Shock replacement parts list?

2string1

This is what I was quoted. I'm putting on new OEM front and rear shocks. 44k miles. Should I change these parts along with the new shocks?? I know 44k is not.

E6110-1EA0C Strut $215.63 1 $215.63
E6111-1EA0C Strut $215.63 1 $215.63
54034-JK00A Spring Seat $32.41 2 $64.82
54050-4GE1A Dust Shield $47.64 2 $95.28
54320-1EA0B Strut Mount $99.50 2 $199.00
E6210-1EA1E Shock Absorber $146.11 2 $292.22
55036-AG001 Lower Seat $25.48 2 $50.96
55050-AL500 Upper Seat $59.32 2 $118.64
55240-1EA0B Bumper $48.77 2 $97.54
55320-JK00A Shock Mount $45.50 2 $91.00
55338-1EA0A Shock Mount Seal $42.54 2 $85.08
56219-AL500 Knuckle Bushing $10.84 2 $21.68

Subtotal: $1,547.48
Handling: $2.95
Total: $1,547.48 + Shipping

JARblue

You certainly don't have to. Why are you even replacing the shocks?

You could upgrade to a better product if you just want to spend money for no reason

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2string1

Better in what way? I'm not looking for a stiffer racing-type ride. Just everyday street driving. I'm putting on Swift Spec-R springs "not coilovers." Just want to lower it a little bit for the look. I figured it would be a good time to put new shocks on. Should I change out the parts that are on that list too? I know people are using Koni Yellows but I just don't want to screw with adjustable shocks.

SeeThruHead

I wouldn’t spend any money on any of that personally. Not at 44k. And not on new shocks either. Just swap your springs. Lots of other things in the car that need that money more!

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Rusty

If you want to throw money away. I'll give you my paypal account.

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Spooler

Just put the springs on. You will need adjustable camber arms and toe bolts for the rear. You will also need FUCA's up front to get your alignment back in spec.

OptionZero

give me $1500 and you can have my OEM nismo springs AND shocks

you need to pay shipping though

alternative, if all you want is a lower ride, pay for my time and ticket and i will cut your springs for you

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2string1

I got it, springs only. Thanks

babyzilla

Are your wheels stock too? If so, if you lower with lowering springs like Swift Spec R, it's just not going to look right. Front will probably be fine, but the rear will be tucked in. You will need either 25mm spacers or 1in adapters. And then you might start rubbing. I may have some experience lol I would suggest going with Swift Spec R with Koni Yellow Shocks. I think that's what I'm going to do.

OptionZero

he doesn't want to modify his car too much

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k67p67

Most of the parts on your list are unnecessary. The Swift springs are going to lower your ride height and stiffen the ride. You could retain your stock struts/shocks but they are only going to last another 20K-30K miles. Might as well replace them. Koni Yellows will run you around the same as a new set of OEM struts/shocks (at the prices you've listed). For that matter, you could just spend an extra $100 or so and pick up a set of Powertrix Sport Street coilovers. That way you can dial in your ride height exactly as you desire. I imagine that would appeal to you since you seem to be all kinds of anal about your Z.

Depending on how much you want to lower your ride height, you may need other supporting mods if you want your tires to last. You may need one or more of the following to remain close to alignment specs: wheel spacers, rear camber arms, rear toe bolts, front upper control arms.

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2017 370Z Nismo Tech 6MT
Work | Motordyne | Powertrix | Swift | Michelin | Takeda | Hotchkis | RJM | Voodoo13 | SPL | SPC | Z1 Motorsports | ZSpeed | Morimoto | Craft Square | Hawk Performance | Kanjo Spec.D | Raceseng

OptionZero

he doesn't wanna modify his car that much!

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k67p67

He's asking about Swift Spec-R springs and new OEM struts/shocks so, at a minimum, we're talking about those components. All the other supporting mods are only necessary if he drops his ride height a certain amount.

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2017 370Z Nismo Tech 6MT
Work | Motordyne | Powertrix | Swift | Michelin | Takeda | Hotchkis | RJM | Voodoo13 | SPL | SPC | Z1 Motorsports | ZSpeed | Morimoto | Craft Square | Hawk Performance | Kanjo Spec.D | Raceseng

2string1

This is the drop the Swift springs give. I'll let them settle for a couple of weeks and have the car aligned. It shouldn't be off to much. Some Z's don't require the rear camber arms at all and some do.. We'll see.
Drop (Front): -1.2 inches
Drop (Rear): -1.0 inches

Red Voodoo

You will be one of the few lucky ones if you can get away without buying new arms. That is, if you are generally concerned with tire wear. My car feels much more planted in the corners than before, but the camber numbers are still out of range even after the alignment. Knowing how expensive decent rubber is for the car, I did not hesitate buying the SPL front and rear pieces, especially at the great cost that I paid 3rd party. It's not a necessity if you are casually putting 3k miles/year on your car (tires will likely age faster than the miles will wear them down), but if the car is a commuter or auto-x/track warrior, then the importance is more stated. As for struts and shocks, I've been impressed with Koni's performance and reliability over the years that I've used them. The dampening adjustability is a bonus. They say the OE shocks work alright with the Swift Spec-R's, but honesty, I don't expect much longevity out of them.

Bottom line is that It's your car. Spend your money as you see fit. So far, your vision has come along nicely.

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