Clarification needed on camber kit requirement

Ralphatron

oh perfect, thanks for the input!

Now, can someone tell me if there's a difference between the z1 arms and the spc arms? It looks like the SPC arms are angled a bit vs the z1 arms being straight, and, correct me if I'm wrong, but these arms can also be used to replace the spring bucket perch for greater toe adjustment?

thanks guys

Ralphatron

I realized this sounded stupid. I guess my question was does the angled design on the spc arms offer more adjustment or is it just aesthetic?

I ended up going with the z1 camber arms, and I learned that traction arms are used for extra toe adjustment but its adjusted with the spring perch eccentric bolts or in the case of true rear struts, the perch can be replaced with toe arms.

And those of you that recognize me from the other thread about sway bars... even though taking off the rear sway helped the darting and tramlining, I'm still getting it quite a bit and can only attribute it to my alignment being badly off. Finally going to get it done this week so I'll report back.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me out!

OptionZero

don't get either.

Get SPL. Millions of threads explaining why, but there are better in every
way

Rear camber is adjusted with an eccentric bolt BUT those have limited adjustment range AND are prone to slippage.

That is why alignment is CORRECTLY done with an adjustable arm - a QUALITY adjustable arm that is easy to adjust for your tech and will lock in place and also not break.

When you have the adjustable arm, you want to ELIMINATE the eccentric bolt entirely with whats called a LOCKOUT kit, which is . . . a bolt that will not spin. That is to ensure that your alignment does not fall out of spec when an eccentric bolts slips

Summary:
Camber is rarely the problem, it's toe. All suspension components work together
Adjust with arm, not bolt
Get the SPL arms (all of the rear ones)
Eliminate the eccentric bolt with the SPL lockout kit

Never worry again

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