The Complete SPL Front Suspension

Rusty · 01-14-2014, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn

I honestly dont care about class in autocross since i only go there for the ability to have some fun with some friends, and most of the places local to me arent sanctioned by any organizations.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. Well then. Follow your wallet and heart. LOL My journal should give you an idea on things.

Rangerz · 02-01-2014, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Now reassemble.

1st pic. I had a bolt sticking out of the fender on the right side that was hitting the control arm. I ground that bolt down so that the control arm could move freely.

2nd pic. You will find out now that you can freely put the ball joint out in place.

3rd pic. This is what it looks like finished. Before you tighten anything up. Make sure that the heim joints ARE positioned correctly

Good instructions. Just got mine on this afternoon. Only difference was if you don't lift both front tires off the gound like I did. You will find it much easier to drop the front sway bar in order to get the strut to rlease from the tower. They sure look good

Rusty · 02-01-2014, 09:44 PM

Thanks for the words.

I had both front wheels removed when I did this, and removed the both end links from the sway bar first. It's the stock rubber bushings on the lower control arm not wanting to move that won't allow the coilover to drop out.

Rangerz · 02-01-2014, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Good instructions. Just got mine on this afternoon. Only difference was if you don't lift both front tires off the gound like I did. You will find it much easier to drop the front sway bar in order to get the strut to release from the tower. They sure look good

Also the instructions say to align the hiem joints. The pics with mine were very dark. So just adding a pic to Rusty's showing the aligned joints.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

Rangerz · 02-24-2014, 09:53 PM

Anybody else having the hiem joint rotate out of how they are supposed to be aligned? Seems to only hapen on the driver side. The rear most one. I torqued it down pretty good but! It still moves out of whack a little.

SPOHN · 02-25-2014, 06:04 AM

Mine has been fine. I'm sure it's ok. It's my rear end links I can't get right. They always rotate till they lock out.

Sh0velMan · 02-25-2014, 06:54 AM

Loctite red?

Sh0velMan · 02-25-2014, 06:57 AM

Sorry, Loctite blue. The one you can break loose.

Super Werty · 06-11-2014, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Anybody else having the hiem joint rotate out of how they are supposed to be aligned? Seems to only hapen on the driver side. The rear most one. I torqued it down pretty good but! It still moves out of whack a little.

Did you ever figure this out?

And question for Rusty. Did the shop that pressed out the old bushing also have to press in the new ones? Or do they just slide right into the arm?

Rangerz · 06-11-2014, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

Did you ever figure this out?

And question for Rusty. Did the shop that pressed out the old bushing also have to press in the new ones? Or do they just slide right into the arm?

Nope still happens but, not nearly as much. As part of a pre track weekend I reset the hiem joints takes about 10 min per side and retighten everything. I should probably call SPL and ask but, I haven't. I probably think it is a bigger deal than it really is....you would think the joints would align themselves to their natural location after the suspension moves through it's range of motion a couple of times.

still everyone that has looked at them for my HPDE inspection has commented on how well they are made and how "TRICK" those bad mo fo's are.

Super Werty · 06-11-2014, 08:15 PM

Can you take a picture of it misaligned. Im curious what it looks like

Rangerz · 06-11-2014, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

Can you take a picture of it misaligned. Im curious what it looks like

Yep next time I get the front off the ground I snap a few

Rusty · 06-13-2014, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

Did you ever figure this out?

And question for Rusty. Did the shop that pressed out the old bushing also have to press in the new ones? Or do they just slide right into the arm?

You asking someone who has brain farts. LOL What I can remember, they slid on with little muscle.

Rangerz · 06-22-2014, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

Did you ever figure this out?

And question for Rusty. Did the shop that pressed out the old bushing also have to press in the new ones? Or do they just slide right into the arm?

Just got done checking the suspension and breaks for next weekend track day. Again the hiem joints were out a bit. I re-torqued them down and in fairness the split ring clamp the one nearest the joint could have been tighter. I tightened everything back up about as tight as I dared and marked the arm and the adjustment nut to see if the adjustment nut side or the hiem joint side was the one moving. Here are some pics of how they were before I realigned them.

Driver side Front:

Driver side Rear:

Passenger side:

Super Werty · 06-22-2014, 05:07 PM

That doesnt look right being all twisted in there...weird

02-01-2014, 09:44 PM	#48 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,874 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	Thanks for the words. I had both front wheels removed when I did this, and removed the both end links from the sway bar first. It's the stock rubber bushings on the lower control arm not wanting to move that won't allow the coilover to drop out. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

02-24-2014, 09:53 PM	#50 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 58 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 11	Anybody else having the hiem joint rotate out of how they are supposed to be aligned? Seems to only hapen on the driver side. The rear most one. I torqued it down pretty good but! It still moves out of whack a little. Rusty likes this. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

02-25-2014, 06:04 AM	#51 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Mine has been fine. I'm sure it's ok. It's my rear end links I can't get right. They always rotate till they lock out. __________________

02-25-2014, 06:54 AM	#52 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Loctite red? __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

02-25-2014, 06:57 AM	#53 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Sorry, Loctite blue. The one you can break loose. Rusty likes this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

06-11-2014, 08:15 PM	#56 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 12	Can you take a picture of it misaligned. Im curious what it looks like Rusty likes this. __________________ The Build

06-22-2014, 05:07 PM	#60 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 12	That doesnt look right being all twisted in there...weird Rusty likes this. __________________ The Build Last edited by Super Werty; 06-22-2014 at 05:11 PM.

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