people get it later, and some never get it at all. I had a '07 350Z that was prone to the CSC failure, but mine never did and it was the original (bought her with 5k miles and traded her at close to 90k and held up strong).



So your clutch pedal goes soft and then back to normal after a few shifts? I have the opposite issue. My clutch starts off normal and then pressure gets softer as the engine warms up and then have to top off the clutch fluid. I'm just trying to find the time to replace everything, but in the meantime, I just drive her once every 2 weeks to get the oil running and to avoid flat spots on the tires. I guess we are of the lucky few where we get a warning that the CSC is on its way out.

That is exactly what my symptoms are, with all three of my Nissan’s that have had a failed CSC. Two of them left me stranded when it finally went to the floor.

[THE BULL]

There is a trace of failure and is in the composition of the clutch reservoir line. This line deteriorates and starts to introduce that goo into the system.

If this line is replaced(folks use motorcycle hoses) it will increase the chances of longevity by a lot.

Remove some fluid out of the reservoir and save it.
Over work the pedal on low fluid and it will do it

HOWEVER

Any of these advices have the possibility to affect the MC which if not covered it might fail faster than the CSC.

So technically for total failure you cant just have a dead pedal.
Just a dead pedal would technically mean MC only and they might deny it.

Depending on the dealer it might need to be a non working CSC with leaking fluid alone or a failed CSC and MC at the same time.

Many dealerships treat warranties as individual replacement since it doesnt pay the tech **** and they definetly dont go around recommending additional stuff that the customer wont pay for.

Being that the MC receives all of the work and only the MC at fault for CSC failure due to introducing debris into the system it means that the MC is usually the one to fail first and it might be your problem.

Unless there is some moist areas by the transmission your issue is a failing MC and not CSC.