S.C. high rpm's

SS_Firehawk

Looking specifically at the supercharger, sizing the pulley appropriately is your best bet. When I had the GTM Twin SC kit, those superchargers had plenty of room to spin higher. I was on the 92mm pulley, the lowest was 84mm, and the max impeller speed is 100,000rpm. If you are spinning too fast, you can always reduce the crank pulley size.

If you take engine rpm x crank diameter x supercharger ratio divided by the supercharger pulley diameter, this will tell you the max impeller speed.

Example: max impeller speed for specs below are 95931rpm.
7500rpm engine
124mm crank pulley
1:9.49 crank ratio
92mm SC pulley

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2011 Nismo#91

I know right, if you want high revs you need lower displacement. You can do it but it's like you can make a van a fast car but why not just get a fast car?

Elmo370z

Thanks for the helpful information, BY how did you like the TSC kit

SS_Firehawk

I loved it. I had a couple pulleys go bad, but there is some info on the forum about how to remedy it. Im sure it can reach 650whp with a built motor. The superchargers were great. My only other beef with the kit itself is the intake pipe gets reduced to snake around the front bumper area.

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Elmo370z

IS there anyway you could fabricate that intake tube

SS_Firehawk

Below iare pics. You can see, it would take some effort to refab the tube, just because it would require relocating other things like the brake fluid reservoir, and possibly hacking the car a bit of fit larger tubes.

http://www.the370z.com/members/ss_fi...rotrex-c30.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/ss_fi...rotrex-c30.jpg

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Jordo!

Okay, I'll be the asshole to say it:

Unless you are prepared for the Z to become your "project car" (i.e., sometimes down for a while, random mysterious problem crops up, will need to datalog and or tune at times on your own or are prepared to learn how to do so, willing/able to work on your car at times), I would just hold off at see what 2016 promises for a new Z, which, with a tiny bit of luck, will be OEM boosted.

Modifying an OEM FI car is WAAAAAAAAAAAY less misery (labor of love?) than turning a NA car into a FI car.

Yes, lots of folks have boosted their Z, and it seems that most have done so with minimal hassle.

Then there's the many horror stories and the folks who have a 2nd car to tool around in, making it less of a burden to turn the DD into an experimental test car.

FI on a Z demands deep pockets (relative to, say, an OEM boosted car or a 4-banger), and carries all the usual risks and issues (as well as the cravings for MORE MORE MORE POWER -- cocaine may be a hell of a drug, but so is WHP), plus a few extra ones given that its NOT an OEM FI car.

That said, if you have experience with turning NA cars into FI cars, deep pockets, a second car, etc ect, by all means, go for it.

If not, given that a TT Z35 is looking less and less like fantasy as more reports surface, I'd seriously consider NOT doing this.

I've been down this road. I learned a lot (really, everything I know) about cars, FI, and tuning from traversing that road, and I don't regret it.

That said, its hard to imagine anyone on here with similar experiences would argue with anything I just noted...

Either way, good luck

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Enjoy it. Destroy it.

Elmo370z

"cocaine is one hell of a drugs and so is WHP!! haha that **** cracked up me!!. Gotta pay to play i guess

Elmo370z

Da*n~

Jordo!

Don't get me wrong; I don't mean to be discouraging.

If you are an old pro / have money to burn / a second car / any 2 of those three, go for it.

If not, but you are determined to play with boost, keep things as simple as possible to start out -- dry sumps and over-driven blowers... that's a more advanced project with far higher costs, more tuning, more experimentation, and greater potential for things to go wrong.

It looked like you might have been thinking along the "experimental test car" lines (which I certainly understand and respect!), but again, unless you can make a solid claim to at leas two on the above list, as a fellow car guy and madman, I strongly advise you to either keep it NA or go with a fairly modest and reliable bolt-on kit at the most and see where you are from there, rather than try for a wild and high revving build, where you may be sailing a lot in fairly uncharted (and rocky) water...

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Enjoy it. Destroy it.

Elmo370z

I have a second car and have time for more R&D with these car for people who have deeper pockets than me. I going back and fourth about S/C the car or building a high revving N/A. I like the keep it Na for the simplicity, but have it SC for power. I like to say i just don't jump off the deep end and hope for the best, I'll do my research when it comes to engine builders and tuners so i only have to do this once. Also i'll have more than enough money if my motor and anything blows in the process. That's why i'm asking alot of question and taking in any feedback so this helps me in building the car that i want. This is a long term project, I have no kids, not in prison (marriage), I live the bachelor lifestyle.