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True Rear vs. Divorced spring (causes damage?)

It's perfectly fine for the Z even hitting track curbs. Now if you had a Porsche GT3 or 4.

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Old 01-24-2020, 07:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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It's perfectly fine for the Z even hitting track curbs. Now if you had a Porsche GT3 or 4.

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Old 01-24-2020, 08:48 AM   #17 (permalink)
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It's perfectly fine for the Z even hitting track curbs. Now if you had a Porsche GT3 or 4.

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Old 01-24-2020, 07:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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True types are way easier to adjust than the divorced type. There aren't any real downsides especially if you are running relatively soft street rates.

If you are building the kit yourself, know that type set-ups will need to run a much softer rate spring in the rear than if you keep the oem set-up. if you are buying a kit off the shelf, that should already be taken into account.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:53 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I have the HKS HIPERMAX IV GT divorced coilovers on my 370z. Very easy install. 1st mod I did to my car.

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Old 02-23-2020, 08:24 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i hate to be the skeptic, but swapping out for a spring bucket-less "true coilover" rear setup sounds like riding the fine line of potential failure.

i ask myself: how many other cars have failed doing this, and why did nissan go this route to begin with? Also, why would i want to delete my spring bucket when A: spl makes spring bucket midlinks, B:many brands make coilovers spec'ed for Zs with spring bucket configurations as standard (you have to go looking for true rears).

i understand that others have tracked their cars on true coilover setups.. but why would the designers spend more money CAD'ing in a second load point rather than reinforce the shock mount locations? it may not snap the metal, but i can imagine that it is adding a tremendous amount of stress..
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Coil-overs and mechanical stress?

Not agreeing or disagreeing, I think Jhill’s reply (#11) in the above thread has merit in supporting rear true type without extra reinforcement. By his explanation, if the rear bottoms up, it’s the rear shock that runs out of travel first, meaning the shock tower is still required to have the strength to bear weight and force of impact.
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Haven't seen anyone report a rear tower failure yet here on the forum. The RC Nismo, the Doren and AM Performance Z's all ran the true type.
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:12 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
True types are way easier to adjust than the divorced type. There aren't any real downsides especially if you are running relatively soft street rates.

If you are building the kit yourself, know that type set-ups will need to run a much softer rate spring in the rear than if you keep the oem set-up. if you are buying a kit off the shelf, that should already be taken into account.
Its my understanding that getting soft springs is the cause of the failure, if you hit something really hard and spring compresses all the way, the mounting point of the car will then take the rest of the force. I've been running fortune 500 coilovers for a while now, with stiffer springs and no issues (14k/12k) iirc.
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Divorced setup = + 25RWHP!!!



True coilovers jus sayin
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:35 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Divorced setup = + 25RWHP!!!



True coilovers jus sayin
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:44 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by scope22 View Post
Its my understanding that getting soft springs is the cause of the failure, if you hit something really hard and spring compresses all the way, the mounting point of the car will then take the rest of the force. I've been running fortune 500 coilovers for a while now, with stiffer springs and no issues (14k/12k) iirc.
It's a combination of spring and valving. The oem set up has to use a stronger spring then a true style because of the leverage of the oem set up. If you use the same spring rate on a true style as the oem. You're over sprung.
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Old 02-25-2020, 07:40 AM   #27 (permalink)
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It's a combination of spring and valving. The oem set up has to use a stronger spring then a true style because of the leverage of the oem set up. If you use the same spring rate on a true style as the oem. You're over sprung.
It is about wheel rate and because of where the spring located you have change the geometry so to speak and the wheel rate will be to high if you run the same springs as in a divorced setup. Ask me how I know!!! I did this with my Z and I had more offs and near offs at the track because I was way over sprung in the rear given a true setup over divorced.
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Old 02-26-2020, 11:03 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Going with Fortune Auto 510's, true setup. Hyperco springs 14K front, 10K rear...my 2016 370Z is a full on track car and I have zero worries of failure. This baby has already been to WGI, VIR, LRP and many others and each have curbs that would rattle your fillings loose...no problems.
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Old 02-26-2020, 11:35 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Going with Fortune Auto 510's, true setup. Hyperco springs 14K front, 10K rear...my 2016 370Z is a full on track car and I have zero worries of failure. This baby has already been to WGI, VIR, LRP and many others and each have curbs that would rattle your fillings loose...no problems.
I don't know if you are running any aero or not as I have a 5" front splitter and a APR gt300 rear wing. I had my FA coilovers rebuilt to 510 with Hyperco 800lbs front and 350 rear springs. I still think your rear springs are too stiff. The should be closer to 7k. You find them to be more compliant going over curbing and bumpy tracks. You may struggle with oversteer if your rear springs are over sprung.

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Old 02-26-2020, 01:26 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodz View Post
I don't know if you are running any aero or not as I have a 5" front splitter and a APR gt300 rear wing. I had my FA coilovers rebuilt to 510 with Hyperco 800lbs front and 350 rear springs. I still think your rear springs are too stiff. The should be closer to 7k. You find them to be more compliant going over curbing and bumpy tracks. You may struggle with oversteer if your rear springs are over sprung.

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No aero at this time...I wouldn't do aero unless I had a wind tunnel to test it in and some professional input...bad or "guess" aero could make things, much, much worse than anything I can do on my own with the suspension.

The current FA 510 setup and spring rate was professionally recommended...I provided a lot of technical detail to FA and they came up with the starting spring rate...we'll see how it goes once things thaw around here...trust me, I won't be heading out onto the track with brandie new coilovers and be whaling on the car...at least not until I know how it responds and reacts.
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