Swift Spec-R springs

Good_Tymes · 08-23-2013, 03:21 PM

Planning on buying these springs this weekend. I want them to (hopefully) look like this or close to it. If someone has any input of what I should buy in order to get these springs goin let me know, thanks. (camber bolts etc?? I just want to take the stuff I buy to the shop and be able to leave with it securely put together lol)

Csprad12 · 08-23-2013, 06:33 PM

i didnt need anything other than the springs

Cbtech · 08-23-2013, 06:51 PM

Camber arms and new toe bolts unless you want to go through back tires every 3-6 months.

synolimit · 08-23-2013, 07:42 PM

Install first, drive a few hundred miles and then go for an alignment. Figure out what you want for your settings. Some people like high numbers and some like low numbers. After you get your numbers then decide or ask again what you should need. For me I won't need arms to go back to stock settings because I want an aggressive street car. But I might need arms to get even more negative camber.

olddudesrule · 08-23-2013, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech

Camber arms and new toe bolts unless you want to go through back tires every 3-6 months.

This was the case for me after the Swift swap. Got the rear camber back into spec. I could live with the front (not adjustable stock anyway), but the rear was a bit much for me. No need to waste tires like that.

synolimit · 08-23-2013, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olddudesrule

This was the case for me after the Swift swap. Got the rear camber back into spec. I could live with the front (not adjustable stock anyway), but the rear was a bit much for me. No need to waste tires like that.

How much was it out? Did you just get a lock out bolt kit? I'm making my own since the bolts can be bought at any auto store for a dollar each and the plates just need cut to the size of the grooves in the sub frame.

DarkJak · 08-24-2013, 01:04 AM

I don't think swift springs will drop the car to that level. It'll be about half an inch higher. (1.25" in front, 1" in rear.

olddudesrule · 08-24-2013, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

How much was it out? Did you just get a lock out bolt kit? I'm making my own since the bolts can be bought at any auto store for a dollar each and the plates just need cut to the size of the grooves in the sub frame.

I didn't measure it like you did (smart move) before I installed adjustable rear arms and toe bolts. That said, when I got to the alignment shop, I was -1.6 left and -0.6 right. After the alignment, I was -1.6/-1.5. The toe was more of an issue at .95/1.20 before, but readjusted back to min spec of .10/.10. I probably aided in the toe mis-adjustment when I installed the toe bolts. I don't think the springs were to blame as much.

synolimit · 08-24-2013, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olddudesrule

I didn't measure it like you did (smart move) before I installed adjustable rear arms and toe bolts. That said, when I got to the alignment shop, I was -1.6 left and -0.6 right. After the alignment, I was -1.6/-1.5. The toe was more of an issue at .95/1.20 before, but readjusted back to min spec of .10/.10. I probably aided in the toe mis-adjustment when I installed the toe bolts. I don't think the springs were to blame as much.

Yeah and the camber was prob like that because the arms could be set anywhere from the factory. Are your bolts eccentric or is it a lockout kit? I'm assuming eccentric because you said you adjusted toe and didn't buy toe arms. I guess adding just a bolt not allowing toe adjustment would not be a good think unless someone lucky that toe would be perfect.

mag_black · 08-26-2013, 10:47 AM

Swift drop. It's close, but it's not as low as your picture

( Click to show/hide )

synolimit · 08-27-2013, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mag_black

Swift drop. It's close, but it's not as low as your picture

( Click to show/hide )

Your car? New springs?

scZdc · 08-31-2013, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Install first, drive a few hundred miles and then go for an alignment. Figure out what you want for your settings. Some people like high numbers and some like low numbers. After you get your numbers then decide or ask again what you should need. For me I won't need arms to go back to stock settings because I want an aggressive street car. But I might need arms to get even more negative camber.

how would you go about determining your settings? is this based on whether you DD your car vs. tracking it?

synolimit · 08-31-2013, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scZdc

how would you go about determining your settings? is this based on whether you DD your car vs. tracking it?

Correct. Ill probably shoot for -2.5 front, -1.5 rear maybe -2 rear. Thats mild aggressive. If you want more stockish you're front at least will be a lot lower and save your tires. I forget but a guy told me after swifts he was in the high -1's. so that's not enough for me but might be ok for you even if its just out of OEM spec.

olddudesrule · 08-31-2013, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Yeah and the camber was prob like that because the arms could be set anywhere from the factory. Are your bolts eccentric or is it a lockout kit? I'm assuming eccentric because you said you adjusted toe and didn't buy toe arms. I guess adding just a bolt not allowing toe adjustment would not be a good think unless someone lucky that toe would be perfect.

Sorry for the delay. Out of town for work. Before installing the adjustable arms, I measured them against the stock arms, and then did the install. I guess my measurement was a bit off. The bolts are eccentric. Based on everything I read here, you really need to do both the adjustable arms (for camber) and the toe bolts (for toe) to get the proper adjustments necessary to get back to factory spec. I toyed with the idea of replacing all three arms in back, but decided it was overkill for my application.

synolimit · 08-31-2013, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olddudesrule

Sorry for the delay. Out of town for work. Before installing the adjustable arms, I measured them against the stock arms, and then did the install. I guess my measurement was a bit off. The bolts are eccentric. Based on everything I read here, you really need to do both the adjustable arms (for camber) and the toe bolts (for toe) to get the proper adjustments necessary to get back to factory spec. I toyed with the idea of replacing all three arms in back, but decided it was overkill for my application.

I really hope I don't have to adjust toe. Installed a lockout kit for the toe and camber bolts and at the moment I'm in spec but springs are still stock.

08-23-2013, 06:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
Csprad12 Base Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Pineville, Louisiana Posts: 223 Drives: 10 blue sport 370z Rep Power: 12	i didnt need anything other than the springs jlo370z likes this.

08-23-2013, 06:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
Cbtech A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,372 Drives: 40th Anniversary Rep Power: 15	Camber arms and new toe bolts unless you want to go through back tires every 3-6 months. Wonka2581 likes this. __________________ Are U in Sacramento or Central Valley California? Click here! Foglight Hardwire in less than 10 minutes! DIY: Automatic VDC off

08-23-2013, 07:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	Install first, drive a few hundred miles and then go for an alignment. Figure out what you want for your settings. Some people like high numbers and some like low numbers. After you get your numbers then decide or ask again what you should need. For me I won't need arms to go back to stock settings because I want an aggressive street car. But I might need arms to get even more negative camber. Driftomodachi and scZdc like this. __________________ 13 370z-

08-24-2013, 01:04 AM	#7 (permalink)
DarkJak A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,390 Drives: 2009 370Z Rep Power: 13448	I don't think swift springs will drop the car to that level. It'll be about half an inch higher. (1.25" in front, 1" in rear. __________________ @stupidtoycars \| My track vids 09 7AT\|MCS 2WNR\|Topgunz Rotrex\|Ecutek (Eugene)\|Maxxis RC1\|Titan-7 TS-5\|OSG LSD\|Rear Mount Derale Oil Cooler (WIP)+25 Trans Cooler\|Fismo\|G-LOC R12/R10\|Zeta III L\|NLR Wing and Splitter\|CJM Pan and Fuel Hat\|Radium Surge Tank\|AP Racing CP9668

08-26-2013, 10:47 AM	#10 (permalink)
mag_black A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 1,400 Drives: 09 370Z MT6 Rep Power: 666	Swift drop. It's close, but it's not as low as your picture ( Click to show/hide ) __________________ fujimura ≠ abbeyRoadCompany ≠ fastIntentions ≠ motordyne ≠ avantGarde ≠ ecutek ≠ nismo ≠ stillen ≠ stoptech ≠ gtm ≠ spl ≠ carbonfiberelement ≠ stance™

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