brake fluid recommendations

Tractionless

No votes for ATE Type 200? I've used it in a 2004 Ford Mustang Cobra, '06 Hyundai Sonata, '08 F350, '06 F250, '07 Ducati 1098, '00 GSXR-750, '09 R1, '05 GSXR-750 and now the '10 Z Sport all with great success regarding fade and immediate increased firmness in the brake pedal/level in all application.

Fwiw, I've used RBF 600 in the past and it required frequent bleeds in motorcycles to keep the master cylinder lever consistently firm. In a '05 GSXR-750 with '07 Yamaha R1 master cylinder (Brembo) I had to get a remote handle adjuster as the MC level would get soft during track day sessions (i.e. Fluid getting overheated). Not to mention the RBF600 bottles says to remove and replace it's fluid in your brake system yearly as it absorbs a ton of moisture. I've never had to do that with the ATE fluid.

forgot pw

i use valvoline dot3/4

__________________
temporary newb suit.. i hope

Guyfromthere

Hey people,

Amazon sent me RBF660 instead of 600 and I'm confused if I should use it. Do our cars like this fluid?

JARblue

RBF660 is more expensive with higher dry boiling point than RBF600. Consider it a win

__________________

TreeSemdyZee

Shouldn't be an issue. That's what I just put in my clutch. It's a higher temperature fluid.

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

B&W_Evader

The 660 has higher dry boil point but lower wet boil point. I use the 600 since I only service the brake fluid on pad changes. Figure at least 2/3 of the life is in the wet range.

__________________
|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

Guyfromthere

Mixed opinions on the 660 I see I'd be putting it both in brakes and clutch too, since it's time for HD CSC replacement

JARblue

Unless you're repeatedly threshold braking (you better be on a closed course), you won't notice the difference between the two. Braking performance at the end of the fluid life will be lower with the RBF660 fluid compared to RBF600 due to the lower wet boiling point. Even so, you shouldn't be close to boiling either fluid on the street.

__________________

Tedmeister

I track my car often, every couple of months or so, and I use the Motul 660.
How often should I change the brake fluid if I want to maintain the high boiling point?

Volk Z

I have 2 bottles of Motul I'm not using. That's the top dog for brake fluid....

If you want it you can have for cheap!

__________________
AMUSE * TOMEI * STILLEN * CRAFTSQUARE
RECARO * 3M * TOP SECRET * SLICKCARBON

Volk Z

Just leave me a good rep

__________________
AMUSE * TOMEI * STILLEN * CRAFTSQUARE
RECARO * 3M * TOP SECRET * SLICKCARBON

KE_1508

I've used Motul 660, Torque RT700, and Endless RF650. Car is on DBA Club Spec 4000 rotors paired with Carbotech XP10 F &R. In addition, I recently added the Z1 BMC brace, which I highly recommend for track guys. Even street users can benefit. Biggest difference is how much less of an effort on the pedal you need to use.

The Motul was alright. Not really the most cost effective/durable option in my experience. AZ is hot as hell. It didn't last more than a few months. It lost its "freshness" so to speak in terms of pedal pressure. The Torque RT700 actually was still clear/gold in color a year ago. Had 3 track days on them and when I flushed the system, it was as black as night.

-Keep in mind, the car was used on the street pretty often as well, but lasted atleast 1 year and a half, which IMO is exceptional considering how fluids break down.

Recently, I switched to Endless RF650 and all the small nuances that I was experiencing with the other two fluids were not occurring. I'll most likely be writing my review in the later months to see how it holds up with street use. On track, its phenomenal. No pressure change during sessions and very consistent.

Chris_B

The black color in your brake fluid is primarily rubber from normal seal wear or an indication of aluminum oxide from master cylinder or caliper wear or corrosion. The better brake fluids will hold these impurities in suspension, rather than be allowed to cause additional abrasive wear, which means they are dark when removed. There is nothing in brake fluid itself that will turn black with time or heat, although it can get darker "yellow" with extreme temperature use.

Chris

Tedmeister

So far my fluid is sill clear/yellow in color. I changed it October and have had
three track days. There are only about 2000 miles on the car since then. I am going to Sebring again in April. I was also going to change the clutch fluid to the Motel 660, prior to the event. It is still the original factory fluid, from when I bought the car last May.

KE_1508

It only took one session for the OEM fluid to boil for me. It just can't handle the heat.