Yes i know there is a lot of threads out there in regards to oil coolers but some threads are a bit old. Real simple question, i like to have
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11-06-2017, 02:54 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Cooler Question
Yes i know there is a lot of threads out there in regards to oil coolers but some threads are a bit old. Real simple question, i like to have some spirited drives , and my z is mainly for DD use. 25 row or 34 row. I live in california and with the ac on in summer it gets up to 220-240ish.
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11-06-2017, 08:33 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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34 row and call it a day. No use in second guessing yourself later on.
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11-07-2017, 03:41 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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I’m torn on this one. SoCal stays warmer than here in nor cal and f I absolutely did not track I think I would have went 25 row. For track I need 34 but wish it would get a little warmer for DD. I do run a very high grade full synth but it’s still a bit less than ideal temp for DD, probably need to get off my lazy *** and make my block off plate.
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11-07-2017, 04:08 AM | #5 (permalink) | |
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11-07-2017, 12:42 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Based on your experiences (240 max) I'd say either none (spend money elsewhere) to 25 row.
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11-07-2017, 05:35 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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The ECU is just starting to pull timing at that temp.
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11-11-2017, 09:19 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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thanks for everyones suggestions, i think i might go with the 25 row. My question with the 34 row is , would it still get up to a good temp just for dd use. The thermostatic plate will still allow to get up to 180ish ?
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11-11-2017, 09:35 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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I have a 34 row cooler and live in southwest Pa. We only get about 6 to 10 days over 90F during the summer. 30 minute drive at 70 mph. It will get over 180F. Oil only needs to get over 110F. At that temp. Any moisture in the oil will start to evaporate. By the time the oil gets to 160F. All of the moisture is gone. In the winter. You can put a shield over some of the rows on the cooler until you get the temp you want. I use duct tape. You living in Cali, and seeing higher weather temps, faster speed limits, and heavier traffic. Go for the 34 row. This way, you won't be second guessing your that you should have gotten the 34 row to begin with.
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11-11-2017, 10:26 PM | #12 (permalink) | |
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11-11-2017, 11:22 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Yeah, I have used duct tape a time or 3 . I used it until I found out how much of the cooler I needed to block off. Then made a block off plate out of some thin aluminum. The cooler kit to get if you have a newer Z with the poor factory cooler is the FI. It has all the parts to bypass the factory cooler. If you don't have the factory cooler. The Z1 kit is a good choice too. Which is what I have.
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11-11-2017, 11:42 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
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Not sure what the FI kit includes, but all you need on hand to remove the OEM oil cooler is two caps/clamps (I found some at the autoparts store that fit) for the coolant lines and an '09-'11 oil filter stud. All in, <$20 worth of stuff IIRC.
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11-16-2017, 09:46 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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I was under the impression the factory cooler stays in place and the new color is plumbed directly through the thermostatic adaptor plate that affixes to the OE oil filter housing.
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