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Cooler Question

Originally Posted by Tractionless I was under the impression the factory cooler stays in place and the new color is plumbed directly through the thermostatic adaptor plate that affixes to

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Old 11-16-2017, 10:31 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tractionless View Post
I was under the impression the factory cooler stays in place and the new color is plumbed directly through the thermostatic adaptor plate that affixes to the OE oil filter housing.
OEM cooler uses a sandwich plate too (though in this case, the sandwich plate itself is the cooler). You can add your new thermostatic plate directly to the OEM cooler-sandwich, or you can delete the OEM cooler and just use your new plate. Seen people do it both ways.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Gotcha. Seems the most efficient way is just to add on to oe.
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I removed my stock oil cooler yesterday and deleted the coolant lines that feed it as part of my FI oil cooler install. It's fairly simple to do
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Old 11-23-2017, 06:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Yeah, I have used duct tape a time or 3 . I used it until I found out how much of the cooler I needed to block off. Then made a block off plate out of some thin aluminum. The cooler kit to get if you have a newer Z with the poor factory cooler is the FI. It has all the parts to bypass the factory cooler. If you don't have the factory cooler. The Z1 kit is a good choice too. Which is what I have.
by any chance do you have any pictures of that ?
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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by any chance do you have any pictures of that ?
Sorry, no. All I did was to cut a piece of thin aluminum to fit over the cooler, and tape it into place. you can get the aluminum at a hardware store.
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:47 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Just get a 34 row. If you live in a state where it gets colder during the winter, then you should get a 25 row.
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