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Originally Posted by k67p67 What are the spacers for? You can change the location of the sub-frame on the body to change how the Z handles. The spacers keep the
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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You can change the location of the sub-frame on the body to change how the Z handles. The spacers keep the sub-frame in it's stock location. Remove the spacers. you change the roll center, CG, and anti-squat.
Here's a link to the install and handling changes. http://www.splparts.com/content/SPL%20SSB%20Z34.pdf
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
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Great write-up!
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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#4 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Nice write up!
![]() How do you like them? Too aggressive? Perfect? I'm looking to change out my rubber ones but am stuck between: 1. Installing Z1 aluminum inserts into the OEM bushes 2. Installing poly bushings 3. Installing aluminum bushings My Z is not my daily, and I have no problem with stiff, but how are the rattles? I'd say my Z is track focused, but it is mostly driven on the street. What are your thoughts? TIA
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 70
Posts: 35,571
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684440 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
![]() Handling wise. The car is planted. Every pivot in my suspension is SPL. There is zero rubbing anywhere. I get some gear whine from the diff. It's just enough to hear it. Couldn't hear any when I just had the SPL solid diff bushings. I don't hear any new rattles. I can hardly hear the radio. I have FI LTH's, 12" resonators, and FI cans. If you don't want to drop the sub-frame. The Z1 inserts are the way to go. You most likely get the same feeling with the Z1 inserts and the poly bushings. The poly bushings. If you go through the trouble of dropping the sub-frame. Go with the SPL's. My experience with installing poly diff bushing vs the SPL diff bushing. The SPL's was easier to install. I imagine it's the same with the sub-frame bushings.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
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Quote:
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Z34 TS | R56 JCW | CS1 EX-L | FB6 Si YouTube: milmast => http://goo.gl/1BsLa9 Instagram: milmast => http://goo.gl/8MWPBK |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
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Hi all, so this is my first post, I'm in the latter stages of a complete rear end rebuild on a 2010 370Z. To cut a long story short, a late night Ebay bid landed me with a very cheap car, too cheap as it turned out. I had it collected unseen and first impressions were good, until I looked underneath. Must of spent 10 years parked on a beach judging from the rust. So first off I had to build a pit to work on it and then I've spent weeks stripping, cleaning and painting the subframe, diff and underbody, I used a small wood chisel to take the layers of rust off the diff it was that bad, I reckon it will be lighter than stock
. Every nut and bolt was a fight and would have been impossible without an induction heater, my best buy ever. Replaced most of the standard suspension bushes, poly diff bushes and solid SPL subframe bushes. I've got Koni shocks, a new brace and disks as well.Until now I've only ever worked on bikes beyond changing the odd brake pad, so this is my first car project and something of a baptism of fire. Tomorrow the subframe goes back in and my question is simple, the SPL instructions for OEM setting says one big and one small spacer at the front and none on the back. But this thread suggests having one small at the back, which does seems more logical as otherwise there are two left over. Which is it? |
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