Quaife LSD Headache

iDaRkkO

I have an issue with a Quaife LSD.

This LSD is for a sport model with stock vLSD swap(I have the base non sport model with open Diff). I got a good deal on it used so i figured just get a new stub axle for the driver side and call it a day. Looks like thats not that case.

The passenger side is what im having the problem with.

The diff seems like it holds it then when i drive it, the stub axle slips out of place like nothing is holding it in there.

(I did double check to see if the retaining ring was there and it was.)

Heres some pics to see what i mean.

This is the stub axle i have (from open diff)



When the stub is first pushed in/when it was first installed.



After i move any distance, it pulls the stub out about a 1/4 of a inch if not more.



This is how far the stub axle slides out till it seems to really lock




Should i get a different sub axle for this? i have done new bearings and seals and all that and just need to get this one part to lock in place and my diff setup will be complete.

Any help would be great!

Thanks!

TBatt

Call the guys at Z1.

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B&W_Evader

Can't see your pictures but I have a picture inside a OS Giken LSD. See the 6th post.

DIY - Limited Slip Differential Install

Also, I believe you don't have to worry about your stub shafts. They should already be the short ones you need if your Non-Sport open diff.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

jchammond

Dang; something not right/ mine clicked in place on my base Auto unit...checked all specs after installation w/new bearings & was amazed how it turned out.


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B&W_Evader

Awesome! Cudos for doing the job yourself!

Don't forget to check backlash and pinion spacing with the indicator grease to make sure the gears are meshing correctly. You'll chew up your gears real quick if it's not right.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

jchammond

Yep,done all that....even ran some break-in oil through it...drained & filled after 1k miles.
And after 5k miles...Drained & filled with the Blue Stuff (Motul 75-140)

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jchammond

After looking at your pic's again...i'm gonna go out & look at mine.
I do remember that 1 side clicked tighter than the other,,,but they both held well.

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iDaRkkO

So I had to get a different Stub shaft and cut it down to get it to work. once i did that i decided to just do a complete tear down and check over everything.

Backlash is at a minimum now and its really nice. there was definitely a backlash issue from the first time i rebuilt it.

New stubs hold like a champ.

Oddly enough the diff doesnt seem to lock and i now have a christmas tree in my dash. Heard it might be a speed sensor issue so i replaced them as well.

Going to grab an obd2 reader and see whats going on.



The build continues

jchammond

om my Quaife....when you rotate the driveshaft,both wheels tirn the same direction....someone can hold one tire & you can turn the other one with some effort...that's the helical gears working inside.
Now,with all the lights going on-these cars are equipped with a bi-directional abs system/with help from speed sensors & a yaw sensor (g-force) it will actually reduce power & apply brakes to which ever wheels needed to keep it straight.

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Bswanny

If you have a VSLD, can you use the shorter shifts instead of cutting the long ones?

Spooler

You will want to buy new ones. Z1 motorsports sells them.

Bswanny

Yes but which ones for a 2014? Can I just buy to LH replacements for the VLSD oem and use them? The LH is shorter than the right to my knowledge

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Rusty

Like Spooler said. Get the stub shaft from Z1. Make sure what type of stub to cv joint bolting you have. Bolted or through bolt with nut.

It the picture. You can see the stock stubs on the left and center. The Z1 stub on the right. Notice the location of the snap ring grooves. This is important. This holds your sub axle in place. If you cut off the stock stub. You run the risk of the stub coming out. The right stub replaces the sub in the center.

Attached Images

axle stub.JPG (755.8 KB, 47 views)

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Spooler

Yeap, why make things complicated. If you buy everything from Z1 they will hook you up to the best of their ability. Mind you, Nissan has done some things that have thrown them for a loop like my car did. Just know that they are the best knowledge because of the volume of upgrades they have done. They still can be thrown a curve ball to them like my car did. I took my car to have the OS Giken 1.5 way installed. I just bought another stub, so I needed 2. Glad I did it because the DSS Pro level axles require Nut and bolt. Not threaded.

Bswanny

Z1 is about $500 more than 3 other retailers selling. Also my last two orders from Z1 they sent the wrong part.

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