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brake fluid recommendations

FYI PFC665 is the same actual fluid as Castrol SRF but a bit cheaper (per a friend at PFC)

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Old 12-15-2014, 12:39 PM   #121 (permalink)
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FYI PFC665 is the same actual fluid as Castrol SRF but a bit cheaper (per a friend at PFC)
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:49 PM   #122 (permalink)
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FYI PFC665 is the same actual fluid as Castrol SRF but a bit cheaper (per a friend at PFC)
I have heard that as well. Yet, is it not true. Castrol (a marketing company) does not private label for companies other than car manufacturers, but they would not PL their SRF for anyone. Reading the specs for both will add some clarity. The PFC fluid is made by a chemical company in the UK, just like the majority of the performance and racing brands on the market. Regardless, in the 35+ years since SRF was introduced, other options have been introduced that perform better and are more cost-effective.
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:01 PM   #123 (permalink)
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That's interesting. Also, I will highly highly highly recommend PFC 665. Holds up great on track and the other guys at the last DE were jelly of me for having it.
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:40 PM   #124 (permalink)
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I have heard that as well. Yet, is it not true. Castrol (a marketing company) does not private label for companies other than car manufacturers, but they would not PL their SRF for anyone. Reading the specs for both will add some clarity. The PFC fluid is made by a chemical company in the UK, just like the majority of the performance and racing brands on the market. Regardless, in the 35+ years since SRF was introduced, other options have been introduced that perform better and are more cost-effective.
What? WHat fluid are you buying that has a 500+ F WET boiling point. Forget about dry boiling point, all brake fluid will absorb moisture at some point
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:46 AM   #125 (permalink)
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What? WHat fluid are you buying that has a 500+ F WET boiling point. Forget about dry boiling point, all brake fluid will absorb moisture at some point
For daily drivers that don't get the brake fluid flushed often (2 year should be max), then yes. But for enthusiasts who track their cars occasionally, the primary importance is dry boiling point over wet. It takes about 2 years on average for brake fluid to go from "dry" to "wet" (3.7% absorbed moisture), so if we are flushing as often as we should, the wet boiling point hardly matters. This assumes fluid was poured from a freshly opened container and brake bleeding assistance did NOT include a pressure bleeder without a diaphragm.

For information 99.9% of what people will ever need to know about brake fluid, check here: Torque Brake Fluid ABC's

You'll see there that while boiling points are of a primary importance, other factors are also key in choosing the best fluid. My apologies in advance to any chemical engineers reading this as that page is a layman's synopsis, yet a very good one.

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Old 12-23-2014, 04:35 PM   #126 (permalink)
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What? WHat fluid are you buying that has a 500+ F WET boiling point. Forget about dry boiling point, all brake fluid will absorb moisture at some point
Mercury.
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:22 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Unfortunately many bottles are not stored in ideally location or in proper setup. If you crack a bottle and don't use it up, good luck keeping it fresh.

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For daily drivers that don't get the brake fluid flushed often (2 year should be max), then yes. But for enthusiasts who track their cars occasionally, the primary importance is dry boiling point over wet. It takes about 2 years on average for brake fluid to go from "dry" to "wet" (3.7% absorbed moisture), so if we are flushing as often as we should, the wet boiling point hardly matters. This assumes fluid was poured from a freshly opened container and brake bleeding assistance did NOT include a pressure bleeder without a diaphragm.

For information 99.9% of what people will ever need to know about brake fluid, check here: Torque Brake Fluid ABC's

You'll see there that while boiling points are of a primary importance, other factors are also key in choosing the best fluid. My apologies in advance to any chemical engineers reading this as that page is a layman's synopsis, yet a very good one.

Chris
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Old 12-24-2014, 09:18 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Unfortunately many bottles are not stored in ideally location or in proper setup. If you crack a bottle and don't use it up, good luck keeping it fresh.
Yeah, I don't keep them around much longer than a week or two once they're opened. I usually just bleed a whole bottle through the clutch system and two whole bottles through the brake system.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:57 AM   #129 (permalink)
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What is everyone's thoughts on motul 5.1 non silicone base brake fluid for street use?
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:17 AM   #130 (permalink)
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What is everyone's thoughts on motul 5.1 non silicone base brake fluid for street use?
DOT 5.1 has a lower viscosity index, which is helpful with ABS, especially in colder climates. Motul's is good, but nothing special. Like all of their brake fluids, it is a product of "package engineering".
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:20 AM   #131 (permalink)
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What is everyone's thoughts on motul 5.1 non silicone base brake fluid for street use?
Motul 5.1 is perfectly fine for normal street driving. Definitely recommend the RBF600 or something with higher boiling points if you plan to do any repetitive hard braking.
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:18 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Thanks fellas for all the help
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:18 PM   #133 (permalink)
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What is everyone's thoughts on motul 5.1 non silicone base brake fluid for street use?
Just a heads-up. Do not mix silicone with non-silicone. You'll get jelly as the by-product. The 5.1 fluid comes both ways. Make sure of which one you have.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:48 PM   #134 (permalink)
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I"m pretty sure I still have stock brake fluid. Is that no go on that?
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:14 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I"m pretty sure I still have stock brake fluid. Is that no go on that?
Stock brake fluid is non-silicone, cheap DOT4. So you would be ok. Make it easy on yourself. Just get Motul 600 and call it a day.
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