Remove oem oil cooler?

Iammeowwwwww · 08-03-2022, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcosta79

There is enough space, BARELY. I just finished doing this install on my 2012 Nismo so I know how tight it is in there. You have to clock the thermostat so that the fittings are facing towards the rear subframe. Then take the longer of your oil lines and make a note of which one it is as that one will hook up to the fitting closest to the rear subframe. Take the thermostat off the oil cooler, hook up the oil lines, tighten them, and then re-install. It's tight, and it's a PITA, but it's doable. Do yourself a favor and get a 1 inch crescent wrench to tighten the oil lines again once they are on the thermostat, and a 1 inch shallow socket to tighten the thermostat to the oil cooler.

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So I'm also in NorCal and regularly visit Sonoma, Thunderhill and Laguna Seca, I'll actually be back at Laguna in 2 days

.
I've noticed that as I've gotten faster, the hobby has gotten more expensive and the car runs hotter. Who would have thought LOL.

My main question for this thread is if it would be best to keep the oil cooling independent from the coolant? While tracking in 107F, My oil temps would get to 260 in 3 hot laps. I start to cool down, peak at my coolant gauge, and it's 1 dot in the red LOL or from it... I don't remember.

Would this be due to the coolant providing additional cooling to the extremely hot oil? Or is the oil being cooled efficiently, and heated up going through the oem cooler, defeating the purpose of the 34 row?

I can't honestly remember the routing. Is it from the pickup>filter>z1 cooler>oem cooler> engine? Or something else?

Just questions for debate. While I agree that it's a pain working with the filter, I don't mind the extra work for additional cooling.

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