Cooler Question

Rusty

The ECU is just starting to pull timing at that temp.

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zdo5915

I run a 25 row on my daily driver, on those 110+ days driving for 30 mins my temps would not pass 185F. I dont track so take that into account.

nosam1g

thanks for everyones suggestions, i think i might go with the 25 row. My question with the 34 row is , would it still get up to a good temp just for dd use. The thermostatic plate will still allow to get up to 180ish ?

Rusty

I have a 34 row cooler and live in southwest Pa. We only get about 6 to 10 days over 90F during the summer. 30 minute drive at 70 mph. It will get over 180F. Oil only needs to get over 110F. At that temp. Any moisture in the oil will start to evaporate. By the time the oil gets to 160F. All of the moisture is gone. In the winter. You can put a shield over some of the rows on the cooler until you get the temp you want. I use duct tape. You living in Cali, and seeing higher weather temps, faster speed limits, and heavier traffic. Go for the 34 row. This way, you won't be second guessing your that you should have gotten the 34 row to begin with.

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nosam1g

so you literally got duct tape , and put it on ur cooler ? im leaning towards the 34 row now, but since its winter , im waiting on a good xmas sale hopefully

Rusty

Yeah, I have used duct tape a time or 3 . I used it until I found out how much of the cooler I needed to block off. Then made a block off plate out of some thin aluminum. The cooler kit to get if you have a newer Z with the poor factory cooler is the FI. It has all the parts to bypass the factory cooler. If you don't have the factory cooler. The Z1 kit is a good choice too. Which is what I have.

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Jayhovah

Not sure what the FI kit includes, but all you need on hand to remove the OEM oil cooler is two caps/clamps (I found some at the autoparts store that fit) for the coolant lines and an '09-'11 oil filter stud. All in, <$20 worth of stuff IIRC.

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nosam1g

by any chance do you have any pictures of that ?