Clarification needed on camber kit requirement
 

Whats up guys,

I tried searching for this and found a few threads with similar discussion but it's still extremely unclear to me.

For a Z that's dropped about 1.5 inches in the rear and is showing visible negative camber, I believe will need adjustable camber arms like these Z1 camber arms.

What I'm unclear on is if I ALSO need to purchase aftermarket eccentric bolts like these SPC camber bolts.

The description says something needs to be filed down with a rotary tool, and I find it hard to believe that this much modification is needed just to get the rear camber in spec.

I'm hoping I can get away with JUST the camber arms on a car that's only lowered 1.5 inches instead of ALSO getting the aftermarket eccentric bolts that apparently require permanently removing material from the car but everything I've found when searching doesn't really clarify this.

Wider-range eccentric/cam bolts are not needed when adjustable arms already used.

oh perfect, thanks for the input!

Now, can someone tell me if there's a difference between the z1 arms and the spc arms? It looks like the SPC arms are angled a bit vs the z1 arms being straight, and, correct me if I'm wrong, but these arms can also be used to replace the spring bucket perch for greater toe adjustment?

thanks guys

I realized this sounded stupid. I guess my question was does the angled design on the spc arms offer more adjustment or is it just aesthetic?

I ended up going with the z1 camber arms, and I learned that traction arms are used for extra toe adjustment but its adjusted with the spring perch eccentric bolts or in the case of true rear struts, the perch can be replaced with toe arms.

And those of you that recognize me from the other thread about sway bars... even though taking off the rear sway helped the darting and tramlining, I'm still getting it quite a bit and can only attribute it to my alignment being badly off. Finally going to get it done this week so I'll report back.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me out!

If you are not getting SPL Mid Link, you need to use your toe bolt for adjustments, but it may be useless, because you are changing the adjustment range by lowering the car, so you may reach a point were the minimum value is not what it should be.

To clarify, lets say on stock height it goes from -0.10 to +0.20 degree, after the drop it only goes between 0.15 to 0.45, it is only an example, camber adjustment also changes this range. SPC toe bolt can do the trick but it is prone to slippage, unlike SPL arm.

:iagree:

The SPC arms have been known to break.

I believe he was talking about the spc toe bolts which I need to install because the spl camber arms alone wouldn't bring my camber into spec without throwing the toe out of spec.

Just curious how low you are to have your camber that out of spec that adjusting it would throw the toe out of spec?

I just got the z1 camber arms but haven't put them on yet, my rear height is above 26" from the ground to to center point of the fender wall which imo is nothing crazy. Visible negative camber is almost barely noticeable. Planning to get my alignment done this weekend, but now I'm worried I'll need the aftermarket toe bolts to keep it in spec.

Also, z1 instructions say to put RED threadlocker on which comes with the arms, but that sounds like a terrible idea because wouldn't this prevent future adjustments to be made during alignments? If I use the blue threadlocker during installation instead, will that allow the alignment tech to adjust it as needed and then secure the threads again?

I'm at 27" and rear camber is -2.25. That was the best they could do without screwing up the toe. I want my rear camber less than -2.00. Depending on what you want your rear camber, you may not need the toe bolts.

I can't comment on the Z1 arms, I've got SPL but red loctite doesn't sound like a good idea

I got anti-seize on all of the threads for all of my SPL parts. Nothing worse than having threads galled in aluminum.

damn, isn't 27" not far from stock? I wonder if the difference in our wheels/tires might have something to do with it but I guess we'll see what happens when its up on the rack. I've got my rears at 26.5 right now but have no idea what they will say about getting things in spec with just these aftermarket camber arms. Are you getting uneven tire wear with it at -2.25 ?

Stock is 27.99. I'm running 315/30/20 on the rear. I haven't put many miles on them yet at that camber spec but I'd be more worried about tire wear if the toe were way out of spec.

yeah, toe is the devil when it comes to wear. you're running 1 inch larger wheels than me so that is probably skewing the height comparison a tiny bit. I guess I'll just see what happens when I get it aligned. I'll come back and post before and after specs for comparison. thanks! :tiphat:

I'm going to raise mine 3/8"-1/2" as I get rubbing over certain bumps, especially at high speeds. Yeah, please post your before and after specs. Here's how mine sits now.

I agree, toe is the one to look after, long time, before I get my spl toe arm (with true type coilovers) and toe bolt as well, I ran -2.6 rear camber to get the toe closer to 0.20 in each side, on r888r, they had more wear inside, but I got a full season out of them.